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200 Series General Forum for the Volvo 240 and 260 cars |
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Any Advice?Views : 13425 Replies : 248Users Viewing This Thread : |
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Jan 21st, 2020, 11:43 | #21 | |
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I did once long ago convert an M47 to a M46 just because I'd experience of an overdrive box on other cars and loved the slick clutchless change. I haven't bothered with my subsequent cars - the 5-speed seems pretty good - but I've kept the old 4+OD together with the prop shaft just in case. The 5-speeds don't have the longevity of the earlier box, and start to get noisy after about 200,000 miles. The overdrive box did about 450,000 miles when I scrapped the car, but still seemed faultless and good for another few. |
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Jan 21st, 2020, 15:38 | #22 |
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LS - I should have put 'estate' in the list of requirements - camping and all that. I'd seen that saloon advertised and like it - in fact, we both really like the saloons, but an estate is perfect (he surfs and that space in the back would be ideal for boards and stuff) and the idea is that the car's a keeper.
That said, looking on the net, I remembered how much I like the two-door coupe versions! Were they just for the US market? Anyway, that's not on our radar. Also, I'd not thought about getting an auto and in time converting to manual- is that a complex job? If we're looking for an auto with overdrive, what dates of manufacture should we be considering? I've put a wanted ad out on FB, we'll see if anything turns up... ps Dan - I tried to pm you about insurance but I can't as I don't yet have enough posts. Maybe you can pm me and I'll be able to reply? Thanks. Last edited by Chris152; Jan 21st, 2020 at 15:41. |
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Jan 21st, 2020, 16:19 | #23 | |
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It's a fairly long job to convert to manual, simply in terms of spanner twirling time. Not especially complicated, just labour intensive and you'll need some good trolley jacks and axle stands. Ideally you'd want a spares car to remove the manual box from and all items of trim, gear lever, pedal box, the list is fairly long and some parts are best bought new such as the spigot bearing. I've done several in my time but no Volvos, that said the principle is the same so i can give you plenty of pointers, if anyone else has also done it they can hopefully fill in any blanks i might leave. Summing up what you've said so far, it sounds very much like you're looking for a late 245GLE/GLT, go for as late a car as you can find as you're more likely to get fuel injection which gives the improved power and economy. I'd say avoid one with a cat (unless it's unavoidable, i.e. J reg or newer) as it saps power, economy and can be costly if the cat is either stolen or expires.
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Jan 21st, 2020, 16:48 | #24 | |
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As an indicator of the level we're (I'm) thinking at here, in my mind the conversion to manual would involve the gearbox. I'd not thought of pedals, housing etc! But that would be down the road and one for the boy to sort out in time. |
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Jan 21st, 2020, 17:11 | #25 | |
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Having also had Austin Maxis back in the day, I take your point regarding 5-speeders (effectively overdrive) being more relaxed and economical to drive than straight 4-speeders generally are. Regards, John.
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Jan 21st, 2020, 18:15 | #26 |
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That's where the 4 speed autos come into their own, 4th is an overdrive ratio so makes a big difference.
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Jan 22nd, 2020, 06:54 | #27 |
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Browsing the net and looking at details of various cars, I realised I couldn't recall all the advice you've given, so I've gone back through and pulled out what I think is most important info for us at the moment. Accepting that some of these are clearly swings and roundabouts, we need to consider:
L, LH Jetronic and Motronic - improved power and economy over carbs and K Jetronic (question - how will I know what injection system is in any car - is it by date?); Avoid smaller engines (ie 2.0) as they are underpowered, less mpg and wear out - go for 2.3; Later 240s have better rust protection (any idea what date this started?), and avoid significant signs of rust below tailgate and behind rear bumper, this can be a sign of expensive rust further down; If manual, try to get overdrive for better ride and economy; 5-speed better still as no overdrive to go wrong (I think I read that elsewhere) but they can get noisy after 200 000 miles (question - do some autos have OD? I see that's what's written above); Avoid post-1991 (J-reg) as the cat saps power and economy and can be expensive to replace; 245GLE/GLT looks a good match to our needs (tho the 'T' could be expensive for insurance for him). With those pointers in mind we have something like a target car in mind, and can work back from that according to what comes up for sale. Any corrections very welcome! Thanks. |
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Jan 22nd, 2020, 08:36 | #28 | |
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K-Jtronic engines have a large intake manifold/plenum chamber that you can use as a tool store/cup holder and was fitted on cars up to (IIRC) a G-prefix. Manual gear-box is a matter of preference - I had an M47 that ran to 235000 without any sign of trouble, and an overdrive box whose wiring I "modified" to give me 8 forward ratios. 240SE estates were predominantly 2.0litre cars but I didn't find mine particularly underpowered as we came back from Clitheroe to Asgard with two large rolls of carpet on the roof at the legal speed limits and the Thelwall Viaduct is not the place to be holding up the traffic. The late estates, with the deeper tailgate window are aluminium so don't rot out at the base; all estates have fragile tailgate wiring looms but there are plenty of guides on the forum to the bodging/proper rectification/replacement of same.
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Jan 22nd, 2020, 09:32 | #29 | |
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I don't think that can be true. All the models I have had have had steel tailgates, including 90, 91, 92 and 93. If they were aluminium they'd be much lighter, and would need different struts and probably catch/lock. It's true though I think that the later design are less prone to rust - may be because of better window seal,or perhaps just being younger so haven't started yet. |
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Jan 22nd, 2020, 09:44 | #30 | |
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