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C30 / S40 & V50 '04-'12 / C70 '06-'13 General Forum for the P1-platform C30 / S40 / V50 / C70 models |
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Does this sound like alternator problems to you?Views : 1457 Replies : 17Users Viewing This Thread : |
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Jul 6th, 2022, 11:35 | #1 |
Junior Member
Last Online: Jul 16th, 2023 14:20
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Location: Limoges
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Does this sound like alternator problems to you?
Hello all,
I had to call the brakedown servrice yesterday. I'd got some 40 mile from home when; - a 'Power Steering Service Required' displayed I thought 'fair enough' and decided to head back home... - then I smelt burning, that smell went (something roadside I'd passed, I thought) - then the power steering went, steering heavy as but working - shortly thereafter, a message saying 'Anti Skid Brakes Disabled' displayed - then ABS disabled - then Air Bags Disabled - then AC stopped, no dash lights, no speedo, no tacho - then the car ground to a halt. Dead as, nothing. All the above in the space of maybe 10 minutes. From my reading, that sounds like a dead alternator. The car control unit was gradually shutting things down to try and preserve vital battery life - dunno? When I got home, I put the battery on charge. It would not charge in situ so I've disconnected it and it seems to be quite happily charging now. Before charging, it measured around 6.4 volts. This is probably irrelevant but... A few days prior, I'd changed a headlight bulb. I put a generic supermarket own brand H7 until I decided what bulb to get for proper. In the process of testing that, I'd accidently left the darned light switch to 'side lights' overnight - battery was weak but car started fine and I drove it maybe 30 mile to recharge the battery, no problems. I'm thinking either the alternator is shot (and maybe I'll need a new battery too)... or a major catastrophic failure Certainly felt that way waiting for the tow truck with nothing working! Last edited by C30inFrance; Jul 6th, 2022 at 13:00. |
Jul 6th, 2022, 13:01 | #2 |
Extrahumanestrial
Last Online: Feb 13th, 2023 19:02
Join Date: Jun 2022
Location: Budapest
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Sounds like an aux drive belt that isn't there anymore, especially if the AC has done a bunk on you assuming you mean aircon?
Airbags, hmmm, can't see why unless you have a relay burnt out in the fuse box, sniff test, anything smell burnt? fuses all ok? check the ones inside the car as well, Hope you get to the bottom of it. Last edited by SnineT; Jul 6th, 2022 at 13:05. |
Jul 6th, 2022, 13:34 | #3 |
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Last Online: Jul 16th, 2023 14:20
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Yes, aircon. Maybe I made the 'air bags' bit up! I wouldn't swear to it, it was all disappearing so quickly (and I was driving) that I'd no chance to note it all the messages - 4 in total I think (excluding the power steering once).
Something else I've just remembered, and again it is perhaps not relevant, I was using the spare key for the first time in years. I couldn't find the usual key when I went out so grabbed the spare. I'll have a look at fuses later... |
Jul 6th, 2022, 13:37 | #4 |
Extrahumanestrial
Last Online: Feb 13th, 2023 19:02
Join Date: Jun 2022
Location: Budapest
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The key might be a good start point so put a new battery in it and look up and do the reprogramming sequence, it's something simple iirc like unlock ign on press button.
Job 1 is make sure you still have an aux belt. |
Jul 6th, 2022, 17:06 | #5 |
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These cars do throw up a lot of messages if there's a problem with the battery or charging circuit.
They also have a tendency for the belt tensioners to fail and the associated issues that can cause, sometimes going as far as a broken aux belt wrapping itself around the timing belt and wrecking the engine. The power steering has an electric pump, so don't automatically assume belt failure due to loss of power steering. The power steering pump should work down to a battery voltage of 9.5v (which is when it logs a fault code and the 'service required' message appears). Once you've got the battery back in and checked the belts, measure the battery voltage with the engine off and then with the engine running (if it starts!), You should see around 12.5v with it off and 14v with it running. If you don't see a change in voltage with the engine running, then check the voltage at the alternator output terminal. If it's different to the measured battery voltage, then you may have a wiring issue. Otherwise an alternator fault is more likely. Depending on the engine fitted, there are several different types of alternator, and they come in 120A and 150A varieties. It's important to replace like for like, as the charging is controlled digitally, and you will need a software update if you fit a 150A to a car that originally had a 120A. There shouldn't be any issue with keys. There is no re-learn sequence for P1 models, everything locking/immobiliser related has to be reprogrammed at the dealer. Last edited by pinballdave; Jul 6th, 2022 at 17:14. |
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Jul 6th, 2022, 20:02 | #6 |
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"belts" plural. I can see one; the long belt (serpentine?) that weaves its way around all manner of pumps etc Where's the other? The "aux" belt? Is there a diagram?
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Jul 6th, 2022, 20:21 | #7 |
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My first move would be to take the belt(s) off and turn each if the pulleys by hand. See if any have seized or have too much play or resistance. If they all feel OK, belts back on and start it up and measure the voltages.
The belt set up differs depending on the engine. Which one have you got? |
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Jul 6th, 2022, 21:25 | #9 |
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Sounds like alternator to me. All the symptoms fit, as it detects lack of power it shuts things down. The burning smell was probably the alternator itself, they tend to get very hot when they fail.
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Jul 7th, 2022, 06:07 | #10 |
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Last Online: Apr 1st, 2024 17:55
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Agree with the above.
When mine failed i had a burning smell and it was too hot to touch. The pas pump uses a lot of power so probably first thing to shut down. Years ago i had a Ford Sierra which starting shutting down various things one by one until the battery was dead.
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