AWD Transmission: Can't remove AWD fluid pump - Haldex 4

[drjarmin]

Thanks. This doesn't sound too challenging or is that false hope!

Can get to all 6 bolts if the shaft is rotated by putting the car in neutral I guess.

I have a decent torque air impact gun. Is the nut hard to get to?

I think I will replace the pump without the cover on. I don't think it matters as I have ordered a new one which should be here in a couple of weeks I hope.

[S60D5-185]

It's not a difficult job and the nut will be very evident as soon as the prop is out of the flange .

The old pump should keep the oil in until the new one arrives.

There's an oil seal that the flange runs in where it meets the haldex unit. Try not to disturb it.

Cheap and easy to replace though if you do.

[drjarmin]

Thanks, really appreciate your help. Been a grim evening. New pump and prop bolts on order - hope it arrives soon!

VIDA does show 2 different flanges for this car so I guess I have the bigger of the two.

At least the car will have a new pump, filter and AOC fluid so should be good for another 100k+ fingers crossed.

[drjarmin]

Filled up the AWD fluid until it overflowed and put back the plug. However the car rear end was on ramps. How far is it safe to drive until the fluid is topped up and 40ml removed? The power to the pump isn't connected so AWD not active.

Thanks!

[S60D5-185]

Originally Posted by drjarmin

Filled up the AWD fluid until it overflowed and put back the plug. However the car rear end was on ramps. How far is it safe to drive until the fluid is topped up and 40ml removed? The power to the pump isn't connected so AWD not active.

Thanks!

With the pump disconnected the Haldex won't be getting pressurised so the oil level may not be as crucial as when everything is working BUT if you get the car on the level and lie next to and just in front of the rear nearside wheel you can easily reach onto the haldex unit and the fill plug.

If you do this and remove the plug and allow any excess to drain, you know that you only have a max of 40 ml too much in a non operative system.

Try it, the access is better than you would think and the levels will be almost correct.👍

[drjarmin]

Yes you are right! Thanks, that motivated me to go find a flat and remove the drain plug. Was feeling somewhat demotivated after a long work day and it being dark.

Managed to drain the surplus and take another 30ml or so with a syringe so should be good enough until the new pump arrives. Ordered from Haldexparts.com and tracking shows its due to arrive tomorrow!!!

[S60D5-185]

Good man.

You will get there, just keep plugging away and if stuck always ask ( as you have done )

Nearly there, stick with it. 👍

Ps, I've never yet renewed the 6 CV prop bolts so don't worry if the pump turns up before new bolts and you are wanting to press on. 😁

[drjarmin]

Pump arrived today!! Amazing service from Haldexparts.com. 48 hours from Europe to HK to to my office.

Thanks for tip on bolts. Replacements still on their way. Would you advise any threadlocker (blue?) when putting them back in?

[S60D5-185]

Originally Posted by drjarmin

Pump arrived today!! Amazing service from Haldexparts.com. 48 hours from Europe to HK to to my office.

Thanks for tip on bolts. Replacements still on their way. Would you advise any threadlocker (blue?) when putting them back in?

Excellent!

Threadlock, yes use a bit if you want, it certainly wont hurt but be sparing.

In addition, even though my pump was new , I still bench tested it very briefly, by applying 12v to the pins to ensure that it works.
Not unheard of for a new part to be defective.
Don't run it for more than a few seconds as it is designed to operate in oil.

See flowchart for 12v bench connection of pump. BE CAREFUL
https://xemodex.com/us/knowledgebase...c90-2005-2010/

Make sure that you apply a bit of Haldex oil to the pump O rings prior to installing.

When removing CV joint from flange to install new pump, be gentle as you don't want the cv joint to pull apart. It can, and is a bit of a fiddle reassembling if you do. Remember two threaded holes on rear of flange to insert bolts and force CV joint from flange if it is rusted in.

Halfway down the floor pan you will see a metal bracket underneath the prop shaft , held in place by two bolts.
Loosen one bolt a fair bit and remove the other. Swivel the bracket out of the way. This will allow the prop to move downwards away from the flange when you get it free.👍

[drjarmin]

Thank you, really appreciate all the extra advice. First time doing a job like this and this makes such a difference to confidence level!

Originally Posted by S60D5-185

Excellent!

Threadlock, yes use a bit if you want, it certainly wont hurt but be sparing.

In addition, even though my pump was new , I still bench tested it very briefly, by applying 12v to the pins to ensure that it works.
Not unheard of for a new part to be defective.
Don't run it for more than a few seconds as it is designed to operate in oil.

See flowchart for 12v bench connection of pump. BE CAREFUL
https://xemodex.com/us/knowledgebase...c90-2005-2010/

Make sure that you apply a bit of Haldex oil to the pump O rings prior to installing.

When removing CV joint from flange to install new pump, be gentle as you don't want the cv joint to pull apart. It can, and is a bit of a fiddle reassembling if you do. Remember two threaded holes on rear of flange to insert bolts and force CV joint from flange if it is rusted in.

Halfway down the floor pan you will see a metal bracket underneath the prop shaft , held in place by two bolts.
Loosen one bolt a fair bit and remove the other. Swivel the bracket out of the way. This will allow the prop to move downwards away from the flange when you get it free.👍