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140/164 Series General Forum for the Volvo 140 and 164 cars |
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Torque SettingsViews : 760 Replies : 9Users Viewing This Thread : |
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Feb 8th, 2021, 10:43 | #1 |
Junior Member
Last Online: Nov 29th, 2021 10:02
Join Date: Feb 2021
Location: Limassol
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Torque Settings
Good day all,
I’m new on here but looking forward to share experiences of the 4 (yes 4) 164 that I have acquired last month in a job lot. Daft? Probably.... Stripping down the mechanicals at the moment on my 1973. Official workshop manual to hand but even that is light on torque settings for anything other than major components such as shell bearings and head bolts. Does anyone have a nice definitive list of torque tightening values for ancillary items such as, in my current case, the four oil pump assembly bolts and the two pump mounting bolts to engine? I’ve had a good search and found nil, will resort to generic values for bolt size if necessary but would prefer some actuals? Thoughts? |
Feb 8th, 2021, 11:27 | #2 |
VOC Member
Last Online: Apr 18th, 2024 17:06
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: Chatham
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Probably the same as those for the B20 as the B30 is just a B20 + 2 pots.
That may not help if they don't show up for the B20 either. 😎 |
Feb 8th, 2021, 12:53 | #3 |
Junior Member
Last Online: Nov 29th, 2021 10:02
Join Date: Feb 2021
Location: Limassol
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Yes, I need to dig around B20’s too - as you say, a lot of commonality. I’ve recently swapped out one cam rocker from a B20 for one of mine where the hardened face was worn through. Straight swap.
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Feb 8th, 2021, 12:56 | #4 |
Junior Member
Last Online: Nov 29th, 2021 10:02
Join Date: Feb 2021
Location: Limassol
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What was in my sump? Not oil as we know it!!!
https://youtu.be/hHETh8xSO7E
Not sure if this link will work on here but this is what I found on my newly acquired 164. I opened the sump as top end noted dry and assumed oilways blocked. Was proven to be right thing to do! |
Feb 8th, 2021, 14:32 | #5 |
Junior Member
Last Online: Nov 29th, 2021 10:02
Join Date: Feb 2021
Location: Limassol
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Hi again, may have an answer found somewhere else for the B20 as suggested. I’m not vouching for these numbers and haven’t cross-checked against the green book where applicable but apparently comes from a workshop that rebuilds B20’s. I think the term is “use at own risk”!
One case in point - head bolts are multi-stage tightening items but below no mention of. All measurements are in ft/lbs. Head bolts/stud nuts: 70-75, lightly oiled Main cap bolt/nuts: 90, lightly oiled Rod nuts(stock): 45, lightly oiled, stake each nut in 2 places Cam thrust plate: 10, use Loctite Cam nut: 75, use Loctite & stake nut in 2-3 places Flywheel bolts: 45, use Loctite Clutch bolts: 25, Grade 8 w/Grade 8 split lock washers Rocker shaft bolt: 25 Crankshaft bolt: 60, use Loctite Water pump bolts: 20-25 w/wave washers Water pump pulley/fan bolts: 20-25 w/split lock washers Front crankshaft seal housing bolts: 8-10 w/wave washers Rear crankshaft seal housing bolts: 8-10, w/wave washers, use Loctite Oil pan: 20-25 Oil pump: 20-25, use Loctite w/wave or lock washers Breather box: 8-10 w/wave washer Distributor base, fuel pump/block off plate: 20-25, w/wave washers, use Loctite Motor mount bolts: 20-25 w/split lock washers Valve cover: 8-10 w/wave washers Intake/exhaust manifold nuts/bolts to head: 20-25 w/Belleville or wave washers Aside from above apparently Volvo stated to torque to accepted standard settings based upon bolt size - or so I have understood. Any other info welcome. |
Feb 16th, 2021, 21:26 | #6 | |
Senior Member
Last Online: Dec 19th, 2023 00:34
Join Date: Mar 2014
Location: Seaside town Lincs
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Quote:
Still being in Limassol at least you have lovely Cyprus weather so they wont be all rusty like the ones here usually are I can feel the envy coming over me Good luck with them Tony
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Just because you own a welder it does not mean you can weld. Let's Go Brandon! |
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Feb 18th, 2021, 11:56 | #7 |
Junior Member
Last Online: Nov 29th, 2021 10:02
Join Date: Feb 2021
Location: Limassol
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Thanks Andrew,
As usual in any resto - one step forward and 3/4 back. Opened the timing cover with a view to renewing front crank seal and found timing out by one tooth - it’s simple enough to line up correctly when fitting the cam drive gear so no idea why whoever did it couldn’t line the damned marks up correctly back then! A hidden benefit to this snafu - when I pulled the cam gear to move it round by one, I found that the cam thrust/holding plate behind had sheared entirely across the bolt holes which explained the excessive end float. Would not have seen if someone had not initially messed the valve timing up by one tooth....... A question, if anyone can help? I’m looking for a windscreen scuttle panel or even part panel. These are NLA from the usual suppliers. Ideas? Anybody out there breaking a 164? Not sure if a 140/240 panel is same? |
Feb 18th, 2021, 13:09 | #8 | |
Chief Bodger
Last Online: Yesterday 17:46
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Aberdeen
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One day I will get rid of all of the rust. |
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Feb 19th, 2021, 09:38 | #9 |
Trader Volvo in my veins
Last Online: Yesterday 22:24
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Anglesey
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The panel is the same as 140's and 240's upto about 1980
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Feb 19th, 2021, 11:31 | #10 |
How Old?
Last Online: May 31st, 2021 12:28
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: redhill
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Yes - someone on here grafted a 240 screen surround panel onto his 164 a few years back. Obviously a big job needing good welding skills. Possibly check age of 240 as I believe they changed when they finally realised metal screen-fitting clips induced rust, so went bonded-in.
They say patch-repairing is the only option but can't comment. P |
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