Oil

Hello again everyone,

I know Oil (and tyres as in my previous thread) has been discussed several times before but I'm after opinions and info of oil grade NOT brand.

What grade of oil is best for a T5? Mineral, Semi or Fully Synth?

I currently use a 15/40 as I can buy it in 5 gallon drums for the same price of a gallon of the same grade from a motor factors. However, I doubt I'll be using 15/40 in the T5 because I don't think it's the right grade for a turbocharged car. I'd therefoore like to start shopping around to see what I can get in what quantities for how much.

Many thanks

Andy

a 15/40 grade is quite suitable for turbo charged engines(ambient temp range -15-+50 c)why should it not be ? and is actually recomended for hard driving conditions by volvo, as for oil types synthetics are without doubt superior in most aspects especially at very high temps where stability is far superior to minerals, however dont think you cannot run these engines on mineral you can just change it every 4k and use a decent brand i recently inspected a turbocharger from a 850 which had covered 180k miles, running on a good mineral oil and it showed very little wear, as a matter of interest volvo recomend any oil which meets acea a3 and i quote synthetic oil MAY be used if they meet these quality specs" so yer pays yer money etc

[doorman]

Everybody has there preference for oil, I have used Amsoil for quite a few years, and consider it the best in the world. 1040 is the recomended lubricant for my V70 'R' AWD, and the following link is for the main UK distributor debben1@aol.com
Hope that will be of help.
Dave

Thanks guys,

I didn't realise 15/40 was a suitable grade. Like I say, I've been using it in my 2 litre 850 for a while now and usually change it every two or three thousand (although the last change was after about five). However, I have noticed that with this oil I get some tappet noise for a second or two on start up whereas with a 5/40 of the same brand I used to get no noise at all. That was however a semi synth.

I'd rather not cut back on cost for oil for the T5 seeing as it's done over 150k. I'd rather use a better or more suitable grade for the sake of a few pounds.

I think I may stick to semi synth in the T5. From what I've read, fully synth has a habit of seeking out leaks. I know that if there's the potential for a leak there then the inevitable will happen one day but I'd rather not find any leaks for a few months if possible - especially the rear main seal. I just don't have the time for a job that big just yet.

Regards

Andy

[ivor940]

I thought 15/40 was not suitable for modern design multi-valve engines. Ford Mondeo 16V were recommended to use 10/30 or 5/30. Thicker oil gave valve problems. There is 0/30 oil on sale for the latest engine designs as far as I know. The handbook for my 940 has recommended grades depending on ambient temperature. I use GTX Magnetex 10/40 in my 940 2.0 Turbo, though the valves are not hydraulic.

ivor940

[upv5]

There seems to be a lot of confusion over something so simple.
Point 1)
If a multigrade oil meets ACEA, API & SAE standards it means that at a given temperature it's viscosity (thickness) must be to a set level.
In other words at room temperature or at 80 degrees C the Viscosity of a 10/30 or 20/50 or even a 0/40 is within a small tolerance exactly the same.
If you read the Volvo handbook there is a chart for you to choose the normal ambient temperature range for the region you normally live and drive in. In the UK a 10/30 covers easily covers the range of our climate. If you live in a costantly cold climate you may choose to drop to a 5/** to give easier starting or conversly in the tropics a **/40 would be a better choice.
There are situations such as constant driving in mountains or frequent track days where the engine runs hotter an oil with a greater range is good sense.
Point 2)
Sythetic oils give the manufacturer better control of whats in the oil so they can give it a wider range i.e 0/40 or 5/50. They also have a better resistance to burning which makes them better suited to turbo engines. When you turn off a turbo engine the oil and water stop flowing and the turbo gets very hot, the oil inside can burn and eventually clog the oil ways.
Point 3)
Modern oils have detergents etc to help keep sludging and deteriation by combustion products at bay. If you use Halfords own brand and you see no sludge then stay with it. If on the other hand you like peace of mind knowing your oil is at the leading edge ot technology then use GTX. Lubrication wise there is no diference.

For those who have'nt nodded off by now, the best treatment you can give your engine is change the oil & filter at 6000 miles or more often if you only do short journeys.

John

[morsing]

Does the Magnatec stuff work?

[upv5]

I don't know if works but Castrol were forced to change their advertising because they could no more prove it worked than Slick 50 could prove their stuff worked. Apparently there have been lawsuits in the US over false claims in oil and oil additive advertising. I think you can be sure that GTX Magnatec won't do any harm but is it worth paying more for?

John

[4 forty]

if you want to know the inside out of oils and additives visit this very informative site.

www.bobistheoilguy.com

paul