Engine: D52447: Running In

[kentishdriver]

Have new XC90, and now up to 320 miles. Long run coming up this w/e which should take me over the 1000, and which will give me the opportunity to properly run in the car. Obviously I am familiar with the general running in advice, but I am aware that big Diesels in particular can be quite sensitive to how they are run in, and that this can affect the fuel consumption for life. Any tips on how best to run in the D5 engine. Thanks.

[NewVolvo]

This have been discussed extensively in another thread and as many believe, you really have two options.

1. Pedal to the metal from day 1, anything brakes, you are covered under warranty.

2. Drive it with an egg under your foot.

Personally I am samewhere in the middle of these two. Today's modern engines are already run-in from factory and can handle the stress of a heavy right foot. But, I am also a believer that you are putting together an engine and a gearbox that has never been living/working together before and want them to get along. By using force, they may not agree... abit like a marriage.

[gillberry]

I'm now up to 1500 miles on mine and have tried to keep the maximum revs to 3000rpm although now over 1000 miles I'm pushing the revs a bit more . As said by new volvo have tried to keep to the middle option .

[chrome]

Up to 1200miles on my XC90. Going to keep it below 3000rpm for as long as poss. I also have a 2.0 tdi EOS which is only really loosening up now after 50K !

[AyrshireXC90]

My XC90 has almost 5k on it's clock since mid-June. It has been driven very carefully for the first 1k miles, and "normally" since. The only major problem has been the unexpected damage from an artic lorry impacting in to its OSF wing at 20-30mph. Engine still fine, although crash repairs not up to scratch - went back to the bodyshop the day I got it home due to sub-standard work!
I think this car needs driven safely and responsibly, but it does respond well to the occasional blip on the throttle.

[kentishdriver]

Thanks for comments everyone. My intention was to keep it to about 2500/3000 rpm max, varying the revs/load as much as I could, but with the occasional foot to the floor burst to clear the crap out the system, and I think I will stick to that. A little bit disappointed with vibration at about the 2000rpm mark under load. Anyone else have similar problem. May settle down once loosened off.

[PlankWithANailIn]

As already stated all car makers now run new engines in at the factory, how you drive from new will not effect engine run in. Gear box does not matter as manufacturing tolerances have been very good for 15+ years, plus xc60/90's should have auto's so not really an issue anyway.

Just drive how you want from day 1.

[Unbeliever]

Came across the below article, the actual discussion it creates makes u think that little bit more.

Quote

"There is an increasing trend towards buying diesel cars however some of the advice that is around is dangerous to say the least. Diesel cars are new to many dealer sales staff and I've heard them giving running in advice to customers that will seriously shorten the life and adversely affect the performance of the diesel cars that they are selling. This is particularly true for the new generation of hi-tech engines with modern turbochargers. It's not the fault of the sales staff...they just don't know any better.

One of the reasons that diesel engines outlast petrol engines is that the diesel combustion process is kinder to cylinder walls that that of the petrol engine process. This means that in the early life of the engine when the rings are bedding in it's easy to glaze the cylinder walls. The worst treatment that you can give your new engine is to run it at constant high revs...for example on a freeway or on long, straight, flat country roads until the rings have had a chance to bed in. Ironically, city driving is excellent for running in an engine as it gives exactly the opposite conditions...as long as the engine and particularly the oil gets up to full working temperatures for a reasonably sustained period. Running to the shops or taking the kids to the local school and then shutting down is a killer. Diesels thrive on hard work and long periods of running.

Below is an excerpt from a post on a TDI forum overseas. I don't think I've infringed copyright here but I'm sure the author (who is a very knowledgeable poster and is an experienced trade guy) wouldn't mind. I agree with everything he says or I wouldn't quote him.

Rules that apply for the life of the car
-When the engine is cold rev the engine to at least 2,500 rpms.
-When the engine is warmed up rev the engine to no less than 3,000 rpms.
The reason for this is to keep the turbo on boost, clear the VNT guide vanes and apply firm pressure to the rings for optimal sealing against blow-by gasses. The rings need the boost to seal since it’s a turbo charged engine, babying the engine is detrimental and will lead to issues with compression if done so for very long.

First 1600km
Keep rpms below 3,800. Avoid steady rpms. Frequent firm application of power is strongly recommended up to 3,800 rpm. Avoid the use of cruise control so that you naturally fluctuate the power with your foot.

1,600-8,000 km
Use the full ~5,000 rpm power range. Avoid steady rpms. Avoid the use of cruise control. Frequent application of full throttle is recommended to help seat the rings. City driving is ideal for breaking in a TDI due to frequent stops and acceleration. Once you get to 8,000 km change the oil and perform your first service per the manual

8,000-16,000 km
Use of the cruise control is ok at this point since most of the initial break in has occurred. Continue to use occasional full throttle accelerations to continue to seat the rings. You will notice the engine become slightly louder during this phase due to less friction from the engine breaking in (normal for a diesel to become louder under lighter loads). If your going on a long drive and you are using the cruise, every so often step on the peddle to accelerate up about 30 kmph then coast back down to your preset speed.

16,000-100,000km
This is when the rest of the break in occurs. The engine from the factory will check out with about 475psi of compression pressure out of the crate. It will take at least 10,000 km to reach the peak pressure of 550psi. For the most part once you get to 16,000 km your compression will be around 510psi meaning that most of the break in has occurred.

100,000-the life of the motor
The engines I have seen so far using a 5w40 oil are maintaining 550 psi of compression pressure with over 300,000 km on the odometer. The owners have followed the advice above and do not have any oil consumption issues. This also means that with the higher pressure the engine is more efficient returning optimal fuel economy and reduced smoke output.

http://vwwatercooled.org.au/newforum...hlight=running

[Manic-me]

I have been trying to follow a run in period. Mx XC60 has now done just over 500 miles. I read several articles before taking delivery of my car. Similar themes to those posted here - keep under 3000 rpm for the first 1K miles, try to avoid constant revs - work up and down the gears.

I have been keeping under 3K rpm, sticking to A roads and going up and down the gears and rev range with a frequent acceleration "burst".

I do wonder what difference it will make, but the car is only new once and for my own peice of mind, at least, I wanted to follow some run in guidelines.

A couple of other relates links
http://www.civinfo.com/wiki/index.php?title=Running_in
http://www.theaa.com/motoring_advice...a-new-car.html
http://www.honestjohn.co.uk/faq/faq.htm?id=32

MM