240 General: New (to me) 1980 Volvo 244

[Othen]

Whilst removing the Panhard rod from the RB to take to Luke's place tomorrow I discovered the source of the intermittent squeak: the mouse was the bottom mounting bolt for the right side shock absorber.

I had noticed the mouse again as I reversed the RB onto some ramps - and so had a good poke around with a pry bar, and gave all the rubber bits a spray with some silicone grease. Working my way backwards I narrowed the squeak down the the bottom shock absorber bolt, so I slackened it off to just before the end of its threads, put a big wodge of machine grease under each end and did it up again.

Result: the mouse is banished :-)

It was as simple as that. As I have it off the car I might as well change the chassis end bush on the Parhard rod tomorrow.

Alan

[Laird Scooby]

I hope your mouse remains excommunicated Alan, it may return though.

If it does, i would suggest removing the bolt completely, degrasing the inside of thetube in the center of the damper bush then painting it. Once dry, reassemble with fresh grease on the bolt - my theory behind this is rust forms on the inside of the tube, this scrapes against the bolt as the damper moves and creates the mouse. By removing the rust and painting it to prevent more rust, it should prevent it recurring.

That said, you may need new dampers before that time comes.

[Othen]

Originally Posted by Laird Scooby

I hope your mouse remains excommunicated Alan, it may return though.

If it does, i would suggest removing the bolt completely, degrasing the inside of thetube in the center of the damper bush then painting it. Once dry, reassemble with fresh grease on the bolt - my theory behind this is rust forms on the inside of the tube, this scrapes against the bolt as the damper moves and creates the mouse. By removing the rust and painting it to prevent more rust, it should prevent it recurring.

That said, you may need new dampers before that time comes.

I'd say the dampers are almost new Dave, they are Koni and look very shiny. It looks like the PO just didn't put much grease on when he fitted them.

:-)

[Laird Scooby]

Originally Posted by Othen

I'd say the dampers are almost new Dave, they are Koni and look very shiny. It looks like the PO just didn't put much grease on when he fitted them.

:-)

Hopefully should be ok then Alan now you've greased them. Probably fitted dry but you've had it a couple of years now so taken time to develop the Mickey.

[360beast]

I just spoke to Alan about this, I know on the 7/900s they didn't grease the bolts from the factory. Which means after 20-30+ years I have found the N/S bolt is quite often seized inside the sleeve on the bottom of the damper.

[Othen]

Regular readers will remember me changing the axle end bush on the RB's Panhard rod the hard way last week: a morning of skinned knuckles, swearing and frustration. There is a much easier way: simple, just take it to your mate Luke who has a proper hydraulic press.

Old bush out (took a minute or so, no recip saws, fire or whatever):



New bush in (took about 2 minutes, no skinned knuckles, swearing or frustration):



Many thanks Luke :-)

[360beast]

You're very welcome Alan

Like I said earlier, any more bushes that need doing just bring them over and I'll happily do it for you.

It was nice to see you, Elizabeth and Bob again and all looking well

[Othen]

Originally Posted by 360beast

You're very welcome Alan

Like I said earlier, any more bushes that need doing just bring them over and I'll happily do it for you.

It was nice to see you, Elizabeth and Bob again and all looking well

Thank you Luke,
The rod is back in the RB and all is well :-)

[Othen]

I'd noticed a ticking noise from the RB, particularly when accelerating with the engine cold, in the last week or two - and also a slightly lumpy tick-over. I had a good look over the engine to see if I could spot an obvious culprit when I did my weekly fluids check this afternoon, and found that one of the exhaust manifold nuts to the head (number 7 from the front) had unwound itself a full three turns on the stud.

I checked all the studs and found that none were much more than hand tight (although no others had unwound themselves as far as number 7). 5 minutes with a deep 1/2" socket, and a combination spanner for a couple of inaccessible ones had everything tighten up properly - I checked the inlet side as well and found them all fine (so I'm assuming the effect was due to thermal expansion and contraction on the exhaust side).

A short test drive to Morrisons and back proved the ticking noise to be banished, and the tick-over is much improved.

This just goes to show the value of maintaining a car oneself - looking, listening and checking things regularly. Those exhaust nuts would have last been done up when I changed the cylinder head well over a year ago. The studs were new at that time, and all have remained properly seated in the head. The nuts were new as well, and are the correct flanged type. I don't think there are any washers specified under the exhaust manifold nuts (but if anyone knows better perhaps they would let me know).

I need to make a note to myself to follow the 6 monthly check list in the BofH more closely and 'Check all exhaust mountings for tightness'.

[Laird Scooby]

The trick is to tighten the various nuts, bolts and clamps on the exhaust system when they're hot Alan, flange nuts need no separate washer as it's "built in" to the nut.

Glad you got it sorted anyway!