Amazon: headlights

[simonvolvo]

Now that you have the switch out of the car, rig up a test circuit. Connect terminal 30 to the plus pole of a car battery, and connect a headlamp bulb (something that will take the full headlamp current) between terminal 56 and the minus pole of the battery. Pull the switch and see what happens. Does it work? Does the terminal heat up (it shouldn’t)? If it works and doesn’t heat up you will have eliminated the switch as the source of your problem.

If there is a problem with the switch you can, with a bit of patience, open it up and may be able to repair it.

See:

http://www.volvoforums.org.uk/showthread.php?t=259088

[Ron Kwas]

jpws;

+1 to Simon's info, but I'd like to elaborate and explain...what he is suggesting is a live test with actual current levels (because a poor connection will often test fine for continuity at a low DVM test current, but once installed into the actual circuit and with actual (high) operating current passing through it, the resistance connection will drop significant voltage, dissipate power, and get hot as a result, resulting secondary damage, and this is consistent with your findings).

Note the rivets securing contacts into switch housing...this is similar in design to the 122 Fuseblock, (See: http://www.sw-em.com/gastight.htm ) so can exhibit similar failure modes after so many years (but they can also be repaired perfectly fine in the same way as the FBs)...I recommend you locate the precise source of heat...carefully...maybe with an IR temp scanner!

A poor connection will exhibit a voltage drop which you can measure with a DVM (but only under load-on condition because that is when current is flowing!). This can be an old loose crimp where wire into crimped part is oxidized, or one (or more) of those rivets in the switch itself...once you locate it, take detailed pix and post...we can make repair recommendations. Hope this explanation helps...

Good Hunting

Reference: http://www.sw-em.com/an_automotive_e...ance%20heating

[jpws]

Many thanks everyone for your suggestions. Something I'll tackle this weekend and let you know how I got on.

[V70R4me]

I am battling similar issues with my 1968 Volvo Amazon headlights. Here's were I am at:
- I do get 12 volts at the black wire on the headlight switch
- I also get 12 volts at the yellow wire when I turn the headlight switch to on
- I have continuity going from the switch to the headlights
- As a test, I disconnected the wire harness before the headlights (at the upper radiator support area) and I supplied power to the red wire. Doing this lights the headlights.
- My tail lights and brake lights work
- My parking lights and blinker lights do not work

As a side note, I do not see a headlight relay anywhere on this car. Where should I look?

I should also mention that I am "electrically challenged" :-) I've gotten this far, but I will need help from someone that understands electrical systems better than me to get this sorted out. Thanks in advance for the help!!!

[V70R4me]

Found my issue. Was just a bad dimmer switch. I removed half of the back cover, sprayed terminal cleaner in it then clicked it a bunch of times. It was still sticky, so I sprayed penetrating oil in it, and clicked it some more. Cleaned all the contacts, reinstalled and viola!!! :-)

So now I have headlights, taillights, brake lights, but no turn signal lights. Any suggestions on the turn signal lights would be greatly appreciated!!!

[Derek UK]

You might want to check to see if you do have a blinker relay fitted. Small round alloy can up under the dash. Might be hanging, might be in a clip.

[V70R4me]

There is a round aluminum relay mounted to the inner fender on the driver side. How can I test to see if this relay is actually working properly?

[Ron Kwas]

V70...;

Headlights and Markerlights (incl. Instrument lighting) are not fused...Directional Signals on the other hand are...always try to divide and conquer electrical issues when possible... Maybe this will help with Directionals: http://www.sw-em.com/electrical_trou...onal%20Signals

You might want to have started a new thread with an appropriate title...it doesn't cost extra, but makes future searches more effective...

Good hunting!

Edit: Answer to function question of "round aluminum relay". First determine what function of this relay is...in an Amazon, it can be:
1. Backing Light (energizes BL when Ign On and Reverse is engaged), OR
2. Headlight Signaling (on Euro delivery vehicles or if retrofitted...energizes Highbeams when Signal Stalk is fulled toward driver) OR
3. Starter Enable Relay on vehicles with Auto Gearbox (allows Starting only in Neutral) .

Color code of Wiring Diagram is your friend as an alternate technique for troubleshooting non-function or determining function of relay in the first place. See: http://www.sw-em.com/122S%20Wiring%20Diagram.jpg

[Derek UK]

Originally Posted by Derek UK

You might want to check to see if you do have a blinker relay fitted. Small round alloy can up under the dash. Might be hanging, might be in a clip.

As I said the blinker relay is under the dash. That is the one that clicks as it blinks the indicator lights. The ones on the inner wing are as Ron has described and not related to your indicator problem.