1800: Is this Oil Pressure ok?

[ChasesDragons]

Hello,
I took the car on to the motorway, Apr 60mph and about 3000 rpm.

Is this oil pressure about right for this engi e condition?

Thanks

[142 Guy]

That is not exactly a high resolution oil pressure gauge! Quantitatively, you fall into the more than 35 psi and less than 70 psi range which would either be an ageing engine at the low end or its just fine at the high end. That gauge is good for monitoring changes; but, not very good for measuring absolute values. If the needle has been in that same position for 5 years then I would not worry about it. If it has dropped from where it used to be then it would be something to think about.

If you want a better quantitative assessment, I would temporarily connect a larger diameter oil pressure gauge with higher resolution markings - 10 psi major divisions with 5 psi minor divisions. The factory service manual for the B20 specifies an oil pressure range of 35 - 85 psi at 2000 RPM. That is hot with fresh oil at factory spec (no cheating the measurement with 20W50) and a fresh oil filter. Doing a proper test may tell you that your dash gauge is the problem and that your actual oil pressure is just fine.

The service manual values are rather generous service limits. If under the specified test conditions you are just above 35 psi then its probably time to think about the possibility of a future engine rebuild. With a dry erase marker, put a little tick mark at your hot idle oil pressure and at the 3000 RPM oil pressure and then monitor the oil pressure over time. If the readings don't change then I would not spend too much time thinking about it. If the readings gradually drop then you need to spend more time thinking about it.

[mike gilbert]

Your reading is fine. The gauges of the earlier 1800S cars had 50psi at the midway point, and these cars should run at or just over 50psi when cruising with a hot engine. So the needle would be just over half way. For whatever reason Volvo moved the halfway point on the E and ES gauge to 70psi so it will read under half but it's reading roughly what it should (though as Guy says the gauges are not that accurate anyway). I have owned several E's and a couple of ES's, they all read roughly what yours is reading.

[ChasesDragons]

Happy days! Thanks for your replies, as 142 says, it has been like that, ever since I had it. I just succumbed to a spot of automotive hypochondria and just HAD to ask!

My alternator failed and I have just had it reconditioned and a few electrical gremlins resolved. It was the first aggressive drive the car had in a few years, now. Fresh oil,filters and fuel given.

The brakes are spongy and are next on the list. I was thinking of DOT 5.1, I might just stick in DOT4 and bleed it as per the manual.

Warmest Regards to all.

[Clan]

Originally Posted by ChasesDragons

Happy days! Thanks for your replies, as 142 says, it has been like that, ever since I had it. I just succumbed to a spot of automotive hypochondria and just HAD to ask!

My alternator failed and I have just had it reconditioned and a few electrical gremlins resolved. It was the first aggressive drive the car had in a few years, now. Fresh oil,filters and fuel given.

The brakes are spongy and are next on the list. I was thinking of DOT 5.1, I might just stick in DOT4 and bleed it as per the manual.

Warmest Regards to all.

what oil are you using , remember back in the 1970's 20W/50 was the grade to have which would probably have pushed the needle up to the middle of the scale

[ChasesDragons]

That's a good point. I am sure it was near 20w50, perhaps adjusted down for the colder climate.

[142 Guy]

Originally Posted by ChasesDragons

The brakes are spongy and are next on the list. I was thinking of DOT 5.1, I might just stick in DOT4 and bleed it as per the manual.

Warmest Regards to all.

5.1 versus 4 is an interesting choice. The primary difference is that the minimum allowable boiling point for 5.1 is higher than 4. However, there is no maximum so you can find some brands of 4 that have a higher boiling point than 5.1. The other difference is that 5.1 typically have a lower viscosity that 4 which is a consideration with ABS systems. Not a consideration with an 1800 E.

One other consideration. As the boiling point goes up the tendency of the braking fluid to absorb moisture from the air (and turn ugly brown) increases with the higher boiling point. You probably need to be more assiduous with your brake fluid flushes if you switch to DOT 5.1. DOT 3 will be the best of the non silicone brake fluids if you want to extend your maintenance intervals.

[ChasesDragons]

As always, we'll considered and we'll researched points to ponder. I will have a look in the local shops, if they have DOT3 I will read and compare wIth DOT 4.

Most of the above messages seem confident in sticking to what was originally recommended.