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700/900 Series General Forum for the Volvo 740, 760, 780, 940, 960 & S/V90 cars |
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High Engine RPM while drivingViews : 1996 Replies : 15Users Viewing This Thread : |
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Jul 29th, 2022, 23:25 | #11 | |
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Many thanks for your replay and explanation about the problems with the connections. I have uploaded some photos and video about fixing connectors and wiring: > https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GTRMJ937vDE > https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mNZq6PuOi5c I think I understand about changing a connector on a existing wire (according to the first video). But what if the wire is damaged, do you simply cut the damaged part of the wire and solder an extension (as per the second video), or is better to install a whole wire (and where do you find/order a complete wire? Also, may I ask if you can recommend some links about where can I order sensors and connectors (please also see my reply to RollingThunder). Kind regards |
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Jul 30th, 2022, 04:36 | #12 |
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The ECT sensor is an EV1 connector, same as the injectors.
https://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_f...=ev1+connector You could go to a junkyard and cut them and a section of wiring off another B230F/FT/ET. I would crimp them but you can solder the wires too. (and only the damaged bit) You probably won't find replacement connectors for the dash temp sensor with the D shaped connector (like in those two pictures), but red/blue female bullet connectors might fit. https://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_f...ctors&_sacat=0 Or junkyard again.
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Jul 30th, 2022, 08:53 | #13 |
Grumpy Old Git
Last Online: Apr 19th, 2024 09:16
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I ordered my temperature sensors from FRF Volvo as we get a good discount with them.
1362645 £33.30 + VAT 1346030 £45.90 + VAT Yes, thats the discounted price So still not cheap, but they'll be top quality and will last another 20 years hopefully.
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S40 2.4i '07 Japanese import '96 850R - https://www.volvoforums.org.uk/showthread.php?t=312484 Ex Danish Embassy '96 940 GLE LPT - https://www.volvoforums.org.uk/showthread.php?t=326071 |
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Aug 1st, 2022, 12:28 | #14 | |
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Aug 2nd, 2022, 21:14 | #15 | |
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Otherwise you need a scope or pulse reader to check the signal. It is basically a wire connecting the ABS to the fuel ECU. You could try using full throttle and see if that does it, or from a cold start in the winter, you will notice the rpm drop when you stop, this is determined from the speed signal by the fuel ECU, so if that works then its getting a speed signal. Other causes are air leaks, but are more constant than random appearing. |
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Aug 2nd, 2023, 21:34 | #16 |
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PRBLM.SOLVED:High Engine RPM while driving(w/o pressing gas)
Hello,
After almost a year I would like to let everybody in this thread (and others reading it) that the problem with the high engine RPM while driving (without pressing on the gas paddle) has been finally solved. The problem was with faulty Coolant Temperature Senor - CTS. The reason it took me so long to repair it, was not that the problem and repair were complex, on the contrary changing the sensor was easily done by the mechanic. I spend a lot of time waiting for the car parts: 1/it took me some time to order and receive the sensors (CTS1: engine to ECU Bosch and CTS2: engine to dashboard/cockpit display) - I have ordered them from skandix.de in Germany and then had to organize delivery home; 2/my mechanic is from a town that is about 200km from where I live - so setting appointment was prolonged; and 3/ I was walking more and driving less, and when I had to drive I used the smaller second car . Still I drove the Volvo now and then (at least once a week to keep the car in shape) with the familiar symptoms of high engine RPMs, with the problem usually occurring once or twice in the first 2-3 minutes after starting the engine (on a cold start) and lasting (high RPMs) between 10 and 20 seconds. This of course is very unpleasant and disturbing if you are in traffic jam, as you have to drive slowly and stop frequently - while at that time the engine can go up to 2000-2500 RPMs - so you either have to keep your foot on the clutch all the time or to keep the gear in idle. A new symptom that occurred 2 months prior to the car repair was that I had problem with starting the car after driving it a while (when starting it on warm engine - warm start). After two-three prolonged tries (cranking the engine) and pressing the gas paddle, the car would eventually start. Finally - all these problems were resolved after replacement of the CTS sensor and the car is now driving without any of the problems. I would like to thank everybody that contributed to this thread as you guys have helped to correctly identify the problem. The mechanic actually was skeptical that this would solve the problem - he was thinking that I need to buy a new idle control valve as the one that I installed was second hand (see my first post in the thread where I explain what else I tried to solve the problem). Again thank you and kind regards. I will be glad to answer any questions you might have. |
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900, 940, driving, high, rpm |
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