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Post-Rebuild B20 - Coolant Leak

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Old Jul 11th, 2019, 02:56   #31
gothamus
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Default Oil Sensor

The trick for test driving on the BQE and surviving the very possible breakdown, aside from foolish bravery, is after 10:00 at night during the week. If Iím up at 1:00 AM, which I often am as a night owl, the BQE is a great 20 mile cruise to Coney Island. Barely any traffic but the occasional exotic sports cars weaving by like bees, doing there in pleasure cruises (sober, I hope).

Doing a light drive around the neighborhood just now I found I still have a tremendous oil leak. So hard to pin point until I ran the car at idle. The oil pressure sender is leaking out the end, by the connector. Not the threads. My highway drive last night must have compromised it. I have an oil pressure gauge from an 1800 there as well. Connected with a brass T junction. I still donít have a good position for that gauge so itís hard to read while driving (great great). Itís hovering around 70...oh, what is that? Kg? One never reads the fine print. So either thatís the pressure of the oil or the pipes! No leaking in that brass pipe or junction.

Iím reinstalling the old sender or a temp block off.
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Old Jul 11th, 2019, 10:44   #32
Derek UK
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The oil pressure switch, the one that works the dash oil light, can fail by leaking past the black plastic centre part. Not a common failure. At this point, just get another of those and screw it directly into the block and add the wire for the light. You can come back later and sort out the oil pressure gauge.

70psi is about 5bar or kg/cm2. That is high and would normally be around 45-50 psi. 70 psi at a cold start in NY in winter maybe, but would come down.
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Old Jul 11th, 2019, 14:27   #33
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ďI have a one way valve on the flame trap, so no escape from the side.ď

Not sure I understand what the one way valve is you refer to. I donít think there should be one.
B18 vs B20 have different arrangements for this piping, maybe worth checking out this article from Ron Kwasí SWEM site.

https://sw-em.com/pcv_diagrams_and_notes.htm
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Old Jul 11th, 2019, 16:32   #34
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Crankcase flow is something I have considered and would like clarification if I have mis-understood. The images indicate where I have a PCV Valve, which I called a 'one-way valve'. Item # 11 in one diagram. Since it's a B20, air is meant to flow in and not out of side vent. A valve seems necessary to avoid gases flowing out (I have gone without in the past and gases will go in and out whenever the pressure is correspondingly positive or negative). I don't know what dynamic at play would have positive pressure be relived via the manifold nipple only. I suppose the same thing that keeps pressure from going out the oil dip stick? The crank case breather would allow more air to escape than the manifold, whatever draw exists there. It's a tiny hole!

I have a bunch of PCV Valve's sitting around and I am unsure which one I should fit or how they are measured. Part numbers but nothing to distinguish one from another on the shelf. I think the one I picked looks most like the one image I found some time ago. I've thought about it much and never been sure.

About the pressure sender- the leak is precisely around the copper connector embedded in some petroleum byproduct. The old one is made of a harder material, perhaps baclite. It wasn't broken, just dirty, old and messy. I will replace it if it fails. No leak this morning. I'll see if I can drive not the highway this evening without too great of pressure.

Still running hot. Going to be hot and hotter days for the next week. How hot is really too hot and calls for critical stop? Right now I am waiting until convenient to pull over. Never more than a few minutes. Top end I measured is 220f/104c degrees. I measured under each plug and got 193/90 degrees on all 4. Imperfect measure, I know. Night time running does not hit the top of the mark on gauge.
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File Type: png PCV B20.png (224.8 KB, 5 views)
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Old Jul 11th, 2019, 17:44   #35
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Are you sure that the rad is fully clean? I had an old Ford that always over heated .I checked every thing, cleaned out the rad and still same problem. to cut a long story short although the rad seem to flow ok quite a few of the tubes in matrix were blocked solid so I was only getting half a rad cooling
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Old Jul 11th, 2019, 23:21   #36
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Default cooling flow

Arcturus- No, I'm not, since the seller of the engine didn't do what he said and it was too late when I realized the degree of lies lies lies!

I am figuring out how and where I am going to violate some environmental laws with a hose on engine orifices. "Oh, no Officer, that's just water I had in the engine. None of the ethyl something coolant acid. They didn't use that stuff back in the beforetime. Just moldy water".

Only recently did I realize the design of that pipe that goes through the engine, with the opening at each cylinder. That could well be clogged. I was picking out sediment and rust around the cylinders with tweezers for hours when I had the head off. It's going to be a rainy night, a good time to do an aggressive flush with a hose.If I can just get one of those spots in front of my building.
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Old Jul 12th, 2019, 03:41   #37
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I donít believe a B20 uses a PCV valve, at least mine doesnít. As I recall the B20 has a reverse flow that a B18 does. Remove your PCV valve and double check the hose routing with the SW-EM article.

As to the flushing, given youíve removed a lot of rust, there ďmayĒ be more in there. When I flushed mine with a garden hose, likely 20 complete flushes, garden hose in thermostat opening, and draincock removed , I got what you see in the picture. This was probably only 50% of what came out, and while I didnít get it all only small amounts were coming out on the last few flushes.
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Old Jul 12th, 2019, 11:28   #38
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Has it been mentioned which thermostat you have fitted? Picture may indicate a 92ļ. An 82ļ might be better and is more correct.
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Old Jul 12th, 2019, 14:52   #39
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If you decide to clean out the water ways & radiator then central heating descaler is ideal for this- follow the instructions & leave it pickling for as long as you can- bring up to temperature from time to time.
Central heating descaler is far more efficient compared to the shop items- it is also safe for mixed metals.
Bob.
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Old Jul 13th, 2019, 03:35   #40
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bob Meadows View Post
If you decide to clean out the water ways & radiator then central heating descaler is ideal for this- follow the instructions & leave it pickling for as long as you can- bring up to temperature from time to time.
Central heating descaler is far more efficient compared to the shop items- it is also safe for mixed metals.
Bob.
Link to the product? Where to buy?

Thx
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b20, engine rebuild, leaking coolant


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