Oil Breathers / flame trap...

[940Graeme]

OK, Dumb Question coming up but here goes......

Seen several threads on here concerning poor idle/oil on engine/strong smell of oil etc etc all of which my 940 2.3 LPT has! The remedy seems to be replace oil filler cap oil seal (done) and clean out the oil breathers/replace flame trap. So my, I hope not too dumb, question is ............HOW??!

I'm fairly handy with the spanners, but this is a new one on me, and needless to say, Haynes is silent on this point......

Hints/Tips or a full "how to" guide all gratefully received!
Thanks
Graeme.

[RealEstate]

See 900 FAQ - save you a fortune!
http://www.volvoclub.org.uk/faq/Engi...ion_A_Treatise

[barkster1971]

I'm sorting mine out on Monday. I've ordered a new oil trap as the one on the car gets brittle and can easily be damaged when removing it. I think it will be easier to remove with the inlet manifold out of the way and I can clean all the outlets properly. Mine is leaking oil from the front cam seal and when the dipstick is removed theres a lot of white vapour coming out. The pipe that goes over the cam cover goes into a plastic Y joint just under the manifold with a much smaller pipe from the manifold itself, The Y adapter can easily be removed and cleaned but will not have a white flame trap in it as it's a turbo. The new oil trap and seal cost £31 from Rufe.

[gpl1968]

You need to remove and clean/replace parts 1 to 8 in the above pic.
Part no.6 is what is referred to as the flame trap, but none of the turbo cars actually have a flame trap (Volvo removed them in the early 1990s).
Instead you have one of these:

The part number listed is correct for this piece (it is worth having one of these in stock as the narrow spur tends to snap off with age).

You will definately need a new o-ring for the base of the oil seperator (#2).

[940Graeme]

Thanks ALL!!

Why oh Why oh Why did I not just ask this question on the forum before I splashed out on a Haynes.......Still, it will be useful for something no doubt, wobbly table legs, swatting wasps.......

Seriously, thank you guys, that's my weekend sorted!

Graeme.

[RealEstate]

It's hard to clean the oil trap, item 1 in GPL's diag. Prob easier just to replace it.
And yes Haynes is still good to have!
All the best

[nickm]

One other place to check are the nipples on the inlet manifold.
The smaller pipe that goes to the elbow was completely clogged on my set-up when I got it.
Oh and you can remove the trap without removing the inlet manifold just a bit of jiggling around.

[wooble]

Likewise, the small pipe from manifold to flame trap as well as the nipple on the manifold were completely coked up solid on my car when I bought it. The car blew 2 litres of oil out of various seals in 300 miles. Cleaning the flame trap and PCV system stopped the leaks dead. I had to replace one O-ring on the breather box below he flame trap, and since them I've used NO oil in 4000 miles.

[Mikeymo]

I would replace that plastic Y shaped thing. When I was scrapping my 940 Classic (boo hoo!) I swapped various things over from that to my CD 940. The little outlet on the plastic thing broke off. I think the whole thing gets brittle with age.

I'm using about 1 litre of oil every 1700 miles. Might be turbo oil seals, but first I'm going to do the 'cleaning the PCV' thing. How easy is it to get the Inlet Manifold off? I can do all the pipes with it in place, and most of the talk is of the pipes, especially the small one, being blocked, rather that the oil seperator itself.

[gpl1968]

You don't have to remove the inlet manifold. It can be fiddly but the trap will lift out once the bolt and hoses are removed.
Don't be tempted to play with the rubber drain pipe in the block (small hole in block) as you have to remove the sump to replace it.