Volvo 940 radiator leaking - what are my options?

[Eyebrows123]

Always used glycol coolant, used to use genuine Volvo but recently changed to Triple QX for no other reason than it I have a lot of it lying around. The system has been flushed before and gets replaced every 2 years (sometimes less when I've ended up draining and losing the coolant!).

Sounds like I'll just go with a Nissens rad and be done with it, before I purchase, is this the correct one? Seems like it is but also seems worryingly cheap?

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/NISSENS-C...UAAOSw6TRatcW5

The hoses are still good for now but next time I put an order in from Volvo I may add them in.

[griston64]

Looks like the right one for a manual non A/C but as you say it does seem cheap. I'm always a bit wary on Ebay that it's genuine. It might be worth giving Simon at FRF a call to see what they can offer on a Volvo one

[Laird Scooby]

Originally Posted by Eyebrows123

Sounds like I'll just go with a Nissens rad and be done with it, before I purchase, is this the correct one? Seems like it is but also seems worryingly cheap?

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/NISSENS-C...UAAOSw6TRatcW5

The hoses are still good for now but next time I put an order in from Volvo I may add them in.

That looks like the right rad for yours but get your tape measure out and measure your old one and compare to the dimensions given on the drawing. There are a few different sizes so will pay to make sure. If it's a better price than you were expecting - don't complain!

[Rversteeg]

I just fitted a new Nissens radiator in my LPT with AC. Relatively cheap and replacing is very easy. I would not mind doing it again if it would fail a little bit earlier than an OEM one. It could even be that Nissens is the OEM manufacturer as well. The fully aluminium ones from do88 are really beautiful, but a bit overdone for my 22 year old runner.
Regarding the capacity, I think the radiators for AC/turbo cars have the largest cooling capacity. They seem to have the biggest core surface as well (590x500 vs 450x418 mm), which makes sense as the condensor and the aftercooler are in front of the radiator warming up the cooling air before it passes through the radiator. The air passing through a non-turbo/non-AC radiator is relatively colder and the core area can therefore be smaller.
If you are looking to increase your cooling capacity, I would try to find out if you can make an AC/turbo radiator fit. The fan shroud is probably different for a start. But why should you want to increase the capacity? It has been sufficient for the last 25 years or are you preparing for global warming?
Rob

[Eyebrows123]

Went and measured it, seemed about right so went ahead and got it. At that price, there's no point upgrading it to future proof it, I'll cross that hurdle if I ever meet it.

Let's just hope the quality is good enough to last another 20 years!

[Laird Scooby]

Originally Posted by Eyebrows123

Went and measured it, seemed about right so went ahead and got it. At that price, there's no point upgrading it to future proof it, I'll cross that hurdle if I ever meet it.

Let's just hope the quality is good enough to last another 20 years!

Glad to hear it! Also glad you didn't "upgrade" it to a larger unit. Having too large a radiator can cause problems in itself as it lets too much cold coolant through too quickly which can cause cracked blocks and warped heads/HGF as many owners of various vehicles have found out!

[Eyebrows123]

Also worth noting, I've just been told by that supplier that the radiator has a 2 year warranty.

With regards to having too large a radiator, shouldn't be a problem if you have a working thermostat

[griston64]

One problem is the top brackets for an A/C rad are different. So you might have to faff around trying to source new brackets. I would fit a new stat though as you are draining

[Laird Scooby]

Originally Posted by Eyebrows123

Also worth noting, I've just been told by that supplier that the radiator has a 2 year warranty.

With regards to having too large a radiator, shouldn't be a problem if you have a working thermostat

A working 'stat is usually the main cause of the problem if the rad is too large - opens suddenly letting a lot of hot coolant into the rad to be cooled and the cold coolant at the bottom isn't warmed enough by the incoming hot at the top so causes thermal shock.

A popular mod on Jeep Cherokees (later models) was to fit a restrictor in the top hose to reduce coolant flow because of this phenomenon. Other models similarly effected are Rover K-series powered cars (and we all know how often they blow head gaskets!) and there are more - an extra large radiator isn't always a good thing!

[TonyS9]

Originally Posted by Laird Scooby

What Mark said ^^^^^

DON'T use Waterless coolant in a red block either, it's been shown in the past to cause leaks and overheating. Also don't use OAT coolant, it's not suitable for cast iron engines and not suitable for anything made before 2000 anyway.

I don't see how waterless coolant could "cause" a leak its oily and thicker than waterbased. I do understand how it could cause overheating as it has a lower thermal conductivity than water. I have been there and bought the T-shirt with the 360 B230FT, using the 360 rad.
Initially with waterless coolant, 12psi boost, hot days on the track temperature would rise up to about 3/4 gauge, but not into the red. I plouged on and didn't back off, brakes were a bigger problem lol.
Changed back to water based, temperature in better control but the cap (360 spec lower release than 940) was leaking pressure and there was bubbling in the expansion tank after a session. The 32yo plastic tank was also very pressurised. Decide the 360 parts weren't rated for turbo heat waste.
Changed back to waterless,
After a few mods, removed the cowling, blocking bits on the rad and air directors at the side, track day drilled bumper. The temperature is now normal at full power/topspeed. Can rise up a little in traffic without the cowling though.

So it entirely depends on the cooling, and the 940 has good cooling even with the manual non-AC rad. Even if you run out of capacity an auto/air con rad is huge and an OE fit.

With waterless the lack of pressure is a big benefit and it can goto 180C before boiling. It never needs changed and doesn't corrode the block.

Additionally I use OATs in the 940 for 10yrs or more, without any issues so far, what should I expect and when?