240 General: New (to me) 1980 Volvo 244

[Moomoo]

I only use my o/d button for overtaking, instead of the kick down.

Well I will, if I ever do overtake anything!🤨

( Likelihood, slim , it’s hilariously slow.).😁

[Othen]

Originally Posted by Moomoo

I only use my o/d button for overtaking, instead of the kick down.

Well I will, if I ever do overtake anything!🤨

( Likelihood, slim , it’s hilariously slow.).😁

... but the kick down would work just the same Andrew, so I don't think this is any loss at all. It also saves me having to wire up an O/D switch the RB doesn't have.

:-)

[Moomoo]

Originally Posted by Othen

... but the kick down would work just the same Andrew, so I don't think this is any loss at all. It also saves me having to wire up an O/D switch the RB doesn't have.

:-)

Oh yes , I’m fully up to speed with your plans. 👍

[loki_the_glt]

Originally Posted by Othen

... and fourth gear!

Plus - I need an excuse to use this cool tool that I've just bought:



:-)

In reality it's missing the following 2 items:
1. A clutch asembly;
2. A manual gearbox;

Everything else is irrelevant.

[Othen]

Originally Posted by loki_the_glt

In reality it's missing the following 2 items:
1. A clutch asembly;
2. A manual gearbox;

Everything else is irrelevant.

We will have to agree to disagree about that one Loki; I quite like autos and if I made it a manual it would be the same as my three other motor cars. I do like the idea of a bit more torque from a B230a motor and it being less frenzied at motorway speeds with a 4 speeder gearbox.

Another lovely day in paradise.

Alan

[Laird Scooby]

Originally Posted by Othen

I had suspected that Mr Volvo lost the additional length of the AW70 gearbox by fitting a shorter front section of the prop shaft (that way the centre bearing would stay in the same place - requiring fewer production engineering fixes). Today I've heard from the B230/AW70's PO that the front section is (about) 46cm, I've just been out to measure the same on the RB and can see it is (about) 53cm - so about 70mm difference - Eurika!

The PO has agreed that we can swap prop shafts (or maybe just the front sections) when I pull the RB's motor and gearbox out of the car. So, that is the jigsaw almost complete:



:-)

Swap the prop complete Alan, the front parts will have been balanced to their respective back parts and you may both end up with unbalanced propshafts as a result.

Also if you have the "boomerang" shaped gearbox crossmember to mount the box, you may be able to turn it round to gain the 70mm difference without the need to drill and Rivnut RBs belly.

[Othen]

Originally Posted by Othen

- I've inspected the rear extension, and I'm absolutely confident it will be a simple and direct swap to get a speedometer drive. I just need to identify the shaft seal and procure one (probably not from a motor factor, nitrile seals are much cheaper from machine parts suppliers and cost pence).

- I inspected the RB's shifter when I was fitting that new nylon bush and I'm confident it will be an easy fix; I don't think I'll have to cut the one I have.

- I'm confident the gearbox cross member will fit 70mm (or thereabouts) further to the rear with just two M10 steel rivnuts.

Another lovely day in paradise :-)

The seal is Volvo part #3549226 - it also fits lots of Vauxhalls and Opels, it seems to be an ordinary 42x55x10 R23 nitrile seal, so I've bought one for about £4 (delivered).

It looks like the front holes on the crossmember will fit the rear bolt holes on the RB (70mm apart), so I may just weld two tabs onto the front and use the original holes in the chassis.

:-)

[Laird Scooby]

Originally Posted by Othen

The seal is Volvo part #3549226 - it also fits lots of Vauxhalls and Opels, it seems to be an ordinary 42x55x10 R23 nitrile seal, so I've bought one for about £4 (delivered).

It looks like the front holes on the crossmember will fit the rear bolt holes on the RB (70mm apart), so I may just weld two tabs onto the front and use the original holes in the chassis.

:-)

What about the bush Alan? No point renewing the seal if the bush is worn as the new seal won't last. For an extra few quid, you can do the whole job properly.

[Othen]

Originally Posted by Laird Scooby

What about the bush Alan? No point renewing the seal if the bush is worn as the new seal won't last. For an extra few quid, you can do the whole job properly.

One has to draw the line somewhere Dave, otherwise everything will get renewed and it will cost £10,000. There is no evidence to suggest the bushing is worn, I’m only changing the seal because it is coming off the shaft when I swap the extension, it isn’t leaking now.

A £4 seal, half a sheet of gasket paper, a free solenoid modification plus a 20p nitrile ring will do for me - oh, and a gallon of ATF, let’s say £25 to sort the gearbox, that is in line with the RB’s ethos :-)

I’m hoping the engine will be the same, it was £26 for a full top end gasket set and I already have the bottom end set. A new cam belt was a tenner. With a gallon of oil it should only cost £50 or so.

Well, that’s the plan anyway :-)

[Laird Scooby]

Originally Posted by Othen

One has to draw the line somewhere Dave, otherwise everything will get renewed and it will cost £10,000. There is no evidence to suggest the bushing is worn, I’m only changing the seal because it is coming off the shaft when I swap the extension, it isn’t leaking now.

A £4 seal, half a sheet of gasket paper, a free solenoid modification plus a 20p nitrile ring will do for me - oh, and a gallon of ATF, let’s say £25 to sort the gearbox, that is in line with the RB’s ethos :-)

I’m hoping the engine will be the same, it was £26 for a full top end gasket set and I already have the bottom end set. A new cam belt was a tenner. With a gallon of oil it should only cost £50 or so.

Well, that’s the plan anyway :-)

I had a feeling you'd offer that argument Alan, the bushes are known to wear badly on the AW70 and for the small cost when you're almost there in terms of doing it (drift it out after removing the seal then drift the new one in after correctly aligning it) it will save you its cost in lost ATF, not to mention the grief of having to do it a few thousands miles down the road if you don't do it now.



As you can see, this bush had also been spun by picking up on the shaft due to wear. This reduced the oil supply to it causing more premature wear.



New bush and seal fitted, ready for the back of the gasket paper to be sprayed with carpet glue prior ro setting the extension housing on it. Once the glue had dried, a ball pein hammer tapped out the bolt holes and a Stanley knife cut the larger holes.



Seriously, for the cost of the bush now (with the seal, total ~ a tenner ish) it saves in the long run!