Help working out my problems. T5

S40Renegade · Nov 29th, 2016, 02:05

Hello, and thanks for taking a look.
Car info.
MY2002 c70 T5 GT Convertible
B5234t3

The car has never felt right and unfortunately been plagued with problems since owning it. And now it has finally given up on me.
I am wondering if anyone has any input on where to start with my diagnosis.

Shortly after buying the car EML come on and fault read

"P0014 Camshaft position sensor, timing over advanced"
And "P1332"
After some research I learnt it is most likely a cvvt issue and not the actual cam sensor.
I decided to dive In and replace the cvvt solenoid,
This sorted the EML and codes but car still felt severely under power.
After a few days of trying to work out the issue, on a hunch I decided to scan for faults again.
"P1332" had returned and also "P1238" also had a misfire fault.
I replaced plugs and coils and cleared faults.
Car felt and went like I imagined for the first time. And was this way for a few months with the odd overboost fault code most likely due to the high flow intake and filter.

Didn't last long tho as the car started to feel sluggish again and started to hunt quite aggressively on idle and occasionally cut out when dropping the clutch for a round about ect.
Scanned for faults and nothing. I have had the ETM off and cleaned made no difference,
Then one afternoon before work I turn the key. It fires up and cuts out almost immediately then will not start for at least 5-10 mins only for it to immediately cut out again.
Fuel pump primes the first time when the car starts but does not on further attempts.
As this was my only car I had to replace it. So it's currently been sat there for a few months now in that condition.
I like the car to much to send it to the scrap but I honestly have no idea where to start and don't have a huge amount of time that I can spend diagnosing the problem.

Any helpful advice is much appreciated
And thanks you in advanced.

doingitsideways · Nov 29th, 2016, 10:19

What codes show now it won't start/run?

Luxobarge · Nov 29th, 2016, 12:23

Those last symptoms sounds like the immobiliser antenna ring - it's a ring that goes round the ignition barrel and picks up the signal from the chip in the key, and these are the symptoms you get when it's not working. The fault is often simply the contacts, so take it apart and clean the contacts thoroughly (ideally with some electrical contact cleaning fluid) and try again - it's quite a common fault on these and an easy fix. It's possible that you may need a new antenna ring, but most usually it's just the contacts.

Another thing you can try is using the spare key, just in case it's something to do with the chip in the key.

HTH

S40Renegade · Nov 29th, 2016, 12:42

No faults at all at the moment.
I will look into the imob ring.
I have a spair key but unfortunately not programmed to the car.
Im sure that the above would not cause hunting and decelaration stalls.
Could if be that I'm unlucky enough to have 2 or 3 individual problems at once.

acshortt5 · Nov 29th, 2016, 13:58

My Dads C70 did similar antics and I did think it was the ETM but turned out to be the jubilee clip on the lower intercooler hose had rusted through and snapped so the hose was working loose every time it had boost pressure until it popped off enough to make it cut out. No fault codes were stored. Worth a look as it's a cheap fix.

Could also be the fuel pump relay on its way out which again wouldn't show a fault code.

The antenna ring is a good shout as well. I think the fault codes for that come under the alarm/immobiliser section so a generic code reader might not pick the codes up for that.

S40Renegade · Nov 30th, 2016, 00:51

Thanks for the advice, i am going to look into the imob ring i have access to a c70 t5 that is been broken so i can and have taken parts.
so far i have taken and changed, Cam sensor, Turbo Control Valve, MAF sensor and o2 sensors.

i have a new RIP kit installed on the car along with high flow inlet and filter.
all pipework is tight and secure.

I have a spare ETM available but i am under the impression that its a volvo only job due to ecu programming, can anyone confirm or deny this?

960kg · Nov 30th, 2016, 09:40

Also check the 12v smaller wire going to the starter motor as it can rust and possibly fray with engine movement and does cause the same symptoms as the immobiliser ring!!

SteveSarre · Nov 30th, 2016, 09:43

Hi S40Renegade

About the ETM.
If your car is a turbo, and the donor car is a turbo, you should be OK without further programming of the ETM

Steve

S40Renegade · Nov 30th, 2016, 10:16

Ok so over next few days I will pull the imob ring and ETM of my parts car and fit them one at a time to see what happens.
I will check all main wires and vac lines to, just to know for sure.
I shall report back soon.
Thank you.

Nov 29th, 2016, 02:05	#1
S40Renegade Junior Member Last Online: Jun 19th, 2019 21:36 Join Date: Mar 2014 Location: Bath/Swindon	Help working out my problems. T5 Hello, and thanks for taking a look. Car info. MY2002 c70 T5 GT Convertible B5234t3 The car has never felt right and unfortunately been plagued with problems since owning it. And now it has finally given up on me. I am wondering if anyone has any input on where to start with my diagnosis. Shortly after buying the car EML come on and fault read "P0014 Camshaft position sensor, timing over advanced" And "P1332" After some research I learnt it is most likely a cvvt issue and not the actual cam sensor. I decided to dive In and replace the cvvt solenoid, This sorted the EML and codes but car still felt severely under power. After a few days of trying to work out the issue, on a hunch I decided to scan for faults again. "P1332" had returned and also "P1238" also had a misfire fault. I replaced plugs and coils and cleared faults. Car felt and went like I imagined for the first time. And was this way for a few months with the odd overboost fault code most likely due to the high flow intake and filter. Didn't last long tho as the car started to feel sluggish again and started to hunt quite aggressively on idle and occasionally cut out when dropping the clutch for a round about ect. Scanned for faults and nothing. I have had the ETM off and cleaned made no difference, Then one afternoon before work I turn the key. It fires up and cuts out almost immediately then will not start for at least 5-10 mins only for it to immediately cut out again. Fuel pump primes the first time when the car starts but does not on further attempts. As this was my only car I had to replace it. So it's currently been sat there for a few months now in that condition. I like the car to much to send it to the scrap but I honestly have no idea where to start and don't have a huge amount of time that I can spend diagnosing the problem. Any helpful advice is much appreciated And thanks you in advanced.

Nov 29th, 2016, 10:19	#2
doingitsideways The Daddy Last Online: Feb 29th, 2024 15:07 Join Date: May 2010 Location: Manchester	What codes show now it won't start/run? __________________ XC90 V8 Exec, C70 2.4T Convertible, S70 T5 CD, 850 TDI, 2 x Escort vans and a 2.8i Capri. Clearout has begun, but must continue!

Nov 29th, 2016, 12:23	#3
Luxobarge Premier Member Last Online: Yesterday 09:37 Join Date: Jan 2011 Location: Horne (Nr. Horley)	Those last symptoms sounds like the immobiliser antenna ring - it's a ring that goes round the ignition barrel and picks up the signal from the chip in the key, and these are the symptoms you get when it's not working. The fault is often simply the contacts, so take it apart and clean the contacts thoroughly (ideally with some electrical contact cleaning fluid) and try again - it's quite a common fault on these and an easy fix. It's possible that you may need a new antenna ring, but most usually it's just the contacts. Another thing you can try is using the spare key, just in case it's something to do with the chip in the key. HTH __________________ Some people are like Slinkies, they serve no useful purpose but they still bring a smile to your face when you push them downstairs.

Nov 29th, 2016, 13:58	#5
acshortt5 Volvo Nutcase Last Online: Jul 14th, 2023 12:57 Join Date: May 2007 Location: N/A View Photos By: acshortt5	My Dads C70 did similar antics and I did think it was the ETM but turned out to be the jubilee clip on the lower intercooler hose had rusted through and snapped so the hose was working loose every time it had boost pressure until it popped off enough to make it cut out. No fault codes were stored. Worth a look as it's a cheap fix. Could also be the fuel pump relay on its way out which again wouldn't show a fault code. The antenna ring is a good shout as well. I think the fault codes for that come under the alarm/immobiliser section so a generic code reader might not pick the codes up for that. __________________ Andrew 1998 S70 T5 CD AUTO Previously a 1990 240 GLT-R Last edited by acshortt5; Nov 29th, 2016 at 14:07.

Nov 30th, 2016, 09:40	#7
960kg Premier Member Last Online: Dec 28th, 2022 12:25 Join Date: Jun 2009 Location: Mercville	Also check the 12v smaller wire going to the starter motor as it can rust and possibly fray with engine movement and does cause the same symptoms as the immobiliser ring!! __________________ Mercedes C320CDI Sport Estate 3 litre V6 7 Gear Auto Remap 290bhp 628Nm torque @ 1600revs 45.1mpg

Nov 29th, 2016, 12:42	#4
S40Renegade Junior Member Last Online: Jun 19th, 2019 21:36 Join Date: Mar 2014 Location: Bath/Swindon	No faults at all at the moment. I will look into the imob ring. I have a spair key but unfortunately not programmed to the car. Im sure that the above would not cause hunting and decelaration stalls. Could if be that I'm unlucky enough to have 2 or 3 individual problems at once.

Nov 30th, 2016, 00:51	#6
S40Renegade Junior Member Last Online: Jun 19th, 2019 21:36 Join Date: Mar 2014 Location: Bath/Swindon	Thanks for the advice, i am going to look into the imob ring i have access to a c70 t5 that is been broken so i can and have taken parts. so far i have taken and changed, Cam sensor, Turbo Control Valve, MAF sensor and o2 sensors. i have a new RIP kit installed on the car along with high flow inlet and filter. all pipework is tight and secure. I have a spare ETM available but i am under the impression that its a volvo only job due to ecu programming, can anyone confirm or deny this?

Nov 30th, 2016, 09:43	#8
SteveSarre Premier Member Last Online: Yesterday 22:08 Join Date: Oct 2004 Location: London/West Country	Hi S40Renegade About the ETM. If your car is a turbo, and the donor car is a turbo, you should be OK without further programming of the ETM Steve __________________ V70 2.5 Turbo AWD Man. 1999 Red V70 2.5 10V Auto 1998 Green C70 T 20V Auto Conv. 2001 Blue, C70 T5 Auto Conv. 2000 Blue V70 2.5 Turbo AWD Auto 1998 Green, V70 2.5 10V Auto BiFuel 1999 Red (scrapped) V70 20v Auto 1999 Green (scrapped)

Nov 30th, 2016, 10:16	#9
S40Renegade Junior Member Last Online: Jun 19th, 2019 21:36 Join Date: Mar 2014 Location: Bath/Swindon	Ok so over next few days I will pull the imob ring and ETM of my parts car and fit them one at a time to see what happens. I will check all main wires and vac lines to, just to know for sure. I shall report back soon. Thank you. __________________ Jerry C70 2.3 T5 Convertible S40 2.0T lpt Sadly Scrapped Toyota Mr2 GT Coupe, Audi A3 1.8 20VT, Mitsubishi Colt

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