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PV, 120 (Amazon), 1800 General Forum for the Volvo PV, 120 and 1800 cars |
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b16 engine overhaulViews : 16450 Replies : 148Users Viewing This Thread : |
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Dec 16th, 2019, 12:35 | #71 |
arcturus
Last Online: Today 08:52
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Location: Sagres Portugal
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Nice new shiny rings fitted, that should do wonders for compression and oil. Couldn't get on with ring spreader.In the end just wound the rings on in the old fashioned way. Anybody want a ring spreader? Just pay postage.
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life's too short to drink bad wine Last edited by arcturus; Dec 16th, 2019 at 12:39. |
Dec 18th, 2019, 17:00 | #72 |
arcturus
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Pistons fitted with new rings and bearings. At this stage how freely or not should should I be able to turn the engine over. It seems VERY tight at the moment. Is this to be expected?
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Dec 18th, 2019, 18:09 | #73 |
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Hi, I’m no expert , having only rebuilt one engine, and that was 40 years ago...
In the picture of your pistons with rings, the one on the left, the gap in the ring looks somewhat large. AFAIK the gap should be smaller? Given your difficulty installing the rings, and the tightness of the engine, may be helpful to re check that you’ve got the correct rings? |
Dec 18th, 2019, 20:39 | #74 |
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As you install each piston the piston ring drag on the cylinder walls will increase, and the torque required to turn the crankshaft will increase accordingly. The piston drag from all four pistons is significant.
Did you hone the cylinder bores? Normally required for proper ring break in. I've used a flex hone, also known as a dingleberry hone. You don't mention, so hopefully your machine shop did it for you. Problem is that it really contaminates the engine - especially once you've already installed the crank. The bores should look like this. Note the cross hatching. https://i.imgur.com/j4x54wG.jpg I suppose you can keep your fingers crossed if you haven't honed, but I'd be more inclined to disassemble, hone and reinstall. Shouldn't take that long now that you have everything more or less measured and fitted. Last edited by blueosprey90; Dec 18th, 2019 at 21:00. |
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Dec 18th, 2019, 21:42 | #75 |
arcturus
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Yes all nicely honed.I noticed that it really tightened op on number four so removed it, checked the gaping which was Ok and re installed a bit more carefully and equally on tightening nuts. Better now. If I had an air rattle "rattle gun"I would run it over for five or so min's.Just have to do it by hand.
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Dec 20th, 2019, 11:51 | #76 |
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When I had my 1961 B16 rebuilt back in the sixties I had to stick a 12v battery on it to get it to turn over at a reasonable speed. It did quickly loosen up though even before I gave it it's first start. Did get a new 6v battery to give it some help and after about 50 miles it was OK. The engine reconditioner refitted the crank and pistons and I replaced the rest of the engine on a stand in front of the spares counter at the dealers. It gave the customers something to look at. I worked in the evenings and put the keys back through the letterbox. When the engine was complete they refitted it to the car and I had it towed back to my garage for final loose ends. Volvo dealers were rare in 1966!
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Dec 20th, 2019, 14:50 | #77 |
arcturus
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It' always a bit of a worry when there is nobody experienced close by to give you advice. Seem to remember similar when I fitted new rings to 144
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Dec 20th, 2019, 17:51 | #78 |
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"The engine reconditioner refitted the crank and pistons and I replaced the rest of the engine on a stand in front of the spares counter at the dealers. It gave the customers something to look at."
I like that idea! In September, I was vintage racing and learned that one of the other competitors had blown his head gasket and was done for the weekend. Next morning, I brought a head gasket from home and drafted my "crew" to tear into the top end of his engine. A small crowd gathered, ebbing and flowing, and watching with great interest. By the afternoon race, his engine was back together and a satisfied crowd of on-lookers was giving us high fives and slaps on the back. |
Dec 21st, 2019, 14:29 | #79 |
arcturus
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It seems that the bearing on number four big end bearing is too tight and pinching.OK until I torque it up. I will remove and ease with some very fine rubbing paper. May not be the best thing to do but I will have to "suck it and see"
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Dec 21st, 2019, 15:14 | #80 |
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In the US, the shops carry something called Plastigauge that is used to measure the clearances in a situation like yours. You might do well to order some or find something similar in your country.
https://www.plastigaugeusa.com/how-it-works.html Make sure your bearings are properly seated. Make sure you have lateral clearance and that the side of the bearing is not dragging against the crankshaft. It's possible that you might just have to twist the rod a little bit to square it up. You might see some shiny areas on your bearings. Those would represent high spots. I'm not sure what you mean by rubbing paper, but I wouldn't use any grit based abrasive on the bearing face. The grit will get in the bearing. Use a Scotch Brite nylon pad instead. I would try using wet, maybe a bit of oil, before going dry. Maybe work the back of the bearing???? So it sits in a little deeper. See https://thetonerooms.com/threads/sco...it-chart.3674/ Although a little late, if you can measure the thickness of your bearings with a micrometer and if they are not all exactly the same thickness, you might just be able to swap them around to find a little bit of dimensional clearance. Last edited by blueosprey90; Dec 21st, 2019 at 15:21. |
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