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S40 / V40 '96-'04 General Forum for the Volvo S40 and V40 (Classic) Series from 1995-2004. |
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Guide: Wireless Lock Alarm components removalViews : 29365 Replies : 72Users Viewing This Thread : |
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Jun 27th, 2011, 18:56 | #1 |
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Guide: Wireless Lock Alarm components removal
First of all make sure you have your radio code handy, as when you follow this procedure, you will have to remove the radio.
Here is what Vadis has about the alarm system Removing the Lock Alarm Control Remove the fascia of the Air-Condition/ Climate Control Unit. You can instert a flat metal surface on either side (yellow circles) and it unclips. I used the blade of my penknife to do so. Be gentle and careful as you don't want to break it. When you are done, push inwards the 2 clips of the radio/stereo (red circles) and then pull out the stereo gently. Disconnect all the cables behind making note of what goes where. Undo the 2 screws holding the radio/stero unit fascia(I have already removed them in the photo below and that is why you can't see them ). I removed the Air-Condition/ Climate Control Unit. Too, but you don't have to do it to access the Lock Alarm Control unit. Undo the 3 screws holding the radio/stero unit fascia (Yellow circles). Remove Remove the rubber mat which is within the red oval highlighted area (I have already removed it in this photo) and unclip the 2 clips (green circles) Unclip the leather gaitor on the Gear Lever and remove the plastic gear lever suround (make sure you disconnect the Lighter wire in case you have a lighter) . Undo the 2 screws in the yellow circles. There are two more screws hidden from view inside the arm rest comprtment (red circle). Remove the rubber mat and carefully unclip the plastic cover (green circle) Undo the two screws Now move the whole arm rest backwards. 2-3 inches will be enough. Now you can move the “front part of the armarest/console panel/gearbox plastic hosuing thingy” backwards a bit and if you want you can remove it. This is to gain some space highlighted within the yellow circle to access the Lock Alarm Control Unit. The Lock Alarm Control Unit is underneath that metal frame and is being held by 3 clips. The 2 top ones on the photo and the 3rd which is hidden from view and is roughly where the lowest circle is. Carefully lift the clips and slide the Lock Alarm Control Unit away. Job done!!! In this car the Lock Alarm Control Unit is black. However in an earlier 2001 car it was grey in colour. Job Done Removing the RC receiver Accessing the RC receiver unit is a lot easier and in the process you will learn how to remove the Drivers Instrument panels. Kill two birds with one stone or if you are Chuck Norris kill two stones with one bird..... First of all, lower the steering wheel to the lowest point it can go. Undo the two screws (yellow circles) holding the instrument panel outer cover. Wiggle it out carefully. There are 3 screws holding the instrument panel in place. Remove all 3. Carefully pull the Instrument panel outwards and disconnect the two wire clips connected to it. Carefully wiggle it out. It will go through the steering wheel gap, but be careful not to brrake the ododmeter reset thingy Now you can see the RC receiver within the green circle. Undo the two screws (highlighted within the yellow circles) and remove the Unit. Job done Removing the Immobiliser Control Unit Undo the 4 screws (Yellow circles) holding the drivers footwell cover. Carefully move it backwards and disconnect the 2 wires connecting to the footwell light. Remove the cover. Now you can see the CEM (the grey coloured box) and the Immobiliser Control unit (blue color box) highlighted in the yellow oval circle. You need to remove the ECU to gain access to the Immobiliser control box. Remove the two screws (green circles) and unplug all 4 of the connectors to the CEM. Now you can see the Immobiliser control box It is secured by a metal frame which in turn is screwed on the car frame by 2 screws (yellow circles). Remove both of them and the Immobiliser is out. Job done. Conclusion My understanding of the alarm receiver unit is as follows. The RC receiver receives the signal from the key and sends it to the Lock Alram Control Unit. When last year I sold a fob, the Lock Alram Control Unit and the RC receiver, the person fitting it on his car told me that he did not replace the RC receiver and that the whole system was working fine. So if someone wants to replace a fob and a matching Lock Alram Control Unit, they don't need the RC receiver unit, nor do they need the Immobiliser Unit. With regards to the Immobiliser Unit, there is a microchip embedded in the key. The signal from it is picked up by a wire sensor inside the ignition and that talks to the Immobiliser Unit. Exploded view of a Volvo S/V40 key with integrated fob So lets say that someone who has got hold of a key with an integrated fob and the Lock Alram Control unit. They will also need the Immobiliser unit as well as the chip is in the key plastics. I tried to open the bloody key but it is stuck very well together and the only way to get it open is to more or less break parts of it, rendering it useless. Inside you will see the Immobiliser Chip on the top right corner(yellow circle). The system was working fine and I was going to sell it to Volvoline (a Volvoforum member), but I didn't realise that by removing the battery for a prolonged time would reset the fob settings. When I put everything back together, I realised that my fob was not talking to the car anymore and therefore decided to open it up and check it's internal works. The hardest of everything I have done here was opening that bllody key. Nice work Volvo. I hope everything I said or did here is correct. Please feel free to correct me if I am wrong
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Current car: 2002 S40 1.9D, 1992 240SE Nullius in Verba
Last edited by gatos; Jun 27th, 2011 at 21:17. |
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Jun 27th, 2011, 20:59 | #2 |
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.......excellent write up......the only thing is the "ECU" is the "CEM"......the ECU or as Volvo call it ECM is behind the centre console....
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Mercedes C320CDI Sport Estate 3 litre V6 7 Gear Auto Remap 290bhp 628Nm torque @ 1600revs 45.1mpg |
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Jun 27th, 2011, 21:09 | #3 | |
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Quote:
Edit done now. Thanks for pointing it out
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Current car: 2002 S40 1.9D, 1992 240SE Nullius in Verba
Last edited by gatos; Jun 27th, 2011 at 21:18. |
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Jun 27th, 2011, 21:30 | #4 |
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You are a godsend gatos. I now realize exactly whats going on with my car.
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Jun 27th, 2011, 21:53 | #5 |
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LOL Gatos's is pretty amazing...
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Vectra VXR estate convert Experience = V40 1998 2.0 CD lots of mods Busy pestering the poor sods here now Last edited by Dog_Book; Jun 27th, 2011 at 22:37. |
Jun 27th, 2011, 22:29 | #6 |
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No I am not. The are other members here who do a lot more than I do. Ask me something about the engine aprts etc and I am clueless. I just do internal easy things....
And by the way it is Gatos, not Gatsos......... Gatos means Cat in Greek, hence my name.... lol
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Current car: 2002 S40 1.9D, 1992 240SE Nullius in Verba
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Jun 27th, 2011, 22:51 | #8 |
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lol. Too many guides for one day. I need to do a guide for the rear door windows and lock mechanism and then see how it goes. I am thinking of taking the engine apart to see how it works, as it seems no one is interested in a 2l engine.
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Current car: 2002 S40 1.9D, 1992 240SE Nullius in Verba
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Jun 28th, 2011, 10:26 | #9 | |
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Quote:
.....My name Keith in Celtic means "wood"........which i believe some on here think i am a bit "wooden"......
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Jun 28th, 2011, 11:47 | #10 | |
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Nice work gatos.
About that key.. '' Quote:
It seemed that alarm doesn't work at first, so I locked doors with that key itself. The next morning everything worked fine. So I think it reprogramed itself somehow....
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Useful threads and information Guide: How to change/adjust timing belt Guide: Fitting LED's This is how S40 1.9 TD engine components looks like Information regarding EGR, problems and solutions A.K.A. Hesitation, sluggishness etc. |
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