Volvo Community Forum. The Forums of the Volvo Owners Club

Forum Rules Volvo Owners Club About VOC Volvo Gallery Links Volvo History Volvo Press
Go Back   Volvo Owners Club Forum > "Technical Topics" > PV, 120 (Amazon), 1800 General

Notices

PV, 120 (Amazon), 1800 General Forum for the Volvo PV, 120 and 1800 cars

Information
  • VOC Members: There is no login facility using your VOC membership number or the details from page 3 of the club magazine. You need to register in the normal way
  • AOL Customers: Make sure you check the 'Remember me' check box otherwise the AOL system may log you out during the session. This is a known issue with AOL.
  • AOL, Yahoo and Plus.net users. Forum owners such as us are finding that AOL, Yahoo and Plus.net are blocking a lot of email generated from forums. This may mean your registration activation and other emails will not get to you, or they may appear in your spam mailbox

Thread Informations

Volvo PV444 wins 1957 Petit Lemans at Lime Rock!

Views : 85338

Replies : 281

Users Viewing This Thread :  

Reply
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
Old Mar 23rd, 2018, 13:59   #21
Army
marches on his stomach
 

Last Online: Feb 11th, 2022 04:15
Join Date: Jan 2018
Location: Somewhere in the Netherlands
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by blueosprey90 View Post
MGA? - just about every night after work! But It's still below freezing in the garage and I wish it would warm up.

Last season at about this time, I lent my spare engine to another racer who had blown his engine in his season opener. But he broke the crankcase in my spare engine a week after I broke mine in my main engine. He called last night with news that he is bringing the repaired engine - at least the bottom end - north in about 10 days time. The head is "iffy" - not quite done - but I have a stock head that I can use in a pinch.

On my main engine and another spare block, the machinist has finally made some progress. I already received the rods and I just ordered pistons yesterday. I also have a "ghost main' crankshaft on order (what was I thinking?). But clearly that engine will not be done anytime soon.

I also spent a lot of time preparing another engine block that I originally came with the car. That block is ready for assembly, but I know it is out of spec in some critical areas and am hesitant. But I also don't want to spend any money on that block!

In the meanwhile, I've been working on the chassis, mostly the brakes and the steering rack.

As for the Volvo, I think I can get it on track without a roll bar, running in what they call the "preservation class". Actually, some members of the club are quite anxious for me to bring it. The biggest issue facing me is seat belts. Otherwise I need a fire extinguisher, overflow catch cans for the engine (oil) and radiator and to safety wire the drain plugs for engine, transmission and differential. New tires would be nice, but I think I might have a short term solution.

The floor board is quite solid enough and won't be an issue.
Oh dear those engine troubles do sound expensive.

As for the PV - seat belts - do you need a proper four point harness or just a three point set up?
__________________
1961 Volvo PV544 the quick and easy in between project(!)
1981 Mercedes 300D <=> 230 diesel to petrol conversion project
1965 Series 2a Station Wagon mega build
1992 Mercedes 190E The car that works!
Army is offline   Reply With Quote
Old Mar 26th, 2018, 03:17   #22
blueosprey90
Master Member
 

Last Online: Today 16:06
Join Date: May 2017
Location: New Milford, Connecticut
Default

I had great expectations for the weekend. But on Saturday morning, I espied a Craigslist ad for a B20 motor about 2 and a half hours away. Knowing absolutely anything about the B20 motor, I decided to go get it on the theory that I should buy when the item is available.

As usual, the spare motor was not very well cared for, but it spins and someone put a substantial amount of grease at the front crank where a pulley should be. It is a B20 4969 29 25945 that I think was used in the 140 series. I have no idea what the carburation was, but the intake / exhaust manifold has butterfly valves built in. The fellow I bought it from, however, gave me a intake / exhaust manifold which I can use for SU carbs. He suggested that the manifold was rare and worth more than the engine. Of course, I know nothing.

I spent a good portion of today cleaning it up and building a "box" for it to sit in so it is upright. Then I moved it to the barn that I rent for storage. I now have two spare engines. That should be enough!

Although I didn't have a chance with the wire wheel, I think my passenger side and both rear floorboards are is pretty good condition with no rust through.

The steering wheel repair is coming along. Although I have patched the cracks, the entire rim is cloudy perhaps because of the sun's ultraviolet rays. Not sure what to do, and was hoping to get a small quantity, two part epoxy paint in black, but can't find any.

I'm trying to post photos of the steering wheel.

I pulled the steering wheel with the 2 arm gear puller once I pushed the turn signal housing behind the steering wheel towards the dash (photo 1). Photo 2 shows the turn signal mechanism inside the housing behind the wheel. The turn signal stalk was held on with a 12mm nut that I could get at from the small end near the dash. I had two cracks in the wheel that I repaired with PC-7.
Attached Images
File Type: jpg DSCF3293 reduced 2.jpg (181.5 KB, 15 views)
File Type: jpg DSCF3294 reduced 2.jpg (141.4 KB, 13 views)
File Type: jpg DSCF3298 freduced 2.jpg (109.4 KB, 14 views)
File Type: jpg DSCF3300 freduced 2.jpg (155.9 KB, 16 views)
blueosprey90 is online now   Reply With Quote
Old Mar 26th, 2018, 13:21   #23
Derek UK
VOC Member
 
Derek UK's Avatar
 

Last Online: Today 16:23
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: Chatham
Default

The manifold with the butterflies is at best, undesirable. The butterflies are for emissions purposes and it's inefficient even when the butterflies work. If the extra manifold is a similar one piece one with dual exhaust outlets but without the butterflies, it could be the best Volvo one and work well. Post a pic.

You might be able to find a body shop that is spraying a black car. A couple of black base coats and multiple clear coats should give it a long life. Mask the centre off before you take it in. Audi repair shop?
Derek UK is online now   Reply With Quote
Old Mar 29th, 2018, 14:57   #24
blueosprey90
Master Member
 

Last Online: Today 16:06
Join Date: May 2017
Location: New Milford, Connecticut
Default

Derek, that spare B20 engine is in storage. Next time I go there I'll take some pictures.

Today's question concerns the paint.

My car is California White, color code 42. It seems that it is painted with either a "synthetic enamel" or a "cellulose enamel" by Glasurit. There are several high heat temp drying paints listed in the factory manual, but for my purposes, also an air drying enamel listed as Glassomax Lackemaille Air Drying California 20 - Volvo 117". I'm not sure if the "California 20 - Volvo 117" signifies some different paint code.

In any event, I think I've found a source (www.autocolorlibrary.com) for some white paint, California White #42, that I can get in several options:

Acrylic Enamel;
Acrylic Urethane;
Acrylic Lacquer;
Urethane Basecoat and
Low VOC UBLV Urethane Basecoat - the last one being a water based paint, I believe.

My car has about 80% percent paint in reasonable condition, but some large areas that need to be addressed and repainted.

I want a compatible paint suitable for a guy who will be using a spray gun for the first time and who isn't too good with rattle can paints.

Any suggestions as to which paint option I should choose? And the reason?
blueosprey90 is online now   Reply With Quote
Old Mar 29th, 2018, 18:26   #25
Army
marches on his stomach
 

Last Online: Feb 11th, 2022 04:15
Join Date: Jan 2018
Location: Somewhere in the Netherlands
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by blueosprey90 View Post
Derek, that spare B20 engine is in storage. Next time I go there I'll take some pictures.

Today's question concerns the paint.

My car is California White, color code 42. It seems that it is painted with either a "synthetic enamel" or a "cellulose enamel" by Glasurit. There are several high heat temp drying paints listed in the factory manual, but for my purposes, also an air drying enamel listed as Glassomax Lackemaille Air Drying California 20 - Volvo 117". I'm not sure if the "California 20 - Volvo 117" signifies some different paint code.

In any event, I think I've found a source (www.autocolorlibrary.com) for some white paint, California White #42, that I can get in several options:

Acrylic Enamel;
Acrylic Urethane;
Acrylic Lacquer;
Urethane Basecoat and
Low VOC UBLV Urethane Basecoat - the last one being a water based paint, I believe.

My car has about 80% percent paint in reasonable condition, but some large areas that need to be addressed and repainted.

I want a compatible paint suitable for a guy who will be using a spray gun for the first time and who isn't too good with rattle can paints.

Any suggestions as to which paint option I should choose? And the reason?
You are in a similar position to me at the moment. Lots of the paint is OK but enough of it isn´t...

...any decent paint shop will encourage you to strip what you have and start again because: The problem you will probably face is that different paint systems can react with each other.

Some people might recommend a sealer before painting - in this case they say you might be able to mix different systems.
__________________
1961 Volvo PV544 the quick and easy in between project(!)
1981 Mercedes 300D <=> 230 diesel to petrol conversion project
1965 Series 2a Station Wagon mega build
1992 Mercedes 190E The car that works!
Army is offline   Reply With Quote
Old Mar 29th, 2018, 23:39   #26
blueosprey90
Master Member
 

Last Online: Today 16:06
Join Date: May 2017
Location: New Milford, Connecticut
Wink

Suggest that I go to a decent paint shop ?

The body shop around the corner from me gave up collision work and in now doing "custom builds" . I can see the quality of the work through the window. It's stunning - and they already know how to do a custom '46 Ford, so the Volvo would be a piece of cake.

I figure that if I strip the car down and deliver it along with a bag of cash containing $10,000 U.S., that I'd have a lovely paint job and a car that is worth about $8,000.

Then once I figure in the additional cost of the alimony payments, the gloss of the shiny new paint is significantly diminished.
blueosprey90 is online now   Reply With Quote
Old Mar 30th, 2018, 00:38   #27
Army
marches on his stomach
 

Last Online: Feb 11th, 2022 04:15
Join Date: Jan 2018
Location: Somewhere in the Netherlands
Default

I´m not saying you necessarily need to repaint but I think you need to be prepared for it / at least everyone telling you you need to...

...how much of the bad paint is on parts you can remove?

You could for example leave the body in what ever condition it is and repaint the wings and bonnet and boot lid. You could even be honest and do those parts in a different colour (!)

#####

I don´t suppose it is time to take about the 50 dollar paint job yet is it?
__________________
1961 Volvo PV544 the quick and easy in between project(!)
1981 Mercedes 300D <=> 230 diesel to petrol conversion project
1965 Series 2a Station Wagon mega build
1992 Mercedes 190E The car that works!
Army is offline   Reply With Quote
Old Mar 31st, 2018, 00:27   #28
blueosprey90
Master Member
 

Last Online: Today 16:06
Join Date: May 2017
Location: New Milford, Connecticut
Default

Facebook just popped up this photo of my "other" car from six years ago.



I was heading out to run it at Lime Rock on 3/31, i.e. tomorrow

The car sits today in storage, yet another casualty of "global warming" and extremely late spring.
blueosprey90 is online now   Reply With Quote
Old Mar 31st, 2018, 17:08   #29
blueosprey90
Master Member
 

Last Online: Today 16:06
Join Date: May 2017
Location: New Milford, Connecticut
Default

Question de jure: I'm midway through replacing the transmission mount. I think the transmission is an M4. The replacement mount that I purchased is round, but the sleeve for the through bolt is off center, with more rubber on one side that the other. I'm thinking the thicker rubber goes on the bottom.

Any knowledge out there?

The old mount was so far gone that I couldn't tell, although it looked like the sleeve for the through bolt was more in the center.
blueosprey90 is online now   Reply With Quote
Old Apr 1st, 2018, 13:50   #30
Army
marches on his stomach
 

Last Online: Feb 11th, 2022 04:15
Join Date: Jan 2018
Location: Somewhere in the Netherlands
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by blueosprey90 View Post
Question de jure: I'm midway through replacing the transmission mount. I think the transmission is an M4. The replacement mount that I purchased is round, but the sleeve for the through bolt is off center, with more rubber on one side that the other. I'm thinking the thicker rubber goes on the bottom.

Any knowledge out there?

The old mount was so far gone that I couldn't tell, although it looked like the sleeve for the through bolt was more in the center.
Réponse du jour: I can´t find a section for replacing either the front or rear engine mounts (as the gearbox one is often called) - looking at the spares book, however, it seems as though the thinner bit is at the bottom. Not what I´d have expected either...
__________________
1961 Volvo PV544 the quick and easy in between project(!)
1981 Mercedes 300D <=> 230 diesel to petrol conversion project
1965 Series 2a Station Wagon mega build
1992 Mercedes 190E The car that works!
Army is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply


Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off

Forum Jump


All times are GMT +1. The time now is 16:23.


Powered by vBulletin
Copyright ©2000 - 2024, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.