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AW70 first gear

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Old Jan 28th, 2018, 21:19   #1
blueblock
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Default AW70 first gear

Over the past couple of weeks the AW70 in my 240 (B200F, 147000 miles) has suddenly started taking longer to shift out of first into second when started from cold. The shifts aren't rough, but the length of time the gear is held is abnormal.
I wasn't too concerned about that, since from the 2nd stop and pulling away it would be fine. However, today, after a long (~4 hours) motorway journey during which the car ran faultlessly, the transmission stopped shifting DOWN into first when I came to a stop with the lever in D, and starting off in second. The interesting thing is that putting the lever into the 1 position worked absolutely fine and it would pull away in first as normal.
When I arrived I checked the ATF level to see if that was the problem, and while the level is fine, it does look pretty brown. Could my problem be that the ATF is knackered and it needs a good flush with some new stuff to get flowing properly again and putting the car into first without prompting from the gearstick? This has been on my list for a while since I don't know when it was last done (only had the car 4 months) but I haven't had the chance to do it as yet.
If not that, is this a problem that anyone else has had with the AW70/71? I'd be interested to hear.
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Old Jan 29th, 2018, 00:23   #2
DW42
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I have one AW70 that does this and one that doesn't. Changing the ATF, cleaning the screen, and replacing the ATF with synthetic may help. It certainly helped on mine, but 5 years on it's back to late shifting (especially from 1 to 2), and I need to change the fluid again.

Cleaning the screen is controversial: Volvo issued a technical service bulletin saying it's not necessary, and many have opened the pan to find the screen is not clogged at all, and they were wasting their time opening the pan. Others say they've found gunk in the screen...
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Old Jan 30th, 2018, 22:59   #3
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blueblock,

I'm pretty sure I posted about this a couple of years back, so use the search facility. You can drain off the atf and filter it, clean the pan and the strainer ... just as a start point.

As far as I recall you cannot completely flush the box as about 6 liters stays in the converter.

It's a time consuming, messy and frustrating process and I eventually binned the auto box and converted to manual
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Old Jan 31st, 2018, 23:12   #4
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A quick way to discover whether fresh ATF will make a difference to driveability would be to buy a Pela pump (or similar) and pump the ATF out of the dipstick tube. If you have the level correct already, simply add the same amount of new fluid as what you removed. Repeat a few weeks later. This won't get the screen clean but will get some of the fluid in the torque converter.

I believe that shifting problems such as those you describe are usually caused by a worn valve body, which often improves with a fluid change.
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Old Feb 1st, 2018, 10:01   #5
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Thanks for the responses guys - I've had a think, and decided to flush it and clean it and see where that leaves me. I'm snowed under with work at the moment so I rang a local transmission specialist and they quoted me £140 for a full service including ATF change, new gasket and filter, which I don't think is too bad. So we'll see how it goes! The thing that concerns me more is the not returning to first gear at a stop in D, which does suggest something may be up with the valvetrain.
Anyway, hopefully the service will keep it going for a while and then I'll consider my options!
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Old Feb 1st, 2018, 11:59   #6
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Blueblock,

I had a similar problem with slow changing up from first when I first got my 240 about 20K miles ago. It took two or three ATF flushes before it was changing nicely (the fluid it came with was basically black, not good) but since then it hasn't been an issue so yeah, ATF change will definitely help. The changing down issue on the other hand is a good head scratcher. Have fun with it!

Cheers

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Old Feb 5th, 2018, 19:01   #7
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Other thing to look at is the kickdown cable which plays a part in determining upshifts as well as kickdown as it's linked to the throttle cable.

When mine stretched and eventually broke the car would hang on to 1st much longer than normal.
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Old Feb 7th, 2018, 22:30   #8
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Well, I've had the car back from the shop two days now and it's gradually settling back down to normal - second gear is coming in quicker on cold starts and first gear is there again when I stop.
The fella at the garage told me it looked like the box had never been serviced before (why don't people look after their cars?!!!!) and the amount of gunk in it was probably affecting the operation of the governor, so in the end I'm glad I bit the bullet and had it professionally done - well worth it to have it properly cleaned and the filter and gasket done too. Now I just need to fix my overdrive relay...
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Old Feb 8th, 2018, 06:22   #9
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The cost of an overdrive relay isn't much different from the cost of a bypass plate for it. When my overdrive failed I chose the IPD bypass kit, as I never actually use the OD lockout button on the shifter. Also meant that I didn't need to diagnose the fault, as I was simply disabling the ability to disengage overdrive.
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