V70 Wheels/Tyres: Replacement Wheel Bolts

[Stone Free]

Hi.
Need to replace nearly all of the wheel bolts on my V70 D5 as they have rusted badly. The car is a 51 Plate (reg Jan 2002) D5 S Estate.

I have found the two following auctions on Ebay, but I'm unsure as to whether either are correct for the vehicle, so would appreciate some help.

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.d...=STRK:MEWAX:IT


http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.d...=STRK:MEWAX:IT

[Bill_56]

If I were you I'd get a quote for original Volvo bolts before buying on ebay. After all, they serve a rather important purpose.

I bought four of them from a dealer parts dept myself to replace the locking bolts, and I remember being pleasantly surprised how reasonable they were, though I can't remember the figure.

[Clan]

the first ones are correct but the second lot are not ..

new are just over £3 EACH

[Stone Free]

Thanks for the advice. I went to the main dealer & bought two new sets, worked out at £2.33 per bolt which I thought was very reasonable & it certainly improves the appearance of the V70 no end. Only one of the old rusty one's I cant shift, even with the help of WD40....so will see if the local garage can shift it.

[chiptivo]

What is the recommended torque for a wheel bolt??

[bogart]

I believe 140Nm or approx 100ft/lbs, somewhat less then tyrefitting gorillas do them!

[chiptivo]

Originally Posted by bogart

I believe 140Nm or approx 100ft/lbs, somewhat less then tyrefitting gorillas do them!

Hmm, that a lot higher than I did mine yesterday.. I will have to go out and re tighten.

Thanks

[Bill_56]

Originally Posted by Stone Free

Thanks for the advice. I went to the main dealer & bought two new sets, worked out at £2.33 per bolt which I thought was very reasonable & it certainly improves the appearance of the V70 no end. Only one of the old rusty one's I cant shift, even with the help of WD40....so will see if the local garage can shift it.

Glad to see your concept of 'reasonable' agrees with mine. I know they're just bolts, but they're obviously good quality bolts, with a nice chrome plate, and I fully expected to pay a lot more than that considering the usual mark-up on spare parts.

As for the stuck bolt, quite apart from the fact that Tyre fitters may overtighten them, the Volvo specified torque of 140Nm is, in my opinion, far beyond the undoing capabilities of the car's supplied wheel-brace. At least for my puny arm-muscles.

So I have enhanced my boot toolkit with an extending wrench for removing the things, and a torque wrench for replacing them. But if you do that, make sure you have a decent quality 19mm socket as the first one I used (unkown origin) simply split in half when faced with an S60's wheel bolt.

BTW, the wheels (rears especially) have a habit of corroding themselves to the hubs, making removal very difficult. If yours haven't been off for a while, then don't be surprised if that is your next challenge.

[Georgeandkira]

Hello, I don't mean to sound like a nagging, auto class teacher, but...Rotating one's tires saves money and gives you the opportunity to inspect the soft, black rubber things so much of our net worth rides upon. Use a wire wheel on an electric drill to clean off any corrosion from wheel and hub. Follow that with a wipe of "anti-seize" on the hub as well as the bolts. You'll be glad you did. Also, when choosing a good, strong wrench for stubborn lugs; be sure to pick a quality 6 point socket, not a 12. Kira

[Bill_56]

Originally Posted by Georgeandkira

Hello, I don't mean to sound like a nagging, auto class teacher, but...Rotating one's tires saves money and gives you the opportunity to inspect the soft, black rubber things so much of our net worth rides upon. Use a wire wheel on an electric drill to clean off any corrosion from wheel and hub. Follow that with a wipe of "anti-seize" on the hub as well as the bolts. You'll be glad you did. Also, when choosing a good, strong wrench for stubborn lugs; be sure to pick a quality 6 point socket, not a 12. Kira

Agree with most of that, although opinions differ about anti-sieze on the actual bolts. I personally avoid that, the theory being that if the bolts tutn more freely, then they will stretch more before the target torque is reached, and thus will not be operating in the zone that Volvo intended.

Yes, I'm a fan of rotating too (front/rear swap of course, you shouldn't swap side=to-side). If you get it right. then all four tyres expire at the same time, and you can often negotiate a better discount for four at a time.