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850 / S70 & V70 '96-'99 / C70 '97-'05 General Forum for the 850 and P80-platform 70-series models |
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Replacing heater matrixViews : 3212 Replies : 27Users Viewing This Thread : |
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Nov 22nd, 2019, 19:52 | #21 |
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Behr and Hella are the same company regarding air conditioning conditioning components...
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1995 Volvo 850 T5 Estate (Manual) |
Nov 24th, 2019, 21:31 | #22 |
Volvo V70 2.5D
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https://www.volvoforums.org.uk/showt...=275582&page=2
There are a few bits in there that may help. Particularly a fix if the bulkhead pipe bracket was as brittle as mine! Still going strong 2 years on. cheers- Ben |
Nov 30th, 2019, 00:11 | #23 | |
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As I understand it, if I don't drain the system the danger is that trapped air could blow the new matrix off, but isn't that always a risk as when I re-fill with new coolant I would still have pockets of air?
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Phil '98 V70 2.5T (manual '99MY) |
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Nov 30th, 2019, 08:47 | #24 |
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No, that's nonsense, as you say there will always be some air in it after a drain-down. These systems bleed fairly easily after a drain-down.
To drain the system I'd recommend leaving the drain bolt well alone (on the bottom of the rad) as it can snap off and possibly trash the radiator. Best way IMHO is to loosen the bottom hose clip and drain it from there. This clip is often rusty and it's not unheard of for it to rust all the way through and let go, so a good opportunity to inspect it and either oil the threads or replace it if it's at all suspect.
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Nov 30th, 2019, 11:04 | #25 | |
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Quote:
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Phil '98 V70 2.5T (manual '99MY) |
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Nov 30th, 2019, 16:16 | #26 |
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Replace it with a good quality stainless steel clip.
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Nov 30th, 2019, 16:54 | #27 | |
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Luxobarge's suggestion is much quicker however, and a includes a good preventative maintenance step.
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1995 Volvo 850 T5 Estate (Manual) |
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Dec 4th, 2019, 18:11 | #28 |
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I did mine several years ago. If I remember correctly I used clamps on the hoses to the matrix (engine bay side) as suggested in one of the on line videos, and then removed the matrix - bad idea as all the coolant in the matrix needed draining and most ended up in the foot well. I also ended up having to drain and re-fill the full coolant system after as I had an airlock that I couldn't clear. - Given the cost of anti-freeze I would suggest doing a full drain down and refill as part of the job - it will be a lot easier and less chance of flooding the foot well. - Took me about 3 hours with basic tools and plenty of tea brakes
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