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Advice : Old 122 ‘66 foot switch removal

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Old Jan 19th, 2019, 19:01   #21
BLS07
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ron Kwas View Post
BLS;

This is becoming unnecessarily more complicated than it should be...having removed one screw allows measuring size (OD) and threadpitch (count threads per distance) both in imperial and metric (if necessary, enlist the help of a machinist for this)...once this is known, compare it to standard thread listings, and it will become immediately obvious what you are dealing with, and what needs to be procured...
“Never seen those before” hogwash!...I'm quite sure they didn't come up with a new screw thread for just this component, but used an absolutely standard one [and if for instance this happens to work out to be SAE 6-32 (as in size 6 by 32 threads per inch), contact me through SW-EM, and I'll be happy to send you a couple of brass screws as I stock these and use them in the restoration of Fuseblocks!]
Further...Amazons are indeed mostly imperial sized hardware... except for Bosch (or second source German supplier like SWF) supplied electrical or ignition components...so this could go either way, but I'm betting it's a dirt simple 6-32 (SAE) screw...install with ACZP on threads and wire!

Cheers
Hi Ron,

Thanks for this - I agree it’s iver complicated : just need a supplier of correct size screws and I’m set.

Was only sharing the update / hassle of acquiring these three grub screws seems to be through usual avenues. Maddening that hardware stores & “specialist” hardware providers go blank when presented with the physical component.

Found a guy who machines his own brass screws and has a wide range of grub screws : http://www.ba-bolts.co.uk

Spoke with today - and going to try the M6 x 6mm

That said - Ron - Thank you I’ll contact you through SW-EM too.

Cheers!
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Old Jan 19th, 2019, 19:23   #22
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Originally Posted by Derek UK View Post
OK, just buy this. Post free so you won't get it much cheaper.
https://www.ebay.co.uk/p/Daimler-Sp2...d=322544547259
Thanks Derek!

I’ve got a spare switch - via Brookhouse.
Different screw set.

And the OE foot switch ain’t coming out - I’m not about to get heavy handed with it either. Prefer to simply re-house with new grub screws and off we go!
...as the wiring is all 100% functional.

Suggesting it’s the two deteriorated grub screws which gave way to poor connections and conductivity.

Appreciate this isn’t the most interesting of threads - but - at 52 years old the IE switch has been otherwise fine and I’m keen to retain it.

Most grateful for the terrific VOC help & feedback too!

Cheers!
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Old Jan 21st, 2019, 22:25   #23
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You should be able to remove the two retainer screws with one of these. There are YouTube videos showing how to use it if you haven't any experience with one. There is a bit of a knack. Just put a bit of rotational pressure on it will pressing down to give it a bit of help.
https://www.ebay.co.uk/p/Amtech-14pc...2478596&chn=ps

Look at 11:20 to 13:25 on this video
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qrU5Lytl3EQ
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Old Jan 25th, 2019, 00:23   #24
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Originally Posted by Derek UK View Post
You should be able to remove the two retainer screws with one of these. There are YouTube videos showing how to use it if you haven't any experience with one. There is a bit of a knack. Just put a bit of rotational pressure on it will pressing down to give it a bit of help.
https://www.ebay.co.uk/p/Amtech-14pc...2478596&chn=ps

Look at 11:20 to 13:25 on this video
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qrU5Lytl3EQ
Hi Derek,

Tremendous thanks for the above, especially for finding and sharing the product and you tube link. Mega thanks for the advice!

Your advice has always been solid : I’ll try your suggestion!

I had (very briefly) considered using my old screw extractors & some good old brute force, but was concerned with possibility of being too forceful on this 52yr strong original switch.
Keen to keep car as original as possible.

(Check our the old info insert in my Amazon’s fusebox: which I’ve left as it. The card, not the fuse base)

1) Awaiting on correct grub screws (4mm x 7.6mm per the verniers callipers)
As I feel it’s not the switch, but was the wired connection that had come loose re 2 x busted old brass screws.

2) if issue persists - impact driver the ‘ruddy screws out.

3) Refurb the switch!

Picking up an impact driver tomorrow, anyway. Makes sense to add to the tool-box. New Torque-wrench next...

Thanks again Derek.

Cheers!
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Old Jan 25th, 2019, 12:17   #25
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Good to see the original fuse box lid insert, they are usually missing.
A daily squirt of Plus Gas on the two screws a good idea before you start banging away. Good luck.

London? Where are you?
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Old Jan 25th, 2019, 17:56   #26
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I'm trying to understand why anyone would go thru half this effort to retain this foot switch setup.

To upgrade to the (140, 240, 740, 940) headlight step relay utilizing the headlight flasher wire to control high/low beam switching and eliminate the foot switch ENTIRELY is the only route that makes any sense to me (or the rest of the automotive world after ~1970).

If the car belonged in a museum but was actually going to be driven at night, I might hide the step relay under the dash and leave the unconnected foot switch in place, to preserve "originality".

FWIW I have several previously removed perfectly good said foot switches, one virtually brand new; they were made by a variety of manufacturers.
I would be happy to send you one for the cost of postage; I see no future for them with me.
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Old Jan 26th, 2019, 00:17   #27
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Derek UK View Post
Good to see the original fuse box lid insert, they are usually missing.
A daily squirt of Plus Gas on the two screws a good idea before you start banging away. Good luck.

London? Where are you?
Thanks again Derek, much appreciate the time & advice as always.
Once done, or if totally snagged : I’ll update here.

Yes it’s kind of cool to have the original fuse insert intact.
I’m chuffed with the little aspects like that.

Yep, London indeed.

Cheers!
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Old Jan 26th, 2019, 00:44   #28
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Thanks northNH, I just may take you up on a switch or two!
Can I keep you posted on that score ?

I know this switch thing may seem madness - I know - but I prefer to learn about & maintain vintage stuff rather than swap it out for new or add new modern functions.

If the switch - or some other part - won’t function / can’t be adequately refurbished or cleaned up, then of course the car must function and I’ll swap in a new or alternate refurbed part.

Cheers!
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