Suspension: 850 rear shock absorbers – rejuvenated

[Moose850]

Would be nice is a stretchy style boot was availble, much like the type you can get for CV joints.

[bob12]

Originally Posted by Bob Meadows

This type of end fitting (circled in blue) can be removed if you work carefully: ~ etc, etc .........
.................................
A camper gas gun is more than sufficient to break the seal- A small valve with plastic seals (nylon?) is attached the base of the part being removed- plus a spring so be aware that parts can jump out..
Keep a cloth wrapped around the above as you remove, fluid under pressure will want to get out plus the valve parts. The fluid that I removed looked like tomato soup and not a good brand at that!
I replaced the fluid with new – the same amount as removed. At the base of the threaded part you should find a fibre gasket. To replace the eye keep the fluid just below the threads making sure that the same is free from oil, apply thread lock, I use the low torque type here as it is easier to remove the eye in the future. ..........................

The above are from a Volvo 240 that has rubber eyes at each end- I haven’t replaced the gaiters at present but may do so- It became a bit of an experiment I suppose but the condition of the items is very good i.e. no rust on body parts or chrome. I do have a 240 but I’m not particularly interested in fitting them-they came from a friends working car.

Regards Bob

Thanks Bob.

The pic is a Nivo off a 745/900 Series. The end bushing is actually only partly screwed on (for photo purposes!!).

I don't use any heat on them to remove the bottom eye just a lot of brute force (piston held in aluminum vice jaws) with a large (massive) lever on the bushing. I would be concerned about heat transfer to the rubber bonded bushing and the seal at the end of the piston in the Nivo casing so don't use any heat. Clearly the piston is exceptionally (heavily) well chromed.

Not sure I follow or understand the bit about the small plastic valve and plastic and fibre seals washers or how you top up the oil but, there you go.

I have to reassemble these particular ones and replace the existing ones before the MOT next week!

Cheers, Bob

[Bob Meadows]

Bob:~
The set I have (240) have a fibre washer around the thread base i.e. as the end fitting screws tight into the chrome rod.
Heat is applied only to the above joint little danger of transfer to the rubber bushes- unless you overdo it and nuc the thing! The eyes wouldn’t move without breaking the thread lock seal on mine.
The valve is apparently a Compression intake vale ?
Picture may help- comes away with the removed end etc. the shock absorber is emptied & refilled through the chrome shaft.
Regards Bob.

[bob12]

Arrh, thanks for the schematic Bob.

I have never seen any washers or springs etc after taking off the end bushing. The threaded end of the piston looks very solid. Is there a secret to accessing the hollow piston?

Cheers, Bob.

[Bob Meadows]

I guess the Nivomat shocks are two different types Bob:~

The bushed end screws directly into the hollow rod on these so no further work other than draining the old fluid.
Regards Bob.

[bob12]

Originally Posted by Bob Meadows

I guess the Nivomat shocks are two different types Bob:~

The bushed end screws directly into the hollow rod on these so no further work other than draining the old fluid.
Regards Bob.

Thanks and yes you are right. See pic attached.

Cheers, Bob

[Moose850]

Update...............

Volvo has been sitting unused for about 3 weeks now while I replace both front wings and attend to a host of other jobs whilst the bumper and wings are off.
The level of the rear has not visually dropped. I'm liking this.