V70 Automatic no drive when warm

[excopper]

so I have done it again, saw a car that I liked, its in my price range as it is faulty, buy it thinking I might be lucky.......and I'm not.

Its a 2006 V70 2.5D5 Auto.

when cold you can get drive and reverse and select gears manually. it selects 6th do I assume the torque convertor is working ok as it will lock up and not slip. until its warm, then its a completely different story.

once warm it begins to lose drive, altogether, then flashes up transmission performance fault. and wont get drive or reverse. once cooled down its good for another 20 miles or so. if I plug in my generic (crap) code reader it gives code p0730 which is probably generic too.

any help appreciated its a pretty rare beast so I would like to save it if I can

totally unrelated but the heaters blow cold on one side of the car too

if anyone is in the north east and can plug it in I would be happy to offer beer tokens and a covid safe environment

[Bashy]

It sounds like its gotten to a serious stage, it may benefit from a few transmission drain and fills and a may need a software update (only at Volvo)

You could drive it slower, i mean, don't drive it hard, drive like you've got Miss Daisy in the back holding a full cup o' tea, i.e. keep it under sixty and only gentle accelerations, this will keep the oil temp lower for longer.

It does sound like its a possible valve body job though....

[IainG]

Hi
Probably a daft question and you have, but have you checked the transmission fluid level?
At the same time check the colour of the fluid, could range from new to really burnt and dark?
Iain

[excopper]

Thank you for your replies, even if I drive it slower it loses drive, then flashes up with the fault. It then doesn’t select any gear. I hope to drain the fluid this weekend (on my back in the snow) to see if that helps. I did wonder if it were a solenoid issue or valve issue. I’ve looked at loads of how to on YouTube but unfortunately they all seem to be for the older box. Mine has no dipstick.

[oragex]

It may be serious wear - such as worn clutches - or just a worn fluid, flushing will tell. For the climate, look closely if the thermistor appears broken, or open - battery disconnected - and measure the resistance on it https://youtu.be/Zis5WN_if60

[excopper]

So when the car is slightly mid behaving, before it loses all drive. If I plug my hand held in and reset the codes I feel drive engage more firmly. I’m wondering if it’s a valve or solenoid and how easy they are to diagnose?

[Laird Scooby]

Originally Posted by excopper

So when the car is slightly mid behaving, before it loses all drive. If I plug my hand held in and reset the codes I feel drive engage more firmly. I’m wondering if it’s a valve or solenoid and how easy they are to diagnose?

First thing to do is an ATF part-change. Make sure you get the correct fluid to refill it with. Drive as far as you can to get the fluid hot so it drains easier and put a tube/drain pan under the drain plug and remove the drain plug.

Once drained, clean the drain plug and refit. If there's a lot of swarf on the drain plug that could be a problem. Top up to the cold level on the dipstick (lower set of marks on one side, high set the other - if you only have one set of marks top up to the lower one or just over) and take for a test drive, recheck and top-up the level on your return.

Use it for a couple of weeks and repeat. Do this as many times as it takes (usually 3-4 part-changes) until the fluid remains clean in between.

Once drained, transfer the old fluid to an empty, clear plastic container with a lid. Let it settle then inspect for any signs of water/coolant at the bottom. If you have that, chances are it needs a new rad as well.

I think (but double-check your car to be sure) it will need JWS3309 or compatible ATF - this is a good ATF meeting that spec :

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Carlube-A...L/233257297843

Whatever you do, DO NOT use the flushing/Gibbon method!

You will likely destroy the box doing this!

Doing the part-changes 2 weeks apart will introduce the new, thicker fluid gently and give the "seal-swell" time to work on the seals, it will also help clean the internals of the box.

You can dribble some of the old fluid onto some clean, white kitchen roll to observe the colour, i suspect it will actually be a dark brown colour indicating it has overheated and gone thin. It sounds as if you may have been lucky and caught this in time but that's a conclusion we can't jump to just yet.

Good luck and keep us posted!

PS - use the OBD code reader to erase the code after each part-change, if my theory is correct and the fluid is old and thin there should come a time when you no longer get the code and don't get stuck.

[Bashy]

Just to add, i dont think hs box will have the dipstick, it will be the bottom plug that has the levels checker thingy, sorry, forgot what its called, mine has it lol

[XC90Mk1]

Originally Posted by Laird Scooby

First thing to do is an ATF part-change. Make sure you get the correct fluid to refill it with. Drive as far as you can to get the fluid hot so it drains easier and put a tube/drain pan under the drain plug and remove the drain plug.

Once drained, clean the drain plug and refit. If there's a lot of swarf on the drain plug that could be a problem. Top up to the cold level on the dipstick (lower set of marks on one side, high set the other - if you only have one set of marks top up to the lower one or just over) and take for a test drive, recheck and top-up the level on your return.

Use it for a couple of weeks and repeat. Do this as many times as it takes (usually 3-4 part-changes) until the fluid remains clean in between.

Once drained, transfer the old fluid to an empty, clear plastic container with a lid. Let it settle then inspect for any signs of water/coolant at the bottom. If you have that, chances are it needs a new rad as well.

I think (but double-check your car to be sure) it will need JWS3309 or compatible ATF - this is a good ATF meeting that spec :

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Carlube-A...L/233257297843

Whatever you do, DO NOT use the flushing/Gibbon method!

You will likely destroy the box doing this!

Doing the part-changes 2 weeks apart will introduce the new, thicker fluid gently and give the "seal-swell" time to work on the seals, it will also help clean the internals of the box.

You can dribble some of the old fluid onto some clean, white kitchen roll to observe the colour, i suspect it will actually be a dark brown colour indicating it has overheated and gone thin. It sounds as if you may have been lucky and caught this in time but that's a conclusion we can't jump to just yet.

Good luck and keep us posted!

PS - use the OBD code reader to erase the code after each part-change, if my theory is correct and the fluid is old and thin there should come a time when you no longer get the code and don't get stuck.

Agree with this.

[Millie20]

Originally Posted by Bashy

Just to add, i dont think hs box will have the dipstick, it will be the bottom plug that has the levels checker thingy, sorry, forgot what its called, mine has it lol

I agree. Likely the TF80SC, in which case it'll have the level plug (torx 55) and drain plug (17mm hex).

SiRobb / Cheshire5 did a good video on TF80SC drain and fills. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YaQ5VsCfMDo

He used a 10L jug of jws3309 from here - https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/10L-MANNO...72.m2749.l2649

Best to double check you've got the tf80sc gearbox. I am in the process of doing drain and fills on my 06 d5 myself, so had this info to hand.

Good luck.