P1800e: Source for replacement coolant temp sender 028013001

[ChasesDragons]

Hi all,
Continuing saga of my P1800e; the coolant sensor is not giving correct resistance values. I would like to replace this.

Any ideas on cheap replacements, anyone?

The Bosch number on mine is 0280130014 Although they cross reference with lots none that I saw have the same connectors.....

[sleek lemur]

https://www.classicvolvoparts.co.uk/...LINDER+HEAD%2E

[ChasesDragons]

Thank You, ]That doesn't look like mine - mine is a two-connector version. Pic enclosed.

I have seen cross references to much larger sensors, single connector ones, round connector housings etc

Anyone replaced theirs lately? Any references?

Many Thanks.

[c1800]

Try this one. For FI.

https://www.classicvolvoparts.co.uk/...AND+P1800ES%2E

The other one posted is for the temp gauge.

[142 Guy]

Have a close look at the sensor body. I think you will find that the Bosch part number is bosch 025422117. Do a Google search using the Bosch part number and you may be able to find a good price because that sensor was used on a wide range of cars equipped with D jet right up to around 1976. I got a replacement from Rock Auto for about $35 Cdn a couple of years ago. Unfortunately, Rock Auto no longer stocks it.

[ChasesDragons]

Thanks again 142,
I got the number off the sensor that I took out. It has a different stamping to what you expected. In addition to 0280130014 printed on the body, it also ha 124 printed on the side.

Do you suspect that this sensor is an aftermarket addition?

Pics to confuse and tittilate:

U

[c1800]

280 130 014 is the correct part number. I don’t think the HA 124 means anything, possibly a production code, date, etc.

I too got a genuine Bosch in the USA about 5 years ago for about $20, but as 142G points mostly out of stock, NLA on many websites.

Surprisingly long list of other vehicles using the same (if you can trust the source!) although many might have a different connector as you’ve discovered. Often you’ll find some of these are not genuine Bosch. Non Bosch sensors in other applications have been known to have quality issues.

https://partinfo.org/bosch-0280130014/

Probably the simplest and most expedient to bite the bullet and get the proper one from Brookhouse.

[142 Guy]

Because I tend to hang on to junk long after it is due, I went out to the garage to see if I still had the original sensor in my Volvo junk box. Sure enough it was there and it is the 014 part so that would be the one to order. I picked up the 117 part from a product reference chart and I clearly did a flying fingers when typing the part number because that 117 part number brings up zero hits. Mia culpa!

A little Google search suggests that the 014 sensor is available from on-line vendors for a reasonable price.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/p/249150635

[ChasesDragons]

Oh it gets better, I realised that I have a complete Mercedes W114 engine sat in the corner, little check revealed the identical coolant sensor installed on it.
Checked resistances and it was a pass!

It is now installed on the B20E, but, the car is still demonstrating the same issues.

Also saw this trick online to install a pin across the Coolant Sensor Valve connector, short circuiting it, to give alow voltage reading and stop excess fuel delivery - No luck!

[142 Guy]

Originally Posted by ChasesDragons

It is now installed on the B20E, but, the car is still demonstrating the same issues.

Also saw this trick online to install a pin across the Coolant Sensor Valve connector, short circuiting it, to give alow voltage reading and stop excess fuel delivery - No luck!

Coolant Sensor Valve connector - are you talking about the thermal timer that controls the cold start injector on the later D jet systems? If so, I am guessing from your over fueling comment that the car is running rich (dark brown or sooty black spark plugs)? If you think that something is amiss with the timer, simply unplugging the electrical connection to the cold start valve should eliminate a failed timer problem; but, the car will be hard to start when cold. Note that the thermal timer is only energized when you engage the starter motor so even if the timer is wonky it will not affect engine operation once it is started.

If the cold start injector is leaky disconnecting the electrical connections will not solve that problem. To check for a leaky cold start injector, disconnect the electrical plug; but, leave the fuel hose connected. Remove the injector from the intake manifold and place it in a cup to catch any fuel. Pressurize the fuel system by turning the ignition key to run; but, do not start the motor. This should cause the pump to run for a couple of seconds. Check the injector to see if fuel is drooling out of the injector. No drool means that your over fuel problem is not due to a leaky injector.

Another likely cause for over fueling on a B20E/F with original injectors is drooling fuel injectors. The D jet being a batch fire system means that if you have one super leaky injector it can potentially affect more than just the cylinder it is installed on. To check for leaky injectors you need to remove all the injectors from their holders on the head while they are still connected to the fuel rail and the electrical connections. You have to be careful doing this because the injectors tend to stick in their seals and if you yank too hard on just one end of the fuel rail you can end up bending the rail if just one injector suddenly pops loose. Place cups under the tips of the injectors to catch gas and then pressurize the fuel system like you did for the cold start test. There should be no drool from the injector tips. If there is, you may be able to fix the problem by sending the injector to a cleaning service (I would do all four if they are original). If you do check the injectors for leakage, make sure to have new sealing rings for the injector tips on hand. If the sealing rings are original I can guarantee that they will not re seal when you reinstall the injectors. A liberal application of silicone grease (dielectric tune up grease works just fine) on the rings will make things go easier on reassembly.

Have you ruled out a dirty air filter as a potential cause of over fueling?

If the injectors don't leak and the air filter is clean then things get more complicated. There is a CO adjustment screw / knob on the D jet controller that alters fuel mix; but, if nobody has messed with that it should not be the source of your problem and you need a CO 'sniffer' to set it correctly (as per the service manual).

For vintage D jet owners, I recommend that you download and review this manual if you don't already have it.

http://volvo1800pictures.com/documen...lt_tracing.pdf