|
PV, 120 (Amazon), 1800 General Forum for the Volvo PV, 120 and 1800 cars |
Information |
|
Brake light switchViews : 8844 Replies : 42Users Viewing This Thread : |
|
Thread Tools | Display Modes |
Dec 1st, 2015, 14:53 | #11 |
Premier Member
Last Online: Today 01:20
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: Connecticut, USA
|
...more trash goods from China...or as I like to say: China's best!
...those guys could ***k up a junkyard... |
Dec 1st, 2015, 17:48 | #12 |
Premier Member
Last Online: Apr 22nd, 2024 19:39
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Falmouth
|
I'm sure they are not China's best parts, they are parts that are built down to a price so people over here and over there can make a fat profit. The Chinese have a more than admirable engineering ability.
__________________
Falmouth, Cornwall. 1970 California white 131. |
Dec 1st, 2015, 18:55 | #13 |
New Member
Last Online: Dec 16th, 2015 19:52
Join Date: Nov 2015
Location: chorley
|
Thank you Ron and Underdrive for your responses. Ron your information is most useful, its technical detail leaves no doubt that the current re-manufactured switch is not fit for purpose. As Underdrive has stated the original OEM switch was far superior in its longevity, in fact many have lasted decades rather than weeks and months. This switch typifies just one of many quality issues and frustrations that Classic Car Marques are facing in the day to day maintenance of their vehicles. This switch may also be quite unique as it was fitted to most British Cars and some European models from the mid fifties through to the mid seventies and in fact my calculations suggest that 50,000 vehicles are still on the road and using it!
As a retired aviation quality engineer I am concerned that the specialist suppliers now facing contracting with far east are inadequately performing their duties and responsibilities in law. This points to poor management within their companies and there is evidence in some instances that they are complicit in their actions. It is clear to me that we, the car clubs, need to take some action, although quite how we protest or are heard is eluding me at the moment as all I have lobbied, the classic car media and even some of the TV petrol head celebrities appear not to be interested. So any ideas would be welcome. |
The Following User Says Thank You to davybl For This Useful Post: |
Dec 2nd, 2015, 06:24 | #14 |
New Member
Last Online: Dec 16th, 2015 19:52
Join Date: Nov 2015
Location: chorley
|
Our investigations reveal that the switch can be procured for between 15 and 20 British pence per thousand minimum order quantity. The retail price ranges from £4 to £5+ with one extortionate mini trader asking £14+!
|
The Following 4 Users Say Thank You to davybl For This Useful Post: |
Apr 23rd, 2016, 13:41 | #15 |
Premier Member
Last Online: Today 01:20
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: Connecticut, USA
|
davybl;
Has anything come of this?? Cheers |
Dec 27th, 2016, 17:09 | #16 |
Member
Last Online: Oct 10th, 2018 15:02
Join Date: Sep 2015
Location: Somerset
|
Hey folks,
Unfortunately, I think Sven, our 64 Amazon, has now suffered brake switch failure, but wanted to make sure with ya'll before contacting our electrics fella! Fired him up this morning, to take some friends out for the day, and did the usual 'check all lights are working' routine, but although the rear lights came on okay, no brake lights. So I removed and rotated all the fuses in the box in the engine bay, in case of oxidisation, and checked that the 'second filament' in each rear light was intact, but still no brake lights. Does that deffo mean that the brake switch needs replacing or upgrading? Our electrics dude, Julian over at Coombend Auto Electrical in Radstock, is really good and has a lot of experience with classics, notably Minis. I'm guessing that he's familiar with pressure-sensing switches failing! Could there be any other issue causing the rear lights to work but not the brake 'filaments' to light up? Please advise, and 'happy' holidays! |
Dec 27th, 2016, 17:51 | #17 |
VOC Member
Last Online: Yesterday 20:59
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: Chatham
|
To prove the switch just short the 2 wires together. If the lights come, on the switch is u/s.
|
The Following User Says Thank You to Derek UK For This Useful Post: |
Dec 27th, 2016, 18:04 | #18 |
Member
Last Online: Oct 10th, 2018 15:02
Join Date: Sep 2015
Location: Somerset
|
Thanks Derek, I guess it must be the 'early' type – found the relevant part of the service documentation, is there a way to lubricate/clean the existing switch, so if it's just gunged up it'll start working again, or is it 'not working, full replacement' or upgrade to the 'pedal position' type?
So to find out whether it's deffo the switch, I should first put a piece of wire across where the two electrical wires are, and if the brake light come on, that's deffo the issue? At this point, if it'd be possible for me to simply replace the existing switch, I'd rather do that, but does the brake system have to be bled, as per step 5 in the grab from the manual attached? Last edited by SvenSomerset; Dec 27th, 2016 at 19:12. |
Dec 27th, 2016, 20:35 | #19 |
Premier Member
Last Online: Today 01:20
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: Connecticut, USA
|
Sven;
Test for Brake Lights should be performed, with Ign Sw ON! I always recommend full upgrade to a Pedal Position Sensing Switch, for all the advantages, but if you confirm Hydraulic Pressure Sensing Sw as nonworking (typical!), and insist on simply replacing it, Braking system must be opened for that, so will need to be bled. See also: http://www.sw-em.com/safety_bulletin_1.htm Good Hunting! Edit: Answer to your specific question: If other Fuse 2 load (Reversing Lights, Horns) are working fine, then Fuse 2 is OK and failure is quite likely Br Lt Sw. Test as previously explained. Last edited by Ron Kwas; Dec 27th, 2016 at 22:57. Reason: Added specific answer to question |
The Following User Says Thank You to Ron Kwas For This Useful Post: |
Dec 28th, 2016, 09:23 | #20 |
Member
Last Online: Oct 10th, 2018 15:02
Join Date: Sep 2015
Location: Somerset
|
Thanks, Ron. We'll pop round to our storage garage tomorrow and perform the test to make sure it's the switch. This is really disappointing, as we won't have been able to use Sven over the holiday season. :-(
I guess I'll have to ring both our previously mentioned electrics fella and our trusted local mechanic, and see whether they can perform the switch upgrade, or simply replace the existing one. Ron, do you have your RHD switch upgrade kit in stock, and if so, how much would airmail shipping to the UK be? Please advise... |
Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests) | |
|
|