Coolant temp sensor

EWAN J · Aug 5th, 2009, 13:36

Hello everyone
My first post apart from that is a question I own an old '96 440 GS 1.8
and have bought a component off ebay which will supposedly up my power by a few HP. The component looks like a ceramic resistor or something similar. Its supposed to get connected accross the terminal oF the AIR INTAKE TEMP SENSOR but as that is part of a 4 wire plug on the injector unit , it reccommends that the alternative connection should be accross the coolant temperature sensor...there are a couple of sensors I can see on the front of the engine one slightly off-centre to the left and the other just below the distributor on the right hand side of the block...is it either one of those (my haynes manual isn't very helpful or clear on this point).
Help please
Thanks EWAN

GTMaster · Aug 5th, 2009, 17:13

Isn't this one of those sensors that makes the ECU "think" that the engine or the intake air is cooler than normal?
If i remember correctly the water temp. sensor is near the sump ventilation canister (at the front of the engine on the right hand side. The other one has a bolt in it which is the knock sensor).

jlgrosvenor · Aug 20th, 2009, 16:34

By 'fooling' the ECU, you injection system will add more fuel that required. With this addition you will use more fuel, damage the catalytic convertor with soot and fail MOT testing. The soot may also clog up the spark plugs quickly.
On the plus side, you may be able to convince yourself that you can feel the awesome increase of 1 or 2 horsepower.

I think you would have better improvements by making sure the brakes are in good working order (and lubricated on the slide pins), using a decent synthetic engine oil and using a new, clean airfilter + spark plugs if they haven't been changed for a while.

One thing to note that I found out the hard way.
The old seals in the 440/460 were not designed with the detergent capabilities of modern oils in mind. When I switched to a very new oil (something like API SM specification) it is a bit agressive on the seals, meaning they get cleaned to hell and start leaking. I have ended up taking the engine out and replacing all the engine seals - otherwise I was getting through (dropping) 2 litres of oil every few hundred miles.

GTMaster · Aug 20th, 2009, 20:16

Hi jlgrosvenor, is your Volvo back to normal?

Aug 5th, 2009, 13:36	#1
EWAN J New Member Last Online: Aug 5th, 2009 13:39 Join Date: Aug 2009 Location: STEVENAGE	Coolant temp sensor Hello everyone My first post apart from that is a question I own an old '96 440 GS 1.8 and have bought a component off ebay which will supposedly up my power by a few HP. The component looks like a ceramic resistor or something similar. Its supposed to get connected accross the terminal oF the AIR INTAKE TEMP SENSOR but as that is part of a 4 wire plug on the injector unit , it reccommends that the alternative connection should be accross the coolant temperature sensor...there are a couple of sensors I can see on the front of the engine one slightly off-centre to the left and the other just below the distributor on the right hand side of the block...is it either one of those (my haynes manual isn't very helpful or clear on this point). Help please Thanks EWAN Last edited by EWAN J; Aug 5th, 2009 at 13:39.

Aug 5th, 2009, 17:13	#2
GTMaster Senior Member Last Online: Nov 7th, 2016 22:32 Join Date: Sep 2008 Location: Melbourne	Isn't this one of those sensors that makes the ECU "think" that the engine or the intake air is cooler than normal? If i remember correctly the water temp. sensor is near the sump ventilation canister (at the front of the engine on the right hand side. The other one has a bolt in it which is the knock sensor). Last edited by GTMaster; Aug 5th, 2009 at 17:15.

Aug 20th, 2009, 16:34	#3
jlgrosvenor Member Last Online: Aug 25th, 2016 13:11 Join Date: Aug 2006 Location: Chesterfield	By 'fooling' the ECU, you injection system will add more fuel that required. With this addition you will use more fuel, damage the catalytic convertor with soot and fail MOT testing. The soot may also clog up the spark plugs quickly. On the plus side, you may be able to convince yourself that you can feel the awesome increase of 1 or 2 horsepower. I think you would have better improvements by making sure the brakes are in good working order (and lubricated on the slide pins), using a decent synthetic engine oil and using a new, clean airfilter + spark plugs if they haven't been changed for a while. One thing to note that I found out the hard way. The old seals in the 440/460 were not designed with the detergent capabilities of modern oils in mind. When I switched to a very new oil (something like API SM specification) it is a bit agressive on the seals, meaning they get cleaned to hell and start leaking. I have ended up taking the engine out and replacing all the engine seals - otherwise I was getting through (dropping) 2 litres of oil every few hundred miles.

Aug 20th, 2009, 20:16	#4
GTMaster Senior Member Last Online: Nov 7th, 2016 22:32 Join Date: Sep 2008 Location: Melbourne	Hi jlgrosvenor, is your Volvo back to normal?

Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)