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Auto Gearbox Repair

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Old Jan 12th, 2021, 12:11   #11
Simmy
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dealers charge£300 plus for powershift gbox fluid and filter change which is why it gets neglected . it can be done diy but there s a set procedure which can be followed on you tube the level plug is on the side and access is tricky. the car has to be level to set it. the trans fluid is expensive. is filter is abt £22
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Old Jan 12th, 2021, 19:46   #12
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Thanks again to everyone for their comments.
Done some further research/calling around - Quotes to recondition the g'box ranged between "probably not much change from £3k" to "£3-3.5k".
Opinions differed on the replacement of ATF & filter to improve the symptoms. Whilst it can't do any harm (other than the cost), the concensus seemed to be that there is likely to be an underlying issue that will only be masked with fluid change and that a full strip down is probable in the near-medium term.
So, a £3k bill for a £3k car or borrow more and start again with another vehicle..
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Old Jan 12th, 2021, 20:01   #13
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Old Jan 12th, 2021, 22:26   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sye73 View Post
Thanks again to everyone for their comments.
Done some further research/calling around - Quotes to recondition the g'box ranged between "probably not much change from £3k" to "£3-3.5k".
Opinions differed on the replacement of ATF & filter to improve the symptoms. Whilst it can't do any harm (other than the cost), the concensus seemed to be that there is likely to be an underlying issue that will only be masked with fluid change and that a full strip down is probable in the near-medium term.
So, a £3k bill for a £3k car or borrow more and start again with another vehicle..
Before you ‘bin it’ and go for the 3k rebuild just remember this. Generally auto manufacturers specify their own ATF fluid as it is so critically sensitive. It’s not like coolant with a single purpose, the ATF fluid is what drives the gearbox and operates the changes and such like.


Now there is every chance at 180k it’s simply let go and needs the rebuild. Do just bear in mind that if the fluid is badly degraded it WILL cause these actions. Not to say it is, but it certainly could.

If nothing else I would ask a reputable firm not to do the change but to undo the fill plug and ‘dip’ the oil for you to check (if you can’t do it).

If it comes out a bit dark and worn as expected then fine. But if it comes out black and smelling burnt then there is an extremely good chance you could massively improve things (add some stop slip?).

It really is worth paying a garage £40.00 (it won’t be more than that) to check the fluid condition.

When you say people assume the worst I assume this isn’t just the trans people 😳
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Old Jan 12th, 2021, 23:19   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by XC90Mk1 View Post
Before you ‘bin it’ and go for the 3k rebuild just remember this. Generally auto manufacturers specify their own ATF fluid as it is so critically sensitive. It’s not like coolant with a single purpose, the ATF fluid is what drives the gearbox and operates the changes and such like.


Now there is every chance at 180k it’s simply let go and needs the rebuild. Do just bear in mind that if the fluid is badly degraded it WILL cause these actions. Not to say it is, but it certainly could.

If nothing else I would ask a reputable firm not to do the change but to undo the fill plug and ‘dip’ the oil for you to check (if you can’t do it).

If it comes out a bit dark and worn as expected then fine. But if it comes out black and smelling burnt then there is an extremely good chance you could massively improve things (add some stop slip?).

It really is worth paying a garage £40.00 (it won’t be more than that) to check the fluid condition.

When you say people assume the worst I assume this isn’t just the trans people 😳
If the fluid you need is JWS3309, you can buy 4.55L of compatible fluid for about £30 :

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Carlube-A...L/233257297843

I would do 3 or 4 "Part changes" each a month or so apart. Drive the car for 5-8 miles to get the ATF properly warmed up.

Park it so it's level so you can both drain and check the fluid level. Arrange a catch can underneath (Silverline do some good ones for about a fiver posted, look on ebay), remove the filler/level plug and remove the drain plug - carefully as it will be hot, try not to drop it or let ATF run down your arm!

Allow to drain, clean the drain plug and refit once drained. Arrange a funnel and some hose to go into the level plug hole and pour fresh fluid in until it come out of the hole. Refit the level plug, take for a test drive and recheck the level, topping up if necessary.

I transfer the old fluid to a clear container (ex screenwash are good) and allow to settle. Once settled i check to make sure there is no coolant at the bottom of it. Pouring some of the old fluid in a dribble onto some folded white kitchen roll will reveal a lot about the condition, colour and amount of sediment in it.

Repeat for a total of 3-4 changes a month or apart then reset all the fault codes and check the fluid has remained clean this time. Dipping your finger in the level hole and wiping on white kitchen roll will show you.

Repeat at 12 month/12k mile intervals to keep it fresh. It's a lot cheaper trying this than throwing it in for a rebuild and should save the box if it's possible to save it.
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Old Jan 12th, 2021, 23:38   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Laird Scooby View Post
If the fluid you need is JWS3309, you can buy 4.55L of compatible fluid for about £30 :

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Carlube-A...L/233257297843

I would do 3 or 4 "Part changes" each a month or so apart. Drive the car for 5-8 miles to get the ATF properly warmed up.

Park it so it's level so you can both drain and check the fluid level. Arrange a catch can underneath (Silverline do some good ones for about a fiver posted, look on ebay), remove the filler/level plug and remove the drain plug - carefully as it will be hot, try not to drop it or let ATF run down your arm!

Allow to drain, clean the drain plug and refit once drained. Arrange a funnel and some hose to go into the level plug hole and pour fresh fluid in until it come out of the hole. Refit the level plug, take for a test drive and recheck the level, topping up if necessary.

I transfer the old fluid to a clear container (ex screenwash are good) and allow to settle. Once settled i check to make sure there is no coolant at the bottom of it. Pouring some of the old fluid in a dribble onto some folded white kitchen roll will reveal a lot about the condition, colour and amount of sediment in it.

Repeat for a total of 3-4 changes a month or apart then reset all the fault codes and check the fluid has remained clean this time. Dipping your finger in the level hole and wiping on white kitchen roll will show you.

Repeat at 12 month/12k mile intervals to keep it fresh. It's a lot cheaper trying this than throwing it in for a rebuild and should save the box if it's possible to save it.
Is that the corrects fluid for the Powershift gearbox or is it for tha Asin Warner box?
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Old Jan 12th, 2021, 23:59   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Whyman View Post
Is that the corrects fluid for the Powershift gearbox or is it for tha Asin Warner box?
What fluid does the Powershift box need?
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Old Jan 13th, 2021, 02:16   #18
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A quick google and a dig deeper i came up with it needing Aisin JWS3309/AW1, Aisin JWS3317 according to here

If it is ok with the 3309, then this will be ok but i would confirm the correct fluid prior to purchasing though, as aint sure if 3309/AW1 is the same as just 3309 and then it also states 3317 so, my hands are in the air lol
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Last edited by Bashy; Jan 13th, 2021 at 02:20.
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Old Jan 13th, 2021, 02:25   #19
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Don’t know the spec but I do know that there is a specific service action at about 30000 miles to change the oil and filter which takes 6 liters of oil.

Ford charge about £300ish.
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Old Jan 13th, 2021, 02:42   #20
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Volvo indy is about £150
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