'96 850 2.5 20v running very rich....

[sprocket]

Just tried testing on pin 1 ignition module and its showing 1-1-1 no fault

[rippedoffagain]

Originally Posted by sprocket

Hi Chris, yeah unplugged the maf and the car runs fine thus confirming it is the maf I presume? Or would unplugging the maf affect something else to enable the car to run better?
Thanks again

If the car runs the same without the MAF sensor as it does with it, it means the ECU is running off presents because it assumes the MAF is duff.

I'd reset the ECU before condemning the MAF though. I once had teh MAF related code because my ignition was kaput. The ECU had obviously taken readings from the MAF and readings from the everything else, then decided that the MAF must be lying given the amount of oxygen still present in the exhaust according to the lambda sensor. I don't know why it was, but I just know that sorting the ignition and resetting everything convinced the ECU that the MAF was fine after all. I went on to do many thousands of trouble free miles in that car.

[sprocket]

Car is undriveable with maf plugged in, once it's removed the car runs and drivers ok, have cleared all fault codes and tried running it with maf connected an fault code for faulty maf shows again after few minutes running

[kdan]

im getting the same codes as you but mines running fast!!! im also getting 4-1-1 code tps??

[rippedoffagain]

Originally Posted by sprocket

Car is undriveable with maf plugged in, once it's removed the car runs and drivers ok, have cleared all fault codes and tried running it with maf connected an fault code for faulty maf shows again after few minutes running

Ok, sounds like you have your answer then. That's unlucky. MAF sensors are not cheap.

Have you tried cleaning it? I believe you can get proper MAF sensor cleaner, but any 'no residue' electrical contact cleaner should be ok, especially as you can't make it worse if its duff.

Failing that I guess I'd be looking for a second hand one.

Before you do anything else though, I'd be looking to see if there is a good reason for it failing. I'd be looking to see if the air cleaner is doing its job ok. There's no chance of filth sneaking past the filter element? Also I don't know about the 850 but on the early 940s there was a flappy thermostat thingy in the air box that brought in warm air from near the exhaust manifold until the it warmed up, then it would switch to cold air from the front, but the thermostat would fail causing it to permanently take hot air, which some claim was hot enough to fry the MAF.

[sprocket]

Originally Posted by rippedoffagain

Ok, sounds like you have your answer then. That's unlucky. MAF sensors are not cheap.

Have you tried cleaning it? I believe you can get proper MAF sensor cleaner, but any 'no residue' electrical contact cleaner should be ok, especially as you can't make it worse if its duff.

Failing that I guess I'd be looking for a second hand one.

Before you do anything else though, I'd be looking to see if there is a good reason for it failing. I'd be looking to see if the air cleaner is doing its job ok. There's no chance of filth sneaking past the filter element? Also I don't know about the 850 but on the early 940s there was a flappy thermostat thingy in the air box that brought in warm air from near the exhaust manifold until the it warmed up, then it would switch to cold air from the front, but the thermostat would fail causing it to permanently take hot air, which some claim was hot enough to fry the MAF.

Cheers for the cleaner idea, hadn't thought about that one, yeah the 850 has the warm air flap in the filter box too, I'll check it's operating correctly as I don't to be forking out again for another maf!!!! Filter is fitted correctly with no gaps etc at edges. Thanks again

[byootox]

Originally Posted by Luxobarge

Very unlikely if the dash temperature guage is still reading correctly though. It could be faulty, but not enough to cause the symptoms the OP is seeing. Also if the CTS was faulty why would the car report a MAF code?

I'm with Chris R - having gone to the trouble of building a code reader I'd tend to believe it and now be looking at the MAF.

Cheers!

My bad Luxo somehow missed that post with the codes lol
However I've just done a bad coolant sensor on an s70 where it was toiling to start from cold with a flagged code but gauge would work !!
But yes the return of the fault codes is a very good indication.

[t+m]

if you dont have a stuck injector then you need to find out why the ecu is adding so much fuel and its probably because it thinks its very cold,like the previous poster said.So you could unplug the coolant temp sensor and see if the ecu just substitutes a hot engine value or you could back probe the sensor and see what the return voltage is and compare it to the spec.or just fit a new one,they are only cheap. Check the fuel pressure to see if its too high,there is a tyre-type valve on the end of the fuel rail.