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200 Series General Forum for the Volvo 240 and 260 cars |
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K-Jet Idling troubles on initial startupViews : 2223 Replies : 14Users Viewing This Thread : |
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Nov 21st, 2019, 15:00 | #11 |
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I def have an original Volvo relay.
And no, not all K Jet had this behavior... Mine is an 88 GL, french spec (non lambda K Jet with TZ28H ignition, both were phased out in the early 80s on other markets). |
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Nov 21st, 2019, 16:37 | #12 |
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This is fascinating as about 2 years ago I had exactly the same start up symptoms as described: 1988 240 Gl estate, 2l, auto. I did a complete replacement of ignition bits ... cables, plugs, rotor, cap at the same time as I changed the thermostat and it seemed to cure the starting problem. But it concerns me that other reasons given could create the issue in future.
I am intrigued about 'control pressure' and associated bits of the fuel system. Given that our car is now over 30 years old (only 69K miles though) would I need to take the car to a specialist to get the fuel system checked over ... I am reluctant to pay main dealer prices even if they could do it. Or would a specialist fuel injection garage be the best route? Cheers, Phil |
Nov 21st, 2019, 19:54 | #13 | |
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Quote:
If there are no pulses from the distributor, the relay switches off after a second. When you turn the ignition on, the relay turns on for 1 second. Whether it's a side-effect, I don't know, but I would imagine it's a pretty welcomed side-effect to pressurise the system. Fuel accumulater doesn't have anything to do with it.
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--- '89 Volvo 240GLT B230E/AW70 '14 Volvo V70 SE D4/M66 FWD '70 Chevrolet Chevelle Malibu '95 Saab 9000 CSE 2.0 Turbo Auto |
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Nov 21st, 2019, 19:57 | #14 | |
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Nov 22nd, 2019, 18:51 | #15 |
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Well, that's weird...
What kind of ignition are you guys running tho ? The TZ28H that I had (cuz im replacing it for 123 now) used to only have 2 wires going in/out of it. This system doesnt really communicate with the injection... Appart from the power from the ignition switch and the tach wire (red/white) there isnt anything. My car doesnt prime the pump when I turn the ignition switch to the run position. It does take a second or two to shut the pumps of after the engine stopped tho. The relay is a genuine Volvo green relay and its like, 3 months old. I replaced it out of precaution, the one that came with the car was working fine but never primed the pump before either... Its not the 1st 240 that I've seen with this behavior. My car is electrically sound, it being an 88 means the harness is fine + ive checked the wiring and it doesn't like anyone messed up with it and it seems to be in a really good shape for its age. As for K Jet... Yeah, they really don't like sitting/bad fuel. Changing the thermostat is a must, as the mixture is enriched by the WUR until it reaches operating temp. My thermostat was broken, alongside a bad hot air intake. I ditched and removed the hot air intake and replaced the thermostat, putting an 88 C one. I'm not sure if this is the correct temp tho, but 82 seemed cold imo. Afterward the car ran much better, tho I heavily suspect that I have leaky injectors and bad injector seals. Ive also checked my throttle body and its covered in carbon... I might pull the entire intake manifold and do a full overall of the unit, I'll get a better access to both the WUR and metering plate/fuel distributor but I don't have the money for a rebuilt kit... arff. K Jet is great once set up right ! 240s equipped with it aren't that common (its more common in Europe than in the states + K Jet was ditched early in the states compared to Europe). Guys at VW and Mercedes guys are a good source of information when it comes to it, as a lot of their cars came with some variants of it. edit : the accumulator is pressurized after shut off, to prevent nasty vapor lock. And it does hold some pressure for more than 20min, once the car sat 3 days and it still had enough residual pressure to make a mess during the fuel filter change... |
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