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Missfire 960

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Old Jul 12th, 2019, 07:13   #21
mjk164
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Dave, thanks for that info and I like your old spanner seal remover; I'll make one out of many of my old spanners.
As my car was a company one before I bought it, I think all the issues like inlet gasket had been resolved.
Just by the way;
The cylinder head bolts were tight and I have a set of quailty impact sockets including a 14mm for those bolts...essential to remove them with a good extension bar.
Also lifting the head off the gasket, I found that very, very gentle leverage under the thermostat housing, and the head lifted easily. As I work by myself, I jury rigged a simple pulley system to gently lift the head out; I shall need that again to replace it without damage to the gasket. I also found it easier, with the head lifted an inch up and moved forward towards the radiator, it is much easier to remove the screws and bolts holding various brackets etc from the back of the block. For the future, I'm going to change those Torx screws there for standard Hex...they only need to be nipped up.
Thanks for the advice.
Garth.
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Old Jul 12th, 2019, 09:35   #22
Laird Scooby
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mjk164 View Post
Dave, thanks for that info and I like your old spanner seal remover; I'll make one out of many of my old spanners.
As my car was a company one before I bought it, I think all the issues like inlet gasket had been resolved.
Just by the way;
The cylinder head bolts were tight and I have a set of quailty impact sockets including a 14mm for those bolts...essential to remove them with a good extension bar.
Also lifting the head off the gasket, I found that very, very gentle leverage under the thermostat housing, and the head lifted easily. As I work by myself, I jury rigged a simple pulley system to gently lift the head out; I shall need that again to replace it without damage to the gasket. I also found it easier, with the head lifted an inch up and moved forward towards the radiator, it is much easier to remove the screws and bolts holding various brackets etc from the back of the block. For the future, I'm going to change those Torx screws there for standard Hex...they only need to be nipped up.
Thanks for the advice.
Garth.
The beauty of using a spanner Garth is it can still be used as a spanner after! A piece of wood between the spanner and head not only makes a good levering point but protects the head from the spanner.

I suspect the head is a bit weighty so good thinking using the block & tackle/pulley system.

Don't forget to clean the threads in the head-bolts (and lightly oil them) and also the block where they screw in, some engines need new head bolts each time, i'm not sure on the B6304 if that is the case or not.

Torx or socket head doesn't make any difference as long as they do the job.
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Dave

Next Door to Top-Gun with a Rover 827 Sterling and a 765 GLEa V6!
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Old Jul 12th, 2019, 10:37   #23
mjk164
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Yes Dave, the 6304 head bolts are stretched to tighten in a very specific order, and so a new set is required; they are not that expensive.
G
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