Volvo Community Forum. The Forums of the Volvo Owners Club

Forum Rules Volvo Owners Club About VOC Volvo Gallery Links Volvo History Volvo Press
Go Back   Volvo Owners Club Forum > "Technical Topics" > PV, 120 (Amazon), 1800 General
Register Members Cars Help Calendar Extra Stuff

Notices

PV, 120 (Amazon), 1800 General Forum for the Volvo PV, 120 and 1800 cars

Information
  • VOC Members: There is no login facility using your VOC membership number or the details from page 3 of the club magazine. You need to register in the normal way
  • AOL Customers: Make sure you check the 'Remember me' check box otherwise the AOL system may log you out during the session. This is a known issue with AOL.
  • AOL, Yahoo and Plus.net users. Forum owners such as us are finding that AOL, Yahoo and Plus.net are blocking a lot of email generated from forums. This may mean your registration activation and other emails will not get to you, or they may appear in your spam mailbox

Thread Informations

How's this for bad workmanship?

Views : 2014

Replies : 9

Users Viewing This Thread :  

Reply
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
Old Jun 26th, 2010, 20:44   #1
woodman
Master Member
 

Last Online: Mar 10th, 2023 13:03
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: Sheffield
Default How's this for bad workmanship?

Here's a picture of the alternator I've just removed. I'd noticed the thing was wobbling and rattling a bit, but when I looked at from underneath I noticed the lug was cracked. And why? Because whoever fitted it didn't have a long enough bolt, so they hacksawed half the lug off to get it on and weakened the casting. As it's been wobbling it's also stripped half the thread. AND it appears they haven't wired it through a charge regulator, so ever since I've had it I've been boiling the battery every day. Consequence: I have a perfectly functioning alternator that's going for scrap, I need a new one at £130 and I'll probably need a new battery very soon too.

I imagine this was the same cowboy who used heat and (I assume) a basic puller to get a brake drum off, relined the shoes and then put the same oval drum back on, then gave it an MOT (probably on the logic that it was an old car that did 50 miles a year so it didn't matter). That cost me money too.

Rant over.
Attached Images
File Type: jpg broken alternator.JPG (74.2 KB, 67 views)
__________________
1967 Volvo 121 Auto in everyday use and rolling restoration.

2002 Audi TT quattro. (Sorry!)
woodman is offline   Reply With Quote
Old Jun 26th, 2010, 20:49   #2
940_Turbo
.
 

Last Online: Jul 14th, 2013 14:28
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: MK
Default

It may be worth asking if someone has a broken alternator. It isn't hard to swap the front housing over. If it is one of the new ones on the market the regulator is internal, the original Volvo ones are external.

Quote:
Originally Posted by woodman View Post
Here's a picture of the alternator I've just removed. I'd noticed the thing was wobbling and rattling a bit, but when I looked at from underneath I noticed the lug was cracked. And why? Because whoever fitted it didn't have a long enough bolt, so they hacksawed half the lug off to get it on and weakened the casting. As it's been wobbling it's also stripped half the thread. AND it appears they haven't wired it through a charge regulator, so ever since I've had it I've been boiling the battery every day. Consequence: I have a perfectly functioning alternator that's going for scrap, I need a new one at £130 and I'll probably need a new battery very soon too.

I imagine this was the same cowboy who used heat and (I assume) a basic puller to get a brake drum off, relined the shoes and then put the same oval drum back on, then gave it an MOT (probably on the logic that it was an old car that did 50 miles a year so it didn't matter). That cost me money too.

Rant over.
940_Turbo is offline   Reply With Quote
Old Jun 26th, 2010, 22:43   #3
Tail
Master Member
 

Last Online: Nov 29th, 2020 00:42
Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: Newton Abbot
Default

Would it be possible to get it aluminium welded then get it rethreaded, i know on my truck we reweld allsorts of things that you think you wouldn't get away with.
Tail is offline   Reply With Quote
Old Jun 27th, 2010, 01:32   #4
Ron Kwas
Premier Member
 
Ron Kwas's Avatar
 

Last Online: Today 12:21
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: Connecticut, USA
Default

Woodman;

I believe that is a failure of the classic quick and dirty alternator conversion where the housing was unceremonially modified (by weakening it, as you can see) so that it is not necessary to install an adapter...one option is to locate an unmolested housing from a junk alt with which to repair that alt. then reinstall with an appropriate bracket (IPD for Bosch SW-EM for Delco)...as far as absence of Regulator, other poster has already touched on the possible answer: internal regulator ...if you post some pictures of the rear contact area, forum should be able to help further identifying the alt.

I also request permission to republish your pic to show what a bad idea the quick and dirty non-bracket mounting method is.

Cheers from Connecticut!
Ron Kwas is offline   Reply With Quote
Old Jun 27th, 2010, 09:23   #5
Derek UK
VOC Member
 
Derek UK's Avatar
 

Last Online: Yesterday 17:06
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: Chatham
Default

Am I missing something, why is this hole threaded? An alternator isn't "fixed" and should have smooth holes to allow it to be pivoted on the mounting and adjustment bolts.
Derek UK is offline   Reply With Quote
Old Jun 27th, 2010, 10:45   #6
dgbalfour
VOC Member
 

Last Online: Today 09:26
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Bedford
Default

My alternator has a threaded upper mount (where the belt tensioner is) to allow you just to use a bolt through the tensioner bracket - the thread allows the alternator to tighten against the bracket without using a nut. I suppose it saves using two spanners when you want to remove it, that's the only benefit.

My dynamo suffered in the same way with a cracked lower mount, I don't know why though.
dgbalfour is offline   Reply With Quote
Old Jun 27th, 2010, 12:33   #7
Ron Kwas
Premier Member
 
Ron Kwas's Avatar
 

Last Online: Today 12:21
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: Connecticut, USA
Default

Derek;

You are right of course...I believe that is just remaining evidence, that the pivot bolt was threaded where it went through the housing and vibrated against the inside wall cutting its threads into it...if I look carefully at the threads, the threads look like they are not even in-line with the alt armature...just more evidence of shoddy design and workmanship...the person who did that should maybe stick to video games!

dgbalfour; Cracked housings are inevitably a result of vibration which occurs with sloppy mounting...even with an unmolested housing this can occur...alternators are meant to be pivoted in order to tension belt, the LOCKED in place...at the pivot and tensioning bar...if there is relative movement of any kind, something WILL eventually fatigue and break as a result...

Cheers
Ron Kwas is offline   Reply With Quote
Old Jun 27th, 2010, 14:01   #8
woodman
Master Member
 

Last Online: Mar 10th, 2023 13:03
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: Sheffield
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Ron Kwas View Post
Derek;

You are right of course...I believe that is just remaining evidence, that the pivot bolt was threaded where it went through the housing and vibrated against the inside wall cutting its threads into it...if I look carefully at the threads, the threads look like they are not even in-line with the alt armature...just more evidence of shoddy design and workmanship...the person who did that should maybe stick to video games!

dgbalfour; Cracked housings are inevitably a result of vibration which occurs with sloppy mounting...even with an unmolested housing this can occur...alternators are meant to be pivoted in order to tension belt, the LOCKED in place...at the pivot and tensioning bar...if there is relative movement of any kind, something WILL eventually fatigue and break as a result...

Cheers
Ron - please use my photo as you wish!

Yep, neither the saw cut nor the threaded hole are true to the armature. Bloody hell!

I'm thinking the best use of the old alt is to see if someone wants its innards to recon an equivalent unit. I'll be happier (if poorer) with a new 55amp one with a built-in regulator.

Thanks everyone for your suggestions and for letting me let off steam about crap workmanship!
__________________
1967 Volvo 121 Auto in everyday use and rolling restoration.

2002 Audi TT quattro. (Sorry!)
woodman is offline   Reply With Quote
Old Jun 29th, 2010, 20:30   #9
loon
Senior Member
 

Last Online: Nov 14th, 2016 01:07
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: essex
Default

i have a recon 35 amp external reg' alternator if its any use,
pm me if you are interested
loon is offline   Reply With Quote
Old Jun 29th, 2010, 20:52   #10
woodman
Master Member
 

Last Online: Mar 10th, 2023 13:03
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: Sheffield
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by loon View Post
i have a recon 35 amp external reg' alternator if its any use,
pm me if you are interested
Thanks but I have a shiny new alternator now.
__________________
1967 Volvo 121 Auto in everyday use and rolling restoration.

2002 Audi TT quattro. (Sorry!)
woodman is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply


Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off

Forum Jump


All times are GMT +1. The time now is 21:18.


Powered by vBulletin
Copyright ©2000 - 2024, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.