Break pads and disc replacement

[wynnj]

Originally Posted by Chudy85

Will LIQUI MOLY Brake Anti-Squeal | 100 g | Paste | do the job too?
I have ceramic grease no idea if i got copper one

Can't answer I'm afraid. The problem is caused by dissimilar metals (aluminium alloy and steel) in the presence of water, especially salty water. The copper grease helps aleviate the corrosion. I've used it for years and always been able to remove the wheels when needed. Without it on e.g. a new 2nd hand car I've had to resort to loosening the wheel bolts a little and driving slowly round the block so that the lateral forces when turning breaks the wheels loose.
Google what you've got and see if it's suitable.

[rhd443]

Originally Posted by Chudy85

Will LIQUI MOLY Brake Anti-Squeal | 100 g | Paste | do the job too?
I have ceramic grease no idea if i got copper one

Ceramic grease is preferable and modern, copper grease is conductive and can cause abs sensor faults.

I never smear on the rear of the pads, only on friction / movement joints against the carrier, as the OEM pads have a double sided sticky pad that sticks the pad to the caliper already (or a non sticky pad on other brands)and the metal clip does the same for the one that faces against the piston.

I am under the impression that it's also bad practice to use any copper slip on the face of the wheel hub/disc where the wheel mounts against because it can compact and cause wheel imbalances. Best just brush any muck away and leave it all rusty coloured against the wheel

[Chudy85]

Originally Posted by rhd443

Ceramic grease is preferable and modern, copper grease is conductive and can cause abs sensor faults.

I never smear on the rear of the pads, only on friction / movement joints against the carrier, as the OEM pads have a double sided sticky pad that sticks the pad to the caliper already (or a non sticky pad on other brands)and the metal clip does the same for the one that faces against the piston.

I am under the impression that it's also bad practice to use any copper slip on the face of the wheel hub/disc where the wheel mounts against because it can compact and cause wheel imbalances. Best just brush any muck away and leave it all rusty coloured against the wheel

Thank you.

First time I have heard about putting grease between the wheel and hub. I could see that Volvo garage didn't do this when new tyres were installed.

Also, I never saw before to put any Brake Anti-Squeal paste but I have watched plenty of videos and this paste is used.

[wynnj]

Originally Posted by rhd443

I am under the impression that it's also bad practice to use any copper slip on the face of the wheel hub/disc where the wheel mounts against because it can compact and cause wheel imbalances. Best just brush any muck away and leave it all rusty coloured against the wheel

I'm only talking about a smear, not a tin full! You're far more likely to get wheel imbalances after you or someone else who can't get the wheel off a year down the road, because it's corroded around the hub flange in particular, takes his 2kg club hammer out and tries to knock it off.

Been maintaining my own cars now for well over 50yrs and using copper grease ever since I've had cars with alloy wheels and it's served me well. Others can do what they choose.

[neilgorin]

I always put a little copper grease on the back of the wheel, had too many wheels bond themselves to the disk.

What you must never do is put a layer of the stuff on the hub before fitting a new disk, it used to be "the norm" but modern braking systems have so little lateral movement in them that the slightest bit there tends to cause disk runout, which turns into uneven wear - causing a pulsing at the pedal.

[Chudy85]

Originally Posted by neilgorin

What you must never do is put a layer of the stuff on the hub before fitting a new disk, it used to be "the norm" but modern braking systems have so little lateral movement in them that the slightest bit there tends to cause disk runout, which turns into uneven wear - causing a pulsing at the pedal.

Please find this video
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jFsx5DuWARI jump to 6min 46sec.
He is putting the paste exactly where you say no.
I am confused

[Kev0607]

He put a small brush full on the hub... he didn't put the tub on.

All you need is a small smear of it.

I've always used copper grease on the hub, just a small amount. Never had an issue getting the wheel off or brake disc runout.

[neilgorin]

Originally Posted by Chudy85

Please find this video
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jFsx5DuWARI jump to 6min 46sec.
He is putting the paste exactly where you say no.
I am confused

Had a garage do that on my last v60, caused no end of run out issues, which went when I fitted the disks myself with the hub clean after getting advice from the brake disk manufacturer who stated that it must never be done as even the smallest amount can cause issues. Then had a seized calliper which caused warping but that's a different story.

It apparently wasn't an issue with the older calliper design where the whole calliper moves back and forth on sliders, but the issue occurs with the newer fixed type where only the pads and piston move as there's less movement possible before the run out is felt at the pedal / wheel.

[Chudy85]

Originally Posted by neilgorin

Had a garage do that on my last v60, caused no end of run out issues, which went when I fitted the disks myself with the hub clean after getting advice from the brake disk manufacturer who stated that it must never be done as even the smallest amount can cause issues. Then had a seized calliper which caused warping but that's a different story.

It apparently wasn't an issue with the older calliper design where the whole calliper moves back and forth on sliders, but the issue occurs with the newer fixed type where only the pads and piston move as there's less movement possible before the run out is felt at the pedal / wheel.

Thanks for the information. Also, I have read/watched about this and they told me I should not put anything between the disc and the hub.

I will still use for brake pads Anti-Squeal paste and ceramic grease for caliper pins.

I hope the change will go smoothly tomorrow. weather dependant

[noodle1066]

Due to the thread lock, I needed to buy a blow torch this year (Screwfix) to remove the caliper carriers.
I would suggest buying one before you start (you can always return it), unless you have access to another vehicle should you need to buy one.