1800: Volvo specialist Wirral

[DeanSheldon]

Good morning, I have recently bought a 1972 Volvo 1800es.The bodywork is immaculate but there are mechanical issues. It is hesitating during acceleration and is idling rougher than I would like but I am working my way through the usual issues which may solve the problem. The main issue with the car is that the rear crank seal is weeping and i'm sure this will get worse over time. I am on the Wirral and I am looking for a local Volvo specialist who could replace this seal and also carry out any work in future which may be beyond my capabilities.

Can anyone advise me of anyone on or near the Wirral who may be able to help?

Thanks, Dean

[VolvoRoyS]

Hi Dean,

Welcome to P1800ES ownership. I bought my 1973 P1800ES last year and that wasn't running well either. Your car should have D-jetronic fuel injection and this is largely unknown to most garages so like me you will be on your own in sorting it out. Having spent the last year sorting the engine running of my car I feel I would be able to help you. As a starting point this guide on the fuel injection is essential reading:

https://volvo1800pictures.com/docume...lt_tracing.pdf

As regards replacing the rear seal I would probably trust my local garage with that as I don't think that there is anything special about it, although I do believe there is a modification; see Brookhouse Volvo parts for details.

Roy

[DeanSheldon]

Thanks Roy, that's very helpful

[VolvoRoyS]

My car had a bad oil leak but this turned out to be the rocker cover gasket. My car also has a seep from the rear main seal; I think this is very common and for now I am ignoring it. I had too many other issues to sort out but at some point I'll have to face it and will most likely fit the conversion kit.

By the way I live in Sale and you are not that far away so could pop over sometime.

Roy

[DeanSheldon]

Thanks Roy, that's very helpful

[DeanSheldon]

Hi Roy, sorry I posted the same reply twice. The next step with the rough running is to check the valve clearances. I have a spare ECU for the fuel injection and have tried this but it did not change anything so I presume that this is not the issue, points are new, condenser is new and so are the leads, coil and distributor cap. I'll persevere and let you know how I get on

[Splinelube]

Had the same issue with my 72ES. I have less hair now because of the frustration, Remedy -new gas/petrol tank. I do not know how the poor car ran at all with all that rust. I went through all the advice on various forums re the ECU/ injectors ad infinatum. Replaced the fuel tank and pickup/sender in the tank and it was superb vehicle. Then because of all the frustration stateside trying to find someone with that era Bosch experience -"same system as on VWs" I heard a hundred times . I sold the car. I dearly miss it but enough is enough. Good luck.

[VolvoRoyS]

Originally Posted by DeanSheldon

Hi Roy, sorry I posted the same reply twice. The next step with the rough running is to check the valve clearances. I have a spare ECU for the fuel injection and have tried this but it did not change anything so I presume that this is not the issue, points are new, condenser is new and so are the leads, coil and distributor cap. I'll persevere and let you know how I get on

I did all that to no effect. You need to become familiar with the D-jetronic fuel injection. First there is the Throttle Position Switch (TPS) which is a small black plastic box on the inlet manifold, near the inlet hose. It has 4 wires going to its plug which are all white but numbered 17, 14, 20 and 9. It's important that this TPS is set up correctly; mine wasn't. Not only had wire 17 become detached (essential for idle detection by the ECU) but the whole plug was inverted as my car has the later TPS. With your car being 1972 it will probably have the earlier TPS so wire 17 should be at the top.

You can find out how to set it up from the trouble-shooting guide or I can talk you through it.

Roy

[DeanSheldon]

Hi Spinelube, the tank is nearly new and I have drained it and the fuel drained was spotless.I fitted a new fuel pump and filter to be on the safe side.The car was fully restored several years ago but has stood idle since but I am pretty sure it isn't the tank etc.

Roy, I have printed the fuel injection fault tracing paperwork off and it seems to be a great source of information.I'll have a look through it and take note of your comments above.I appreciate very much your offer to come and take a look but i'll persevere a little longer and if I get no futher i'll let you know and come back to you.

Thank you both for your help

Dean

[VolvoRoyS]

Originally Posted by DeanSheldon

Roy, I have printed the fuel injection fault tracing paperwork off and it seems to be a great source of information. I'll have a look through it and take note of your comments above.

Dean

The injection fault guide requires you to lose your existing settings on the TPS. You can avoid this if you do some tests as it is currently set up as follows:

remove the 4-pin plug

make up a pair leads that will fit onto the spades of the TPS; I found some wires in my box of spare wiring that had the right size push-on connectors and connected a crocodile clip to the end of each so that I could get a good connection with the probes on my meter.

connect these 2 leads to where wires 17 and 14 go; with the throttle closed you should get a reading of zero resistance; as soon as you open the throttle the reading on your meter should go to infinity. If you are not getting these values then the idle is not set up properly. I think this is what the fault guide is saying as in section 4c and 4d pages 2.31, 2.32, although there the ignition is on and the plug still in place. I found I couldn't get a good connection on wire 17 with my probe on the meter so did it slightly differently.

Next connect your leads to where wires 14 and 20 go; as you open the throttle throughout its range you should get alternate open and closed circuit readings - should be up to 10 of each. Should finish on open circuit (infinite resistance)

Repeat with where wires 14 and 9 go and you should get something similar. Should finish on closed circuit (zero resistance)

If you are not getting these alternating values then it's likely that the TPS is worn.

Good hunting,

Roy