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700/900 Series General Forum for the Volvo 740, 760, 780, 940, 960 & S/V90 cars |
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13 years since an MOTViews : 8348 Replies : 50Users Viewing This Thread : |
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Oct 4th, 2020, 12:55 | #11 |
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Don't shoot me down guys.....but,if it turns over ok by hand I would just inspect the timing belt and tensioner with the front cover off and if it looks ok I would just start it after soaking the bores. Run for a minute or two and then do timing belt if it's a worthwhile vehicle to re commission.
Above is based on the engine being a non interference Redblock of course
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Oct 4th, 2020, 13:09 | #12 | |
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Like Tony said, the timing gears can grow rust on them, the tensioner can seize and/or the bearings can Brinnel, neither of which would be helful to it starting and while things may look/feel ok by hand, they change rapidly when they suddenly start turning. The belt itself is long overdue for changing purely on time, never mind the fact it will have adopted the position it was left in and lost 90% of its flexibility, not to mention becoming brittle due to time. Not so much a case of shooting you down - more a case of pointing out things you may not have considered fully. There are other factors as well and not knowing the OPs background/mechanical abilities/aptitude and how peculair Volvos can be on certain things, all the other advice given above has very much been on the "play it safe" side. Those more experienced with the red block would probably say exactly the same as you and to a point, i nearly did as well. Then i thought about it, the OP is the same age as my 760 and was only 1 when the car he's about to revive was bought new. For the minimal extra effort involved in playing it safe, it's worth it to protect what for him is a family heirloom.
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Oct 4th, 2020, 13:29 | #13 |
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I had considered those things Dave. I was mainly thinking that not knowing the OP's mechanical skills the timing belt replacement might not be a job they would want to undertake. My cars timing belt and tensioner was older than that and I was surprised how smooth the bearings were when I removed it.
Just a thought to get it started rather than chucking money at it if it's rotten
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Oct 4th, 2020, 14:05 | #14 | |
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Unless i'm mistaken, your car had been in use fairly regularly before you bought it? This one hasn't and it doesn't always take long for a bearing to Brinnel. I've got one on my 760, on the A/C belt idler pulley. Completely seized. Previous owner had the A/C evaporator removed for no good reason ( he claimed it was blocked as nothing was coming out of the heater, hot or cold. Turned out to be the vacuum solenoids and dry joints causing that problem) and as such, the compressor wasn't in use. The adjuster had been backed off so it wouldn't drive the compressor even if the compressor clutch was engaged. Another thing i have to replace due to misguided diagnoses on this car and before i can (hopefully) revive the A/C system! However i have digressed - this back and forth between us gives the OP both sides of the options so they can do whichever they like with the risk of stripping/snapping the belt if it's not replaced beforehand. From the comment somewhere above about climibing on the cold leather seats as a kid, i'd guess it's a 740GLE so would have the B230E in that case, most likely with the ZF4HP22 gearbox hung on the back. Could be wrong and time will tell though!
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Oct 4th, 2020, 14:56 | #15 |
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My car had been sitting for six years Dave ( although it was in dry storage ). My timing belt was 13 years old
Let's hope all goes well and I'm looking forward to the outcome
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Oct 4th, 2020, 15:27 | #16 | |
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All this talk of timing belt intervals and replacement has reminded me my Rover is a little over due. The interval is 96k miles/8 years but it's only done about 18k miles since the last change. I have another belt and tensioner spring (it's only used to tension the belt then locked off for the rest of its life but is extremely important to change it!) and thankfully the water pump isn't due (they tend to develop a leak around 120k miles, sometimes sooner and are a service item at 120k) so i can get away with just the belt and spring for now. Just don't fancy doing it yet as there's very little space to do it and it's cold, wet and horrible out there! Unlike a red block, it takes 8-12 hours to change on the Rover, about 5-7 in a workshop with lifts. First time i did one took nearly 3 weeks as it was November, changeable weather and often i'd get the tools out, make a start and the heavens would open.
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Oct 7th, 2020, 22:12 | #17 |
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For the price of a timing belt, I'd go with the advice above to put a new one on before starting the engine. Perhaps take the belt off, spin the tensioner and if it turns freely without graunching, fit a new belt and proceed?
For what it's worth, the B200E definitely isn't non-interference. How do I know? Because I've just finished replacing the exhaust valves that got bent when the timing belt snapped... Best of luck with it, hope it all works out well!
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Oct 7th, 2020, 22:42 | #18 | |
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Oct 7th, 2020, 22:47 | #19 |
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Just found this
B230 Series Engines: Do I Have an Interference Engine? [Editor] An "interference" engine is one in which the tops of the pistons and the valves may collide if the timing belt breaks or is misaligned. If you have an interference engine, you MUST change your timing belt on schedule or else you risk very expensive damage. You must also pay closer attention to the condition of the tensioners, pulley bolts, and front seals: anything that can cause the belt to fail prematurely must be repaired quickly. Not all Volvo engines are non-interference. [Colin Shepherd/Peter Milnes] "Interference" Engines: B200 series (including E, F, G, FT, GT) B230E (high-compression B230 sold outside of North America) B204 series (including E, F, FT, GT) B234 series (including F, G) All B5XXX five-cylinder inline engines and 6XXX six-cylinder engines The B230 series is non-interference with the exception of the B230E.
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Oct 8th, 2020, 07:00 | #20 | |
Go redblock or go home
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