Liqui Moly

[5cilinder]

Look in the 0w30 thread on my rant of dealers and their "recommendations" its all commercial and emmissions motivated and a lot of people who dont know anything find it save to follow an authority brainlessly
The did advise a4/b4 oils (moost commonly 5w40 synthetic) pre dpf d5ś with same cilinders and pistons and now suddenly the turboś blow up because of the stronger oilfilm and better dopes?
Ask them why the valvelifters wear out post dpf! ill tell you thin wateroils dilluted with fuel but you wont hear that from them
No information on software updates the eternal silence on the rising oillevels they tell you nothing but i doubt they know much besides following a flowchart
I even did have to explain to techs there how shut off daylight in vida because they wanted it to sell me a "softwarepacket" to do that for me
Laughable

[monkeh]

Is liquimoly a low saps oil? I wonder if it'll go on an OM642.

[skyship007]

Originally Posted by monkeh

Is liquimoly a low saps oil? I wonder if it'll go on an OM642.

Liqui Moly do make low saps oils (Reduced Zinc based additives) for the DPF afflicted, just use their oil finder page of their web site and it will list all of their oils that are a good match.

Synthoil High Tech is a real German standard full synthetic, but was expensive in the UK. The best used oil analysis results I've got so far were from using Synthoil High Tech 5w40 (A3/B4), but they do make an 0w30 and 40 that are good for DPF sufferers.

If you want a turbo to last, use a real Volvo oil filter and cut the Max recommended oil change interval in half. In technical terms LM Synthoil and Shell Ultra are both better than Castrol Edge or Mobil 1.

Shell Ultra is probably cheaper than Liqui Moly Synthoil if you are looking for the best oil available and it's results were very close to those of using the real McCoy Synthoil.

[skyship007]

Originally Posted by 5cilinder

Look in the 0w30 thread on my rant of dealers and their "recommendations" its all commercial and emmissions motivated and a lot of people who dont know anything find it save to follow an authority brainlessly
The did advise a4/b4 oils (moost commonly 5w40 synthetic) pre dpf d5ś with same cilinders and pistons and now suddenly the turboś blow up because of the stronger oilfilm and better dopes?
Ask them why the valvelifters wear out post dpf! ill tell you thin wateroils dilluted with fuel but you wont hear that from them
No information on software updates the eternal silence on the rising oillevels they tell you nothing but i doubt they know much besides following a flowchart
I even did have to explain to techs there how shut off daylight in vida because they wanted it to sell me a "softwarepacket" to do that for me
Laughable

Very true and one solution is to use a major brand full synthetic 0 or 5w40 that is low saps (DPF approved) and replace the reduced level of Zinc based additives with Liqui Moly Ceratec (Half a can every OCI is enough in my opinion). The other option is to do what the turbo manufacturers say and change the oil much more often. Some of the Max OCI limits are truly nuts if you have any degree of fuel contamination or a big right boot, 30K km should be 10 to 15km in my opinion.

Valve lifter wear is obvious in a used oil analysis, although impending turbo bearing failures are less so.
Top end trouble that is not rings related results in high Iron and Aluminium in the used oil, whilst bad turbo bearings might show high Iron and Copper, BUT not all turbos fail from poor lubrication and when they do the failure can be fairly sudden, so UOA is less reliable in that respect.