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What I did today thread...

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Old Dec 22nd, 2016, 22:49   #671
Dancake
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Engine oil, oil filter and fuel filter changed today. Also fitted a magnetic sump plug. Will see if it makes a difference in 6 months.
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Old Dec 23rd, 2016, 12:16   #672
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In 20 years of using metal valve caps, I've never had to cut them off because they'd corroded on.
Greased the remaining ones and replaced two.

(Use metal valve caps, they'll keep your tyre pressures when dust and shyte will wiggle a valve core loose....)
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Old Dec 23rd, 2016, 14:06   #673
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Ive had a private message but I can't reply to it so I've posted it here. Sorry if I've busted some protocol somewhere.....

The V70 I just bought (picking it up on Monday) had no caps on its new tires. The mechanic threw 4 plastic ones on and thought at that time (for the first time, really) if something stronger would be better.

I'll get a price today at the first parts store I pass but I'd love another "UK vs. US price point" in my head.

I know we have bright aluminum caps with a car's logo on them for $20-$25 per set. I'm not considering those.

Weeeeeeelllllll,
I used to be a race tyre engineer (spent ten years designing, making and engineering race car tyres) so I have a HUGE stock of them. A bag of 100 is just a few quid from the supplier ('Rema Tip-Top' if memory serves correct). If you're buying them from Demon Tweeks or even worse, Halfords or similar, expect to pay like £10 a pack of four or more.
(http://www.rema-tiptop.co.uk/product...mables/valves/)

Metal valve caps are essential because the dirt and dust can dislodge the tiny spring that makes up your valve core. A metal cap with a rubber seal in the bottom will hold air even if the valve core fails completely.

Last edited by petey; Dec 23rd, 2016 at 14:17. Reason: add link to supplier...
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Old Dec 23rd, 2016, 20:08   #674
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Quote:
Originally Posted by petey View Post
In 20 years of using metal valve caps, I've never had to cut them off because they'd corroded on.
Greased the remaining ones and replaced two.

(Use metal valve caps, they'll keep your tyre pressures when dust and shyte will wiggle a valve core loose....)

You meant the ones for the tire valve, right?

Reminds me of those cheap chinese ones I got last year. Sweet color was so cool. Until that winter day when I had to check a tire pressure. Doh Surprisingly I got another set from a different seller and these ones don't get stuck?
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Old Dec 24th, 2016, 04:32   #675
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Correct re tyre valve.

The issue is one of salt corrosion I think, it's just a sign I should check my tyre pressures even more often I guess....
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Old Dec 24th, 2016, 23:50   #676
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Today I noticed my driver's side window (left side on US cars) wasn't fully going up in automatic mode. I believe this happens when one disconnects the car battery while the window is not either fully lowered or fully closed. When the window is in the middle somewhere, it gets un-calibrated.

To calibrate it, I put the key in Position II, then lowered the glass (can also have it fully up, it's either way) using the automatic function (no need to keep all the way the button pressed or pulled), then removed the key from ignition and waited perhaps 1-2 minutes until 2 or 3 dash relays would click. Inserted again the key in Position II, and had the window on automatic mode fully closed (or fully lowered depending where it was before reinserting the key).
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Old Dec 25th, 2016, 14:32   #677
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Old Dec 25th, 2016, 17:42   #678
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Quote:
Originally Posted by oragex View Post
Today I noticed my driver's side window (left side on US cars) wasn't fully going up in automatic mode. I believe this happens when one disconnects the car battery while the window is not either fully lowered or fully closed. When the window is in the middle somewhere, it gets un-calibrated.

To calibrate it, I put the key in Position II, then lowered the glass (can also have it fully up, it's either way) using the automatic function (no need to keep all the way the button pressed or pulled), then removed the key from ignition and waited perhaps 1-2 minutes until 2 or 3 dash relays would click. Inserted again the key in Position II, and had the window on automatic mode fully closed (or fully lowered depending where it was before reinserting the key).

I talked victory too early. It didn't work. I see many procedures on internet, some with removing a fuse, not sure which may work.
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Old Dec 25th, 2016, 18:00   #679
ASt85
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Quote:
Originally Posted by oragex View Post
I talked victory too early. It didn't work. I see many procedures on internet, some with removing a fuse, not sure which may work.
It might be worth trying a "cold reset" i.e. turn ign off allow 20 minutes, then disconnect the battery.
****Short the +ve and -ve cables for a few seconds to dump all memory*** (most important in my experience!)

Then with the key in position II, reconnect the battery and re-calibrate i.e. windows full up and down, heater fan from full off to full on then back to full off - headlight elevation from full down to full up & back to full down & etc.

The process usually fixes most simple problems with the windows/ fan/ & or headlights etc.
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Last edited by ASt85; Dec 25th, 2016 at 18:16.
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Old Jan 1st, 2017, 17:59   #680
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I Cloned My 2002 D5 ECM ECU with a cheap one I got off ebay last year , now I have done this, The original one will never play up,
My DIM Did play up a couple of months ago, That I fixed ,all ok
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