Rear Wiper not working

[DC6839]

Yes, all fuses were "pulled" and tested with a multimeter

[myfirstv70]

Originally Posted by Brendan W

One thing they have in common is the stalk control.
Does the wiper make any attempt to move. The spindles in these cars seize up and the thermal overload cuts out. Dismantling and grease sorts it out provided the plastic gears haven't stripped. Symptoms would be slow movement before ultimate failure and stopping in the wrong place.
Does the pump make any attempt to pump?

Mine failed in the above manner; the plastic teeth were stripped.....I understand this is a common issue.
HTH,
Nobby

[Brendan W]

Originally Posted by myfirstv70

Mine failed in the above manner; the plastic teeth were stripped.....I understand this is a common issue.
HTH,
Nobby

What I noticed was a speed reduction or more correctly a speed improvement after greasing. Keep an eye on how fast it's going or not.

[petey]

Originally Posted by DC6839

Yes, all fuses were "pulled" and tested with a multimeter

Sorry, didn’t mean to teach granny and all that, but that one has caught me enough times to make me cautious...

[R-P]

Also listen for a clicking sound. There is an auto resetting fuse in the rear wiper assembly: if it is drawing too much current, this *should* intervene and stop the wiper dead in its tracks. Once the fuse cools off, it will continue to (try to) move.

Mine consumed 7 ampere before cleaning and greasing and 0.7A after...

(Note to self: go find the darn pics already so you can update your post about the repair from >5 years ago!!!)

[doodasv70]

Reviving yet again.

My rear wiper is constantly blowing the fuse. I have checked the cables that run from the tailgate and the body and they are all in good order - visibly at least.

When I put a new fuse in, the wiper runs for 20 seconds or so and then the fuse blows.

I have already replaced the motor unit as the previous one went kaput.

Any thoughts on where the problem lies?

[aland]

It can pretty much only be a faulty motor (again).
It must be pulling excessive current, which blows the fuse.
If you have a clamp DC ammeter with peak-hold, you could see how much current it's drawing.
I assume when you replaced the motor, you replaced the whole mechanism in one go?
It's likely that the shaft through the screen is corroded, causing extra friction, which results in excessive current. Lubricating it with silicone spray *might* help, but I suspect replacement is the only proper cure.