Brake servo check valve wanted

[nozamaman]

I am trying to source for the brake servo the check valve for a 1970 145 the servo is the early one up to chassis numbers 178959 on 142s to 194139 on 144 and 61599 on 145s, the Volvo Part number 678407-8
the check valve is white Nylon and has three lugs at 120 degrees to fit into a matched opening in the servo housing. Later servos had a push fit check valve and are similar to later Volvo servos. the distinguishing feature of the servo is that it extends from the brake pedal forwards on the offside of the car (RHD) with the brake master cylinder in front of the servo body and the master cylinder is near the front panel almost up to beside the radiator,unlike the later 140 servos which the brake pedal movement is transfered across the firewall to the nearside (RHD) any help with sourcing this would be appreciated.

[arcturus]

http://www.vp-autoparts.com/main.asp...e&artno=687495

??

[WPR678B]

They say a picture says a 1000 words, well this is my 1970 145's servo (no rude comments about the rust thanks!)
I didn't want to remove the valve for fear of breaking it! It is very cold out there today!
I presume this is the type of servo in question?

[nozamaman]

[QUOTE=WPR678B;1359570]They say a picture says a 1000 words, well this is my 1970 145's servo (no rude comments about the rust thanks!)
I didn't want to remove the valve for fear of breaking it! It is very cold out there today!
I presume this is the type of servo in question?[yes many thanks]

[WPR678B]

No problem! Its good to hear of another 1970 145 survivor, and local too!

[arcturus]

The valve is only a tight push fit. BTW why do you want to replace it? Prise it out, it won't break unless you'r ham fisted. Just suck the pipe conection and you should hear it click back and forward. If you think you'r losing vac' it's usually where it plugs into the servo. A bit of silicon will seal it. It did with mine.

[arcturus]

Originally Posted by arcturus

The valve is only a tight push fit. BTW why do you want to replace it? Prise it out, it won't break unless you'r ham fisted. Just suck the pipe conection and you should hear it click back and forward. If you think you'r losing vac' it's usually where it plugs into the servo. A bit of silicon will seal it. It did with mine.

Thinking about it, just pull the vac pipe of the manifold and do the suck, listen for click test.

[nozamaman]

Originally Posted by arcturus

The valve is only a tight push fit. BTW why do you want to replace it? Prise it out, it won't break unless you'r ham fisted. Just suck the pipe conection and you should hear it click back and forward. If you think you'r losing vac' it's usually where it plugs into the servo. A bit of silicon will seal it. It did with mine.

Sorry but you are think of the later type of check valve my one has 3 lugs set at 120 degrees from each other which go into the females part of the servo body they changed in late 1970 or 1971 into the type you are talking about push fit

[arcturus]

No, I'm talking about my 69 144. The check valve is a push fit into the servo. Yes it is lugged to ensure a tight fit but it does pull out with a bit of help. As I said no need to remove it for test. Just disconnect the vac pipe from inlet manifold and suck. you should hear it click bask and forward.

[Derek UK]

It does appear that the type of valve changed around 1970. Maybe the saloons got the new type first. The later ones do just push into a rubber "bucket" that itself is inserted into the hole. The early one just has a rubber washer that is on the outside of the servo. The 3 lugs give a bayonet type of fit which pulls it up against the rubber washer. The vacumm also helps the seal but the later type needs very little help, an improvement over the bayonet type which can end up a bit loose when there is no vacumm. This can mean a leak that cannot be overcome by the vacumm to the servo from the manifold. If you look at the picture posted previously of the one on the 145 you can see that there is a sort of serration around the plastic which might be for a tool to twist it into place. Certainly it might be an identifier for the correct type, as the later ones are smooth. I haven't seen a picture of the 3 legged inside bit of the one required to compare with the ribbed later type.
The actual servo bodies are of different construction where the two sections are joined together. The early ones likely to be Girling but the later ones might be ATE.