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Old Feb 11th, 2019, 20:42   #21
Black dog
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MarvinMitt View Post
Wow, 800 gives a good price per hour



Not correct. The bolt holes in the absorbers have plenty of play to adjust for camber.
If you plan to change the balljoint only, then the safest, simplest and Volvo workshop way of disassembling the balljoint is using ratchet straps around both control arms and pull it/them down with it.
Watch the video in the link. No camber setting!
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Old Feb 11th, 2019, 21:07   #22
ThomasG
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actually, Marvin is correct.
I remember when i had it first set, on a 3d (dual camera) machine, i had access to system computer and it was showing how to adjust camber on these 2 bolts on shock#

100% sure of this thing

so.. temporary plan of action (that is- to be changed to suit the needs):
possibly soon change both these balljoints, observe car behaviour afterwards- maybe ill get away without traction, maybe not

if i do need traction after this, it will be around 50 at general garage 3 miles from home or around 70 at volvo independent 10 minutes walk from home

then summer- if i still feel like it- change shocks, arms, droplinks, whatnot
estimated cost of parts 400 (plus spring compressors)
i feel confident that i can do it all myself
after that- same machine, 3D traction on 4 wheels for around 20.. maybe 25(inflation)
third year in a row turning up for the same thing.. they`ll look at me like i`m crazy

explanation:
2017- inner steering joints replaced, traction after
2018- CV joint replaced, traction after
2019... i`m coooominnnggg!!
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I'm not saying its the only possible right way of doing it. This is my experience. This is my opinion. You get your own.

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Old Feb 11th, 2019, 21:27   #23
ThomasG
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copied straight from VIDA (each time i need to look into it i have to reboot to windows and then back to my "home" environment, brrrrrrr)
Quote:

Checking the camber angle, front

Check the camber angle on both sides.

Adjusting the camber angle, front

M6100285 Conditions
The camber angle is adjusted by moving the stub axle at the upper hole in the spring strut outwards or inwards depending on the value measured.
If the stub axle is centred in the spring strut, the degree of adjustment is 0.5.
Adjustment
Raise the front end.
Remove
the instrument
the wheel.
Replace the screws and nuts securing the spring strut to the stub axle. Tighten to light contact.
Press the stub axle in or out to the maximum, depending on the value measured in relation to the spring strut.
Tighten the screws according to Tightening torque .
Install
the wheel. See Installing wheels .
the instrument and make a new adjustment according to the instructions.
Lower the car on the turn table. Rock the car a few times. Check the values.
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I'm not saying its the only possible right way of doing it. This is my experience. This is my opinion. You get your own.

`03 V70 Mk2 Auto 2.4 B5244 NA, 170Bhp, 270K miles
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Old Yesterday, 23:20   #24
vampwitch
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I replaced mine and the inner tie rod in my garage, one Friday morning last November. Quite a straight forward job if you are handy with tools and feel confident enough to do it. My ball joint was about 80 from Volvo, but as I did the track rod end and inner tie rod at the same time they came to about 270 all in. Still cheaper than just the quote from Volvo for the ball joint alone. Watch the FRP on YouTube. Volvo Control Arm & Ball Joint Replacement - No Press Needed! (S60, S80, V70, XC70, XC90).

That tool is a god send.
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