240 General: Wheel bearing install query

[Juular]

Hi,

One of my front wheel bearings became noisy earlier in the week, so I got straight to it and pulled the old bearing out, following the procedure in the Haynes manual.

The inner race of the inner bearing was stuck solid onto the stub, so I had to cut most of the way through it to release it.

I've run into a problem installing the new bearings, in that they seem ridiculously tight on the stub. The Haynes advises simply to 'refit the new bearing on the stub'. Watching some videos, it looks like other people are simply pushing the new bearings onto the stub by hand with very little resistance.

This is not the case for me, in fact I had to lay the old bearing on top of the new one and tap it in with a hammer using quite considerable force. The outer bearing (under the hub nut) has exactly the same problem.

I thought I had it all together, but now the brake caliper cannot be refitted as the rotor doesn't appear to be sitting straight. Clearly the inner bearing isn't seated correctly.

So, the question is, is this level of force to be expected, and how do I know when the inner bearing is seated correctly?

[Clan]

Originally Posted by Juular

Hi,

One of my front wheel bearings became noisy earlier in the week, so I got straight to it and pulled the old bearing out, following the procedure in the Haynes manual.

The inner race of the inner bearing was stuck solid onto the stub, so I had to cut most of the way through it to release it.

I've run into a problem installing the new bearings, in that they seem ridiculously tight on the stub. The Haynes advises simply to 'refit the new bearing on the stub'. Watching some videos, it looks like other people are simply pushing the new bearings onto the stub by hand with very little resistance.

This is not the case for me, in fact I had to lay the old bearing on top of the new one and tap it in with a hammer using quite considerable force. The outer bearing (under the hub nut) has exactly the same problem.

I thought I had it all together, but now the brake caliper cannot be refitted as the rotor doesn't appear to be sitting straight. Clearly the inner bearing isn't seated correctly.

So, the question is, is this level of force to be expected, and how do I know when the inner bearing is seated correctly?

The inner race should be a hand fit over the stub axle , are the numbers the same on the bearings? Is the stub axle damaged anywhere preventing the bearing going on fully?

[Othen]

This may help:

https://www.volvoforums.org.uk/showp...postcount=2705

... I used a bearing press to replace the races - I recall they are a pretty tight fit, I think I used the old race as a buffer to get the new ones all the way in. Keep pressing until it won't move any more - certainly much more than finger tight!

Once the hub is back together it should just slip onto the stub axle, so it sounds like something may not be quite straight with the new races. The castle nut should pull it into place with little force (from memory 70 NM, then slacken off 1/3 turn).

Good fortune,

Alan

[Juular]

Thanks both.

The stub doesn't appear to be damaged. I might disassemble everything again then go over it with some fine sandpaper to make sure there's nothing to bind on.

The outer races (the ones that go into the hub itself) went in without any drama. I used a block of wood flat across the races then tapped them home with a rubber mallet. They are perfectly straight.

I'll check the numbers on the bearings this evening.

[Bob Meadows]

Sometimes a bearing can be heated (oven) to expand it:~
Shrinking the opposite part is also a benefit- obviously this part won't fit into the fridge but you could devise a method with some packed ice.

I've used the heat/shrink method on crown wheel & pinions plus half shafts, it is quite a common practice- work quickly whilst the bearing is still hot- don't overcook it though.
The above should help providing all parts are correct.
Good Luck.
Bob.

[Juular]

Cheers folks, got it sorted!

It turned out to be a combination of two things. Firstly, the stub must've had some debris or baked on rubbish that was causing the bearing to bind rather than slide on properly. I sanded it down with 300 - 400 - 600 grit paper and oiled it up, and the hub slid on nicely.

Secondly I noticed that the rubber seal that goes right on the inside had popped off and was jamming against the back of the bearing, preventing it from seating in place.

Wheel is now back on and everything seems fine.

[hennabm]

I had a similar experience when I changed mine back in n 2015.

I thought I had purchased the wrong bearings but found it was the stub that needed to be cleaned gently with 1500 grit and light oil. The bearings then slipped on a little easier.