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700/900 Series General Forum for the Volvo 740, 760, 780, 940, 960 & S/V90 cars |
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940 exhaustViews : 1399 Replies : 29Users Viewing This Thread : |
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Nov 29th, 2018, 11:38 | #21 |
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As long as you treat the hole that would work, it might rot from there outwards otherwise. You also might hear a slight blow from the hole too as it doesn’t take a big hole to make noise.
To be brutally honest there are only two things I don’t like about stainless exhausts, first is the tinny noise it can make (sounds strange like small bell in the exhaust but you don’t notice it after a while) and second is if it’s not welded or supported correctly it’s prone to splitting welds but that’s where good Tig welders at the exhaust builders earn their money. I don’t have any flexi sections in my exhaust (I bought one just in case but didn’t use it) and so far it’s been about 14 months and all the Tig welds have held so I must have done a good enough job.
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Nov 29th, 2018, 11:56 | #22 | |
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You mention tinny noise. Thank you. There is a forum member in the 240 section whose stainless exhaust has a vibration. Apparently the known supplier says the outlet of the exhaust needs a small extension to fully clear the car body. I'm not feeling convinced. |
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Nov 29th, 2018, 13:02 | #23 |
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I’ve only really noticed it on systems with less noise, the louder systems tend to drown it out but then you have to put up with lots of noise at higher speeds (really annoying at motorway speeds).
I’ve built a few exhausts but the one I built for my Polo GT was loud, more so at idle than driving speeds. Single round rear box that was too small really, no cat and a 4 branch manifold then 2” straight to the box. Couldn’t hear the tinny noise until I was outside the car especially with the bonnet up. The Volvo you can hear it in the cabin but it’s not very loud.
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Nov 29th, 2018, 13:15 | #24 | |
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The real "tinny" sounds tend to be on the thinner walled silencers, the thicker ones are usually the raspberry sound or some don't even do it at all, just give a strange "crack" to the exhaust note, especially when giving it the beans. Good point about treating the back box if a hole is drilled, after some recent events i think i'd be inclined to lag the whole exhaust sytem with heatwrap, it will warm the back box up more and evaporate that condensation off.
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Nov 29th, 2018, 13:34 | #25 |
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940 exhaust
I was thinking of trying to fit this myself so would put the car on ramps in the garage.
What issues could i come accross ? access to bolts from downpipe to turbo ? Unable to undo bolts to turbo ( I have limited tools ) anything else ? Cheers
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Nov 29th, 2018, 14:35 | #26 | |
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Also some emery cloth, wire brush and similar to clean the mating faces of the turbo, downpipes, and so on, if your system has "U" clamps to clamp the sleeve type joins, obtain some washers to go on before the nuts - usually M8 with 13mm nuts on the clamps. When it comes to actually fitting, if the sleeve-joins are reasonably tight/snug, use some copper grease to help them slip in and find their gas-tight position, if they're a bit loose, use some sealant such as Firegum, Gun-Gum or similar. Do NOT use sealant upstream of the cat, if it gets in the cat it will block it! Sometimes it is much easier to leave the mounting bands loose on the silencers to get the bands hung in their rubbers, again copper grease or red rubber/silicone grease can help get the metal parts into the rubbers. Once the bands are in the mounting rubbers, get the box mounted loosely in them and everything connected up - DON'T tighten all the exhaust clamps etc at this stage, just finger tight. Once everything is fitted and all clamps etc are finger tight, start the engine and working from front to back, just nip the nuts/bolts up so that there isn't a blow from that join. Do this evenly, a turn or two on each fastening then the opposite one until the join just stops blowing. Once you reach the back and have nipped up the last join so it just stops blowing, give the tailpipe a shake in all directions to make sure that firstly it's straight and seated in the rubbers and secondly that there are no untoward knocks, rattles or similar where the system is making contact with the underbody at any point. If all is well, start tightening the fastenings beginning with the bands that hold the silencers. Then again, working from front to back, tighten all nuts/bolts etc evenly to the specified torque and in the abscence of torque figures, to what you feel is tight enough. During all this, the engine and exhaust system will still be warming up so go careful with the toasty bits! However, as things expand when they get hot, the bolts etc will expand and stretch slightly, the sleeve-joins will expand slightly etc so as you tighten things up when hot, having made sure everything is lined up correctly, you will find the right gas-tight positions and get rid of any potential blows as they happen due to expansion from cold. While this might seem a bit of a faff, it doesn't actually take that long to do (probably took me longer to type it) and pays enormous dividends in getting it leak-free first time and not knocking/rubbing on the underbody etc. Good luck with it, let us know how it goes!
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Nov 29th, 2018, 15:00 | #27 |
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13mm nuts all the way through if i remember correctly. bottom stud nut on the turbo can be a pain if your not under the car other than that i did mine on homemade wooden ramps out the front of my house 45 mins.
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Nov 29th, 2018, 18:16 | #28 |
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I used longer nuts on my turbo flange as they are a pain to get on, longer nuts allow you to get a spanner on at better angles without slipping off the face of the nut.
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Dec 12th, 2018, 20:20 | #29 |
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Full exhaust fitted to Trigger today
Now sounding sweet as a nut
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Dec 15th, 2018, 12:07 | #30 |
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they must have been smoking something i replaced mine on my 2.3 non turbo front pipe new cat middle and rear sections 168 quid all in for the parts took me an hr to fit with all new gaskets nuts ect
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