960 losing coolant

[Chris50]

That's reassuring thanks.
I made the mistake of assuming the seller was being honest when we talked about any issues...I didn't even realize the sunroof was meant to slide and remember thinking it's a shame it doesn't slide back like it did on my old SD1...it wasn't until the garage lent me their 850 that I twigged!
Hopefully the kseal has worked but I'm not sure if I should add some more as I have lost all the coolant when the hose split and topping up so none in there now or perhaps 5 days is long enough?
I could see bits of it in the coolant tank when first added.

[Laird Scooby]

I wouldn't add any more K-Seal - ever! Fit the new heater hose, a new coolant expansion tank cap and then keep an eye on things.

Where does the temperature gauge sit once it's been running 10 minutes?

[Chris50]

Yes it seems the seller was a tad economical with the facts.
I did wonder if the hose may have been the problem all along but they pressure checked it.
I have just remove the hose( not fun)to try and do a better repair as want to use car tomorrow and the split is quite bad( 2cm).
I agree that mechanical stuff can be fixed and would like to get some use from it as total cost so far is adding up.New radiator,power steering pipe plus I had a full service done when purchased and window tint and bought some paint to tidy up bumpers.I thought was a good buy with years MOT but spent more than purchase price on it now.

[Chris50]

Originally Posted by Laird Scooby

I wouldn't add any more K-Seal - ever! Fit the new heater hose, a new coolant expansion tank cap and then keep an eye on things.

Where does the temperature gauge sit once it's been running 10 minutes?

Yes I agree and will do that I think.
The temperature gauge always sits in same place once car is warmed up...just above halfway

[Stephen Edwin]

I am not sure what you are saying about the hose and pressure testing, because you say it leaks. Anyway. Yes change it.

Personally, I would not change the pressure cap, or not yet. When you have changed the hose you will find out if that is THE problem. Or if there is a remaining problem. Then make ongoing decisions. One change at a time reduces the chace of confuddling the situation as to cause.

If you have bought the cap, you can keep it as spare or you can fit it as you decide and depending if you think you need to change it. But definitely one thing at a time. By one thing at a time you go forward knowing a bit better what is going on.

Sometimes, the work of getting a car in to good reliable service can be more than the purchase price. When I bought a 740 some years ago I made a decision that the real purchase price would be the work that was needed. That car served me well for some years before I made the mistake of parting from it.

You bought not expecting much expense so that is different. But buying a second hand car is like marrying a second hand spouse you will get someone else's problems. I did not say that. And I don't know anything I am once married still married.

A perhaps large part of your expense after purchase was servicing by a garage possibly by a dealer? Garages charge and tey don't usually give free first services. That's the economics of it.

As a bank manager said to my late uncle, when he borrowed to buy a car. "Sir, if you buy a car you will always be putting your hands in your pockets."

Good luck. And don't spend any more until you have changed that hose !!!


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[Laird Scooby]

If you're still waiting on the replacement hose, a quick fix to get you out of trouble is cut out the split section, insert a 15mm "Yorkshire" fitting to join the resultant two sections and use Jubilee clips to tighten the hose.

https://www.toolstation.com/shop/Plu...Coupler/p16860



I suspect the hose was weak to start with, pressure testing would have weakened it further and driving it after whatever the K-Seal fixed would have resulted in extra pressure in the system. Enough to stress the hose into bursting.

Something to be careful of is whether you should have a 1.1bar expansion tank cap or a 1.5/1.6bar cap. Doesn't sound much but the lower one is 16psi, the higher one is about 23psi give or take. However, checking on Pg23 of this pdf shows yours should be the 1.5bar (150kPa) version so that shouldn't be a problem :

http://www.myvolvolibrary.info/Tech_...DataPocket.pdf

Sounds like the thermostat is doing what it should so nothing to panic about on that score at least.

[Stephen Edwin]

Originally Posted by Laird Scooby

If you're still waiting on the replacement hose, a quick fix to get you out of trouble is cut out the split section, insert a 15mm "Yorkshire" fitting to join the resultant two sections and use Jubilee clips to tighten the hose.

https://www.toolstation.com/shop/Plu...Coupler/p16860



I suspect the hose was weak to start with, pressure testing would have weakened it further and driving it after whatever the K-Seal fixed would have resulted in extra pressure in the system. Enough to stress the hose into bursting.

Something to be careful of is whether you should have a 1.1bar expansion tank cap or a 1.5/1.6bar cap. Doesn't sound much but the lower one is 16psi, the higher one is about 23psi give or take. However, checking on Pg23 of this pdf shows yours should be the 1.5bar (150kPa) version so that shouldn't be a problem :

http://www.myvolvolibrary.info/Tech_...DataPocket.pdf

Sounds like the thermostat is doing what it should so nothing to panic about on that score at least.

Nice picture !!!

And a sensible pragmatic temporary fix if the hose is strong enough to be fixed. Cushti.

*****

Different engine for me. But thermostats are as cheap as inexpensive fried potatoes. I change the thermostat every four years when changing the cambelt .... that coincides in my work schedule with every second coolant change. Every four years I get the opportunity to play with the biggest selection of the tools used on my Volvo.


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[Laird Scooby]

Originally Posted by Stephen Edwin

I am not sure what you are saying about the hose and pressure testing, because you say it leaks. Anyway. Yes change it.

Personally, I would not change the pressure cap, or not yet. When you have changed the hose you will find out if that is THE problem. Or if there is a remaining problem. Then make ongoing decisions. One change at a time reduces the chace of confuddling the situation as to cause.

If you have bought the cap, you can keep it as spare or you can fit it as you decide and depending if you think you need to change it. But definitely one thing at a time. By one thing at a time you go forward knowing a bit better what is going on.

I totally agree with the "one thing at a time" Stephen but you've missed a vital point here - the only thing NOT checked during pressure testing is the cap itself. Therefore if there are no leaks in the rest of the system, the culprit must, by elimination, be the one item not tested. The hose was simply a coincidental casualty of age and pressure. There may have been airlocks within the system causing the frequent topping up but the redblocks don't usually suffer this, not so sure on the whiteblocks - i'm assuming here that it's a B230 and therefore a redblock.

*** EDIT ***

Now i've posted, the header has come up "960 Losing Coolant" so obviously a whiteblock. Worth double-checking the coolant cap pressure rating in that case, i can't find what it should be.

[Laird Scooby]

Originally Posted by Stephen Edwin

Nice picture !!!

And a sensible pragmatic temporary fix if the hose is strong enough to be fixed. Cushti.

Pic shamelessly stolen from Toolstation!

As i was recommending their product i don't think they can sue me for copyright though!

[Stephen Edwin]

Dave. We disagree. And the amount of money is so small it might not worry the chap who owns the car. Anyway let us not dispute.

My view remains. The pressure cap might not have been considered already. Or it might not. The hose is leaking. That is crucial. The cap might be at fault but only because it is so far possibly an unknown quantity.

I don't know the answer.

The hose is leaking.

One thing at a time.

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