xc90 auto will not engage into gear

[danscotland]

Hi mate Sorry late reply!! I can't message you can u msg your number I'll talk you what I've done so far.

[danscotland]

Not been at car for ages, wife been ill so not much time!! On sat I took engine out again and split transmission off again!! Hopefully someone who has done this correctly might be able to say what I've done this time is right!!! I've not put engine back in yet due to turbo pipe seal bust, so will get a new one on Monday then put back in and try.
Reading over Haynes and vida it says not to let torque converter move when splitting and to somehow clamp it so it does not move. I never did this!! On splitting the second time I noticed a notch in the flexiplate and on spinning the torque converter I noticed 3 marks (spots) I also noticed that the torque converter is easy to pull out a bit so whether or not this had moved with all the efforts to split I don't know! This time round I made sure the converter was back as far as it would go and I lined up the 3 marks with the notch in the flexiplate. I took a photo to show what I mean. I really wanted to put it all back and try on sat but I think it easier to renew seal with engine out so will get it back in on Tuesday.

[danscotland]

Hopefully a photo!! This is what I've now lined up, does this look familiar to anyone who's split engine and transmission?

[Tannaton]

As it had been disturbed suggest you remove the torque converter and then reload it correctly - you push the torque converter into the gearbox and spin it clockwise - you should hear and feel it drop into the gearbox TWICE. Once this has been done the gap between the gearbox flange face and the top of the torque converter flywheel mounting lugs should be half an inch (13mm).

I think there is a pic of this in the Haynes manual. The last "clunk" is the splines engaging for the gearbox internal oil pump.

You should probably try and check for any damage.

[Clan]

Originally Posted by Tannaton

As it had been disturbed suggest you remove the torque converter and then roload it correctly - you push the torque converter into the gearbox and spin it clockwise - you should hear and feel it drop into the gearbox TWICE. Once this has been done the gap between the gearbox flange face and the top of the torque converter flywheel mounting lugs should be half an inch (13mm).

I think there is a pic of this in the Haynes manual. The last "clunk" is the splines engaging for the gearbox internal oil pump.

You should probably try and check for any damage.

when fitting the box to the engine it should easily slip onto the dowels and slide right up to the engine . put the bolts through the doweled holes first and gently tighten them up whilst turning the torque converter with a finger , if the torque converter gets stiff to turn before teh bolts are tight you have a problem .. With those two bolts fairly tight the torque converter should still spin freely , if so you are on the right track .

[danscotland]

Disappointing update!! Got enough of car rebuilt to start and still no gears!!! No pressure in oil cooler pipes. Is it easy for the torque converter to slip out as we load it back onto engine?
I did exactly as the posts said the torque converter slipped in twice as I turned it it was the correct distance from the flange and when we loaded it onto engine with 2 bolts in it spun easy with my finger

Do the 3 spots on the torque converter mean anything?
As the Haynes says you need to lock it in place to stop it moving how is this possible ??
Thanks for still reading lol I'm really handy with the old spanners but this auto box has me stumped!!!

The other thing that bugs me is the engine is not revving above 2500rpm is this because of the gear problem do you think? Or the fact that the turbo and exhaust are not hooked up?(turbo is on just not connected to inter cooler and air box!)

[Tannaton]

Oh dear not good... Have you checked the gearbox oil level? It needs about 7 litres for a dry fill.

If you loaded the TC correctly (and it sounds like you have) then it shouldn't slip unless the gearbox was tilted significantly during re-assembly.

It is possible that you might have damaged the oil pump/splines if the TC wasn't mated correctly the first time. If you search carefully on here - someone has done just that and recovered from it somehow.

Not sure about the D5 as I've not tried it but the petrol engined vehicles will not rev past about 2,500 rpm when the car is stationary.

You do have my sympathy - I am very much aware of just how many hours of work it is to remove/refit the boxes on these, especially working at home with no ramp...

I would also search the other forums, there are a few AW gearbox experts whose natural habitat is the P2 V70/S60 forum.

[danscotland]

Thanks for help again! Yes def fluid in, brand new stuff lol.
Does the torque converter simply pull out? I'm going to have to take it out again by the sounds of it!! To check for damage. If damage will it be pump side or torque side? Think that's my Saturday arranged!

Engine revs makes sense now you've said that!!!
Will continue searching the forum for that post too you mentioned cheers

[KBB]

The post made earlier about engaging the converter first onto the dog drive and then onto the splines is an accurate one. If it has not been engaged correctly during fitting the dog drive will likely be damaged on the pump central shaft which strip's the dog teeth off leaving no mechanical drive to the transmission pump shaft. This mean's the pump drive shaft will not be turning but static hence no hydraulic pressure being built up to operate the bands and clutches to create the drive ratios through out the epicyclet gear train.

[danscotland]

Thanks. Yes it's looking like I did it wrong the first time, and have messed up the teeth! Will know for sure when I strip it again!!
I'm still loading up my vida after hard drive failure!! Are the parts mentioned in the post above available individually or is it a recondition job at a company ? Thanks for all input