Ignition Module and other thoughts

[James_N]

Originally Posted by Laird Scooby

I'd go for the simple stuff first James, also worth remembering that unless they suffer catastrophic failure, ignition amplifier modules generally only give trouble when they're hot. The way you've described this fault it's from cold, clears slightly once warm then throws the occasional wobbler.

This all suggests a random pattern, except when cold. When it's cold, any of the condensation in the tank will have settled at the bottom, where the pick-up is.

Even when a car is in regular use, it can still accumulate condensation in the tank in a fairly short period. I had to dose my Volvo with meths a couple of months back because of condensation in the tank and that gets used almost every day for at least one trip, albeit a short one.

Give that a try first, it's the most logical given the circumstances.

I'll get the battery reconnected over the next week or two whenever i have chance and put some in. Is it best to start it or can i just put some in and not start it for a bit?

It actually starts playing up when it gets warm though. it will idle fine when cold (imagine a choke is on!) then when it starts warming up, is when the problems start but i'll deffo try the meths thing first!

[Laird Scooby]

Originally Posted by James_N

I'll get the battery reconnected over the next week or two whenever i have chance and put some in. Is it best to start it or can i just put some in and not start it for a bit?

It actually starts playing up when it gets warm though. it will idle fine when cold (imagine a choke is on!) then when it starts warming up, is when the problems start but i'll deffo try the meths thing first!

Just put the meths in the tank and run it James. As long as you only have about 1/4 tank maximum in there you should be ok with 2L of meths. Toolstation is about the cheapest place to buy a 2L bottle of meths.

https://www.toolstation.com/shop/Pai...+Spirit/p99550

Most places charge about £3.50 for 500ml so it's half price by comparison.

[James_N]

Slight update, I added some meths and started it up, but it still stalled.

I still have the new parts from when i was last fault finding and it occoured to me that since the starting problems were cured by a new dizzy cap / rotor arm, i might as well fit the new MAF that was in the boot just to see if that makes a difference and i'm pleased to say that the car now doesn't cut out. it will start from cold, idle around 1,000rpm but then as it warms up, the idle starts to drop and you can see the needle just fluttering about, just fluctuating slightly.

Now i do know on this car i have a few manifold gaskets that have blown out. I'm hoping this accounts for the tappety noise i get when reving the car, and as the revs come back down again but nowhere seems to want to replace these manifold gaskets (i guess the manifold is a pain to get off?!)

Anyway i digress. I had the car idling for a long time (much longer than when it was cutting out!) so i think thats one problem solved.

The idle however, is still low. and when hot starting the car again, it idled around 500rpm (didnt stall, but idle is too low) and the needle stutters very slightly.

I'm guessing next step is to clean the Idle control valve / throttle body? Ive read about removing the idle control valve and it looks simple enough. I'll also check my hoses for any leaks or splits.

Anything else i should be checking?

Many THanks

[Laird Scooby]

The meths will carry on working to get rid of any condensation in the tank James but from what you've described, cleaning the ICV would be a good idea. COsts very little to do and might well bring about a good result.

[James_N]

Thanks Dave. I've just removed it from the car. Not sure what I'm looking at or for but is there any particular method of cleaning it or do I just soak it in throttle body cleaner and just generally make it sparkle again?

Is there any way of testing it's operation now it's off the car? Or shall I just clean it and put it back on and see what gives?

Thanks
James

[James_N]

Just been watching a few YouTube videos and one guy shook his ICV and it made a fairly decent house but when he cleaned it, it rattled even more freely. I tried this with mine and there was a very faint but very poor slight rattle. I guess this is by no means conclusive but probably confirms the need for a good clean?

[Laird Scooby]

I wouldn't say it's conclusive James but could well be a symptom. Usually i've just sprayed carb and air intake cleaner into the valve and let it soak. Not having had a B230 with one on and on the B280E it's above the manifold/throttle body, i've just disconnected the inlet hose from it, given it a good squirt, cleaned a few other bits like the stubs on the inlet manifold for the various vacuum connections etc, started the car and then given it another squirt while running.

Also cleaned the throttle body in a similar way but that's the useful thing about the cars i've owned, they've always been easy access for things like that.

[Clan]

Originally Posted by James_N

Hi All,

My Volvo has been off the road for some time now. It broke down and as i'm sure all of you are aware, i spent weeks trying to trace the problem and tracked it down to dizzy cap / rotor arm, which were replaced.

It then needed tyres and brakes which i haven't been able to afford due to moving house but in the coming months, i'm hoping to get it running again.

However, i'm still suffering a stalling problem.

The car starts fine (ive took the battery off though as it went flat and its a nearly new battery). So car starts fine and idles ok (bit of hunting but idles ok). After about 10 mins, its got up to temperature, but then will randomly stall.

If you are quick enough on the gas, you can give it some, and this stops it stalling, but its pretty instant, one min it will be idling OK, the next, it will die. When it was on the road, it also liked cutting out once the clutch was dipped, so at Junctions / roundabouts etc.

Recently before it was parked up, its had:

New exhaust from CAT back
New crank position sensor
Spark plugs
ignition leads
dizzy cap / rotor arm

It was running great up until the stalling, very reliable. I need to know where to go from here really. Ive debated breaking it, but its been a great car to me and i'd like to see it back on the road.

I had a similar problem with my 740 years back, so i wondered if the ignition module was a good place to start, and wondered if anyone had a known good working one i could borrow (or buy if its a spare!) just to see if thats the culprit.

Where / what else do i look at?

The car also needs four new tyres and a set of front brakes, so plenty of money to spend on it, but i'd like to see it back on the road soon (probably going to be oct / nov before i can sort the tyres and brakes and get it properly on the road but if i can sort the stalling issue while ive got time, that would be great. Any ideas welcomed.

Many Thanks
James

I would clean inside the throttle housing first as it may be blocking idle airflow , then make sure the constant idle system is working , the throttle flap and position sensor may need adjusting . , maybe the idle air control valve isn't working ...

[James_N]

Right thanks to the very good guide on here, I have removed he throttle body (see attached pictures!) Fair to say it needs cleaning. Existing gasket looks fine to reuse as I was gentle pulling the throttle body off. The only problem I had was when getting the two intake hoses off on the top of the throttle body. I undid the clips and the hoses wouldn't budge so I pulled them a little and they snapped! As you can see in the pictures, the intake hose is literally welded itself to the throttle body. I'm wondering if I'll have enough length of hose left to get this welded hose off the throttle body and use the existing length of hose to reattach.

Off to halfords to buy some Wynn's throttle body cleaner bow!

[James_N]

photos as they wouldnt upload: