rear brake pad replacement

[MacV50]

Did mine this weekend and removed the motors instead of doing the 12V rewind method as I couldn't get the first connector to come off and didn't want to break it.

Getting the motors off and on was no issue. T30 bit for the motor bolts but make sure you clean out the bolt head first. T40 bit to wind back the caliper.

The rest of the job was no harder than any other brakes I've done.

One thing that caught me out though was that my trolley jack couldn't lift the car high enough! It's a 2 tonne Halfords job with a 38cm lift. I managed to borrow a mates 2.5 tonne JCB jack with a 41cm lift which did the job.

[bomberfr0g]

Hi, Can you remember how long it took to wind them back and did the piston spin?
Did u use a tool to get the piston back in?
Haven't got back out to mine yet as too frozen
Thanks

[jasmith44]

One thing that caught me out though was that my trolley jack couldn't lift the car high enough! It's a 2 tonne Halfords job with a 38cm lift. I managed to borrow a mates 2.5 tonne JCB jack with a 41cm lift which did the job.

Try putting a 4" X 2" thick piece of wood on the top of the jack head.That's how I used to lift a bit higher.

[1monkey600]

Here is my text from a previous thread on the same subject. Remember to check the v/xc70 07- threads as well when looking for info on xc/v60s as most of the mechanicals/electricals are the same on both types.

[quote] This is how I did mine.
Get two preferably different coloured wires about a metre long with a female spade connector on one end of each wire.

Make sure the Handbrake is ON before you start.

Before touching the brake calipers, pads, etc : open the cable connector plug at the back of the caliper and fit the spade connector ends of the wires inside the connector. Touch the other ends of the wires to the spare battery and if nothing (or very little) happens then swap the battery terminals.
You should hear it winding out for a few seconds then as soon as it stops release the wires from the battery.

You can then remove the spade connectors from the back of the caliper, reconnect the connector plug and carry on as per the old days to remove the pads, disc, etc.

Repeat the process on the other wheel. Once it is all buttoned back up you can use the EPB button to reset the pistons

Connect one wire to one side of the spare car battery or 9v lamp battery. (9v fire alarm battery may work too). Touch and hold the 2nd wire to the other end of battery. If nothing happens reverse the connectors. If it starts whirring away keep cables connected until it stops and then immediately cut the current.

NOTE: This method, like when using VIDA or the official Volvo method (as shown in the above video), only retracts the parking brake screw internally - you still need to lever the piston back into the caliper, separately, to change the pads.”

More discussions here:
https://www.volvoforums.org.uk/showthread.php?t=282093 [quote]

[MacV50]

Originally Posted by bomberfr0g

Hi, Can you remember how long it took to wind them back and did the piston spin?
Did u use a tool to get the piston back in?
Haven't got back out to mine yet as too frozen
Thanks

It took no time at all winding them back in with a T40 straight into the back of the caliper. I assume the motor is gear so it turns more slowly but with more torque although doing it by hand requires almost no effort. The piston didn't rotate for me

I used a Draper paddle type tool to push the piston back in. It's a handy tool as I use it on my motorbike calipers and also front brakes in the car.

Originally Posted by jasmith44

Try putting a 4" X 2" thick piece of wood on the top of the jack head.That's how I used to lift a bit higher.

didn't have any to hand unfortunately

[bomberfr0g]

Finally got this done today, ending up buying a tool to push the piston back and this made it so much easier.
Used an old house alarm 12 v battery to wind back with no issues at all.
sadly as I had left it too long one pad had got to metal and turned my alloy orange, this will be fun to remove all of the rust!
shiny new discs and pads and a lot of crap cleaned off, job done.
Did the fronts today also as apparently I am a glutton for punishment, one disc was very badly rusted on the back and full of quarry dust which sets like concrete, significant amount of persuasion and it came off, again lots of crap to clean up but very simple job and should now stop without the horrible wobble it had developed, of note I discovered that my calipers had the disc size stamped on them(very helpful!) as it's hard to know whether you have 300mm or 316mm, I measured as well to be sure but was surprised to see this.
Thankyou to everyone who replied, was very helpful, just goes to show a £20 tool for the job makes it so easier!

[Jamieandthemagic]

https://youtu.be/q2f6FQyfz3U

[Chrisv60]

Don't take the handbrake motor off, use the battery method described in many posts above to wind the motor instead. Much quicker, safer and easier.