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440SI Ignition Capacitor/Condenser – Weak Spark

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Old Dec 28th, 2020, 19:13   #1
Brooklyn440
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Default 440SI Ignition Capacitor/Condenser – Weak Spark

Our 440 is cranking over but failing to start. This is a progressive problem, which has got worse over time. Initially by cranking over the engine and depressing the accelerator it would start, but at times ran roughly. The engine is as follows:

• Fenix 3 computer/engine management
• B18U engine, 1.8 litre single point injection 200/203

Using an in-line spark plug tester there seems to be a weak spark. I have replaced the ignition control unit including base unit and primary/secondary coils. I have also changed the ignition leads, the flywheel position sensor and the spark plugs. I have a new distributor cap and rotor arm on order.
When changing out the ignition unit I discovered at the bottom of it the black capacitor/condenser shown in the attached photograph.


The following is written on this capacitor:
FACON
220μF
DC 2635F9V
16V
Made in France

I am somewhat surprised that this capacitor is present since with electronic ignition I thought there was no longer a need for a capacitor/condenser to prevent contact breaker points arcing and becoming damaged. However, since this capacitor is present I assume it has a useful purpose -does anyone know what the function is for this capacitor ? Potentially it might help boost the spark and since I know that capacitors tend to deteriorate over time, I was thinking to replace it. However, finding a 220μF ignition capacitor is proving to be difficult.

An Intermotor condenser 35130 seems to have been used on the 240 and 240 but this capacitor seems only to have capacitance of 0,25 ΅F which is much lower. Hence any advice on where to buy a suitable 220μF ignition capacitor would be much appreciated ?
If anyone from the symptoms described above can make suggestions as to what the fault might be that would be much appreciated. I have interrogated the diagnostic unit and for position 2 returned a no fault 1 1 1. I am not sure if fault codes would appear if the car does not start – can anyone advise ?
Many thanks,
Martin
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Old Dec 28th, 2020, 20:18   #2
dcw
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I can't tell you the exact function the capacitor carries out but I can confirm it is a standard part of the ignition unit set-up.

I have a spare one here you'd be welcome to try if you like - it is part of what, as far as I know, is a fully working ignition unit.

If there was a fault in the ignition system I would expect it to throw up an error code on port 2 of the diagnostics. My first thoughts on that front were the flywheel sensor, which I note you have changed, and the MAP sensor - that is assuming the B18U has one; sorry, it isn't one of the engines that I know!!.

Thinking in terms of eliminating the obvious - and in no way wishing to be rude or imply you are silly or anything, but I know myself how easy it can be to overlook the simple things - what state is your battery in? Also, is your air filter clean and not clogged? You say this appears to be a problem that is gradually getting worse, and hence a failing battery came to mind. Have you put a voltmeter across it and checked its charging rate etc?

If you'd like to try the capacitor though just drop me a PM with your address and I'll send it up to you. Won't cost you anything so might at least be worth a try?

All the best

David
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Old Dec 29th, 2020, 17:49   #3
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Hi David,
It is extremely kind of you to offer to post me a capacitor. If no one can advise a part number/specification for a modern replacement capacitor I will take you up on your offer. In general, I hope these capacitors are still available or else I guess we will all have a problem in a few years’ time.

The battery is fairly new and I have kept it charged up when for the various attempts I have made to get the car running. Since it is cold at the moment I plan to try with another battery and jump leads at my next attempt. I have a new air filter and will install this when I try again when hopefully I will have received a new rotor arm and distributor cap.

I am also thinking of trying spraying some Easystart into the air intake to try and check whether or not fuel supply could be an issue. When I turn on the ignition, I can hear the fuel pump prime for 30 seconds, but I guess this is not conclusive proof of fuel delivery.

Best regards, Martin
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Old Dec 29th, 2020, 18:40   #4
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Good luck Martin - it sounds as if you are gradually working through all the possibilities.

Keep us posted, and just let me know if you want to try the capacitor.

I'm afraid your comments about availability are all too true, as with the ever dwindling supply of 400 series spares in general...

David
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Old Dec 30th, 2020, 03:08   #5
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That capacitor is almost certainly to prevent radio interference but i'm more confused by the fact the earth connection appears to be loose? Presumably because you were dismantling things. Can you see where the cap was meant to be connected?

I'd suggest you try the Easy Start as you're considering, if it fires the next thing i would consider is condensation in the fuel tank. The symptoms you've described so far fit with that.
If it fires with Easy Start, invest in some meths. If your fuel level is 1/4 tank or below invest in :

https://www.toolstation.com/methylated-spirit/p99550

Add it all to the tank and take it for a drive (use Easy Start to get it running to start with) to circulate it through the system and remove the condensation. Inline spark testers don't always give a good impression of the strength of the spark, the fact you've had a progressively worsening situation also suggests condensation in the tank.

Good luck and let us know how you get on.
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Old Dec 30th, 2020, 17:11   #6
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Many thanks Laird for these suggestions.

The earth connection was loose, since I had removed the ignition unit.

I have now tried Easy Start squirting into the black plastic opening created by removing the air cleaner hose (picture attached) while cranking the engine and slowly pressing the accelerator. The engine did not fire at all despite repeating this process three times. In the picture you can see that some of the Easy Start formed a liquid and then dripped out of the black plastic opening. Hopefully it will not have damaged the new ignition leads!

My assumption now is that either a dodgy rotor arm or distributor cap is resulting in too weak a voltage pulse to create a spark at the spark plug terminals. Hopefully when I receive the new rotor arm and distributor cap this will get the engine running. If not, I am a little stumped, fuel, correctly timed spark and compression should result in a running engine.

Cheers,

Martin
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Old Dec 30th, 2020, 18:00   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Brooklyn440 View Post
Many thanks Laird for these suggestions.

The earth connection was loose, since I had removed the ignition unit.

I have now tried Easy Start squirting into the black plastic opening created by removing the air cleaner hose (picture attached) while cranking the engine and slowly pressing the accelerator. The engine did not fire at all despite repeating this process three times. In the picture you can see that some of the Easy Start formed a liquid and then dripped out of the black plastic opening. Hopefully it will not have damaged the new ignition leads!

My assumption now is that either a dodgy rotor arm or distributor cap is resulting in too weak a voltage pulse to create a spark at the spark plug terminals. Hopefully when I receive the new rotor arm and distributor cap this will get the engine running. If not, I am a little stumped, fuel, correctly timed spark and compression should result in a running engine.

Cheers,

Martin
I forgot to say and i don't suppose you thought to check Martin - are the plugs damp? Inside i mean from repeated starting attempts.

Might be worth whipping the plugs out and cleaning them/drying them then retesting with the Easy Start. While you have them out, also check the plug gap, not sure what it should be on that engine but i'm sure the owners manual will tell you.

Also have you had a look inside the dizzy cap?

Check the carbon brush is intact, clean any corrosion (usually white) off the terminals inside the cap and wipe it out if it's damp. Also clean the rotor arm contacts by rubbing them across the grain of a pair of jeans or the sidewall of a tyre if you don't have any emery cloth.

Don't use sandpaper!
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Old Jan 1st, 2021, 17:28   #8
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Hi Everyone,

A quick update on how I am getting on. My new distributor cap and rotor arm arrived in the post so I thought it would be a quick job to fit them. However, this has not been the case. The rotor arm, which I had removed over the summer, is completely stuck in place. The existing rotor arm seems to be very well made with a metal sleeve built in which fits over the drive shaft from the engine. I think it was sunny and warm when I installed the rotor arm. Now it is cold the sleeve has contracted and despite penetrating oil, brute force and applied heat from a heat gun via a hole in a tin can, I cannot get the rotor arm off. As you can see from the attached photos, I have destroyed most of the original rotor arm in trying to remove it, but still the metal sleeve is locked in place.

I am now at a loss as what to do next – has anyone had this problem in the past and if so how was it solved? Potentially the most annoying thing may be that the now destroyed rotor arm may have been fine and it is something else which is causing my starting problem !

Fingers crossed someone can advise a way forward.

Many thanks
Martin
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File Type: jpg Broken_off_top_of_Rotor_Arm.jpg (261.3 KB, 5 views)
File Type: jpg Remnants_of_Rotor_arm_still_in_place.jpg (283.2 KB, 25 views)
File Type: jpg Applying_heat_via_hole_base_tin_can.jpg (305.3 KB, 3 views)
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Old Jan 1st, 2021, 17:38   #9
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Firstly it appears youve got the drive dogs from the rotor arm out so a pair of pliers or grips on the remains might get it turning so you can turn and pull to hopefully remove it.

Secondly, that flash shield looks upside down to me or at least not fitted in its correct orientation. Could be camera angles but the holes don't seem to line up correctly.

Think it's a matter of perseverance with the rotor arm.
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Old Jan 1st, 2021, 20:39   #10
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Hmmm...you've got a bit of a problem there Martin, haven't you? Typical 400 series Volvo, the bit that should be the simplest fights back the hardest!

If it were me, I would (carefully!) take a small hacksaw and cut down the "shaft" of the rotor arm towards the engine. Obviously you will soon reach that backing plate, but by then you may be able to get a screwdriver in and literally shatter what's left of the rotor arm off.

I think there is a genuine backing plate on ebay right now - https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/New-Genui...wAAOSwc~dd1nsC - but if you wanted to be able to not worry about damaging the existing one then please see my PM...

I have found that aftermarket rotor arms really vary in size. Some are an easy fit, some just clearly aren't going to fit in a month of Sundays!

Good luck

David
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Last edited by dcw; Jan 1st, 2021 at 20:42.
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