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700/900 Series General Forum for the Volvo 740, 760, 780, 940, 960 & S/V90 cars |
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13 years since an MOTViews : 8361 Replies : 50Users Viewing This Thread : |
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Oct 8th, 2020, 18:12 | #21 |
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Oct 8th, 2020, 18:34 | #22 |
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A 740 B200E is K-Jetronic Tony and the 360 B200E is L/LE-Jetronic. I forget the usual carb definitions, but B20A/B21A/B19A were all fairly commonly used, a belive the B200K was the carbuerettor version of the updated carb engine.
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Oct 8th, 2020, 18:54 | #23 | |
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Quote:
Joking aside ...... on reading further I think it looks like you can get away with it sometimes.
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Oct 8th, 2020, 23:47 | #24 |
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In my case, two exhaust valves were clearly bent - about 10 degrees. One I couldn't make my mind up, and one was fine. There was one slight witness mark on the piston crown from an inlet valve, but the valve seemed fine. So I've changed all of the exhausts, and left the inlets.
About 10 years ago, I changed the head gasket, and had the head skimmed to remove some slight pitting. So that may have had an effect on the degree of interference, I guess.
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1989 740 GL 2.0 estate 2000 V40 2.0 (gone) 2005 Toyota Avensis 2.0 estate (gone) 2012 Ford Mondeo 2.2 TDCi estate 1999 Land Rover Discovery 2 TD5 |
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Oct 9th, 2020, 00:04 | #25 | |
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However that's just supposition on my part so i could be wrong. I have heard of several B200x engines that have lunched their valves. The acid test on your dubious inlet valve would have been if you were able to lap it in and get a consistent width on the valve seat/valve - if so then it wasn't bent.
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Oct 9th, 2020, 00:47 | #26 |
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I did just that, and as far as I could tell (bearing in mind this was my first experience of lapping in valves), I was able to get a consistent width. Quite satisfying! So I did indeed conclude it wasn't bent.
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1989 740 GL 2.0 estate 2000 V40 2.0 (gone) 2005 Toyota Avensis 2.0 estate (gone) 2012 Ford Mondeo 2.2 TDCi estate 1999 Land Rover Discovery 2 TD5 |
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Apr 18th, 2021, 19:50 | #27 |
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Hi everyone!
A slightly longer post below but I thought I'd update you all on progress so far. Since originally posting my grandma passed away and at 94 years of age, I'd say that was a fine innings. I now have even more determination to get the family wagon back on the road. As a quick refresher, this 740 estate was bought new by my grandparents back in 1989, a year after I was born. It was used until my grandad died in 2008 and it's been sitting on the drive ever since. I went to the car this weekend (it's taken a little longer than I had hoped for) to check out the situation and it's a hefty drive from where I live so not something I can do regularly. I effectively had a day and half to get it running with no knowledge of what would be wrong with it. I was shocked at the condition of the car underneath the algae, moss, dirt and general foliage covering it....shocked in a good way! I found the tiniest section of rust near the tailgate and that was it; the rest of the car was solid. The black leather interior was also in great condition. However, to cut a long story short I could only fire up the engine on easy start. So there was obviously a problem with fuel delivery and couldn't hear any sign of the main fuel pump working. I was getting current to the fuel pump but no pumping so I needed a replacement. I also hooked it up directly to the battery and still nothing. Clearly I couldn't get anything on short notice and on a Saturday so I removed the unit and carrier and spent the rest of the time doing what I could to get it MOT ready. I got all the lights working through a combination of replacement bulbs and cleaning up connections so I think I got quite lucky there. Washers and wipers work (although I need to replace the actual wipers but that's a nice easy job), seatbelts looked ok etc and it was all looking a bit better. However, I jacked up each side and couldn't rotate any of the wheels by hand. Any advice on how I overcome this? The handbrake had not been left on luckily in the years it's been on the drive. I gave it a quick clean (the most satisfying pressure washing I've ever done) and I think its come up surprisingly well - some before and after pics attached I hope. I'm looking forward to going over it cosmetically more detail once its been through an MOT. So the plan now: - Get replacement in line fuel pump and fit to carrier which I have with me - Should I also get a replacement sender unit? Should I have heard that when turning on ignition? - Get replacement wipers - Head back up there > fit the above with some new tyres too > sail through MOT(!) Thanks all, wish me luck!! Fred Before.jpg After.jpg |
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Apr 18th, 2021, 20:21 | #28 |
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You seem to have a good base for a rolling resto there Fred, with the brakes, chances are the discs have rusted, pads have rusted and the calipers have siezed.
Several ways of doing it, clean the discs with a rotary wire brush in a drill, remove the pads, give the friction face a scuff with the rotary brus and clean the edges and back with the rotary brush. Remove the slide pins (this is assuming single piston sliding calipers and give them the wire brush treatment too, grease the pins with either silicone grease or copper grease and apply some to the metal back of the pads and the metal edges of them too. Then you need to renew the brake fluid - i'll explain that in greater detail once we know what you've decided to do. Second method is new pads and discs all round and free off the calipers. Third is reconditioned calipers, new pads and discs. If the underbody pump has siezed, chances are the in-tank pump has also siezed. Rock Auto in the USA will be your wallets friend for these! Visit Volvo for a fuel tank seal (~£11) as teh chances of it not leaking are somewhere between none and slim. I'll explain Volvo Gynacology 101 when you're nearer the time of doing it, aka changing the in tank pump. https://www.rockauto.com/ Little tip for Rock Auto, go for the FedEx shipping as they charge you customs and deliver direct to your door. The other carriers ship it in to the country, Customs sit on it for a few days then decide how much Import VAT you should pay (and if it's over £100, Import Duty as well) then send a card via Royal Mail to pay the customs charges online. Royal Mail charge £8 for the privilege! Then eventually the goods are released and turn up at your door. The FedEx option might seem pricey at first but it saves a whole heap of grief and time for you. Also it means you don't get caught by currency fluctuations on things costing about £15 - you only have to pay Import VAT on invoice value of £15 or more. The day i bought some items, they equated to something silly like £14.86 so was puzzled when i got a card from Royal Mail telling me i had to pay £3.16 + £8 collection fee to Customs/Royal Mail. The $ amount on the invoice had stayed the same but the exchange rate had changed making them £15.80 so i had to pay Import VAT.
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Apr 18th, 2021, 20:27 | #29 |
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Sorry if I've missed something, a lot of posts on here, but won't the fuel have gone stale or have condensation in it, hence the non-start?
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[IMG]Volvo2 by Strider'swoman, on Flickr[/IMG] Current '96 945 2.3 lpt - Aurigas, tailgate spoiler, sports grille, lpg fuelled Previous '88 764 TD, '92 945 TD, '88 745, '81 244 DL |
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Apr 18th, 2021, 20:31 | #30 | |
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Quote:
I'm hoping he's already added some fresh fuel and i forgot to mention it but it sounds as if both fuel pumps have siezed anyway.
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Cheers Dave Next Door to Top-Gun with a Honda CR-V & S Type Jag Volvo gone but not forgotten........ |
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