Aux belt area noise...

[pphilpot]

Originally Posted by cheshired5

Service life of the alternator pulley is 80k

Whip the belt off and turn the pulley clockwise.
Then, insert a screwdriver in the fins of the alternator and turn the pulley clockwise again. If you feel roughness, resistance or it doesn't turn at all, it needs changing.

Hi cheshired5 – I just tried this and there is only a slight amount of resistance when trying to turn it clockwise. Should it feel the same each way? I would have thought a slight amount of resistance was normal.

[edit] sorry, I should pay more attention to what I'm writing. With a screwdriver jamming the fins, it only spins clockwise with slight resistance, anticlockwise is locked [/edit]

Thanks.

[Coventry]

Originally Posted by pphilpot

With a screwdriver jamming the fins, it only spins clockwise with slight resistance, anticlockwise is locked

I can't remember the correct way it should spin and lock but that sounds right. I would add though, that despite a clutch pulley appearing to lock and spin correctly in the right direction doesn't mean that it isn't worn. Mine was working apparently prefectly but was still the culprit for a noise/judder at idle.

[cheshired5]

Originally Posted by pphilpot

Hi cheshired5 – I just tried this and there is only a slight amount of resistance when trying to turn it clockwise

That can be enough of a sign of early bearing failure.
Your noise symptoms are mild and early but unfortunately no-one is going to put a time on how long you'll get away with it.
When you fit your new pulley, you'll see what I mean by a smooth clutch action.

[pphilpot]

Originally Posted by cheshired5

That can be enough of a sign of early bearing failure.
Your noise symptoms are mild and early but unfortunately no-one is going to put a time on how long you'll get away with it.
When you fit your new pulley, you'll see what I mean by a smooth clutch action.

I'll order the part/tool this week, and see if I can replace it next weekend.

[Simon Jones]

Is it best to go for genuine Volvo pulley or would a pattern part like this do the job?

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/VOLVO-S60-...3D230954509076

Same supplier does a removal tool for under £10.

[rob27]

Did my freewheel pulley not so long ago so thought I'd share the experience lol

A good way of checking if the pulley is seized is to have someone rev the engine to around 3k and turn it straight off. Watch the fins/coils on the alternator, if they stop dead as soon as the engine does then the pulley is likely seized. If the continue to rotate then the pulley is working fine.

I changed my alternator pulley under the advice of Cheshired5. Mine was making a thrumming noise, the long run of the belt between the power steering pump and the AC compressor was flapping about at idle, the tensioner pulley was also vibrating.

See here for flapping belt

http://youtu.be/T5WnylHdtmA

I got the pulley removal tool for £10 and the pulley itself from eBay for £35. Since my aux belt had only been replaced very recently by a garage trying to fix the same issue, I re-used the old one, otherwise I'd have bought a new one. You'll also need a t60 torx bit of you haven't already got one. There are a couple of vids on YouTube on how to remove and replace the alternator, (which is the best way to access the pulley). Once you've you the alternator off all you need to do is pop the cover off the front of the pulley. Then insert the tool into the splined recess in the alternator spindle. I pu the alternator on the floor and got a mate to stand on it to hold it still. I used a breaker bar and a big adjustable spanner to turn the two sections of the tool in opposite directions and it came free with moderate force.

When fitting the new pulley it's advised that you tighten it up by hand as the turning force of the aux belt will nip it up as tight as it needs to be when it's refitted to the car.

Old pulley



New pulley



Cheshired5's video on aux belt replacment helped me understand how everything round that area worked.

http://youtu.be/DLyiYnUkQuE

Hope this helps.

[cheshired5]

Originally Posted by Simon Jones

Is it best to go for genuine Volvo pulley or would a pattern part like this do the job?

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/VOLVO-S60-...3D230954509076

Same supplier does a removal tool for under £10.

I went genuine because my logic was the pulley will last the full length (96k) of the aux belt and tensioner which was done at the same time so I can do everything in one hit.
The anticipated service life of a clutch pulley is 80k so a cheaper pattern part MAY need doing earlier than the next aux change.
Of course though, we're talking about cars that'll be 20+ years old and we may not even own them come the next change so a pattern part will do nicely for a few years then it's someone else's problem.
I hope I still have my S60 though so I'm keeping everything genuine in that area.

[cheshired5]

Originally Posted by Simon Jones

Same supplier does a removal tool for under £10.

You'll need a long slim torx counterhold to pass through the tool so factor that in if you don't have one.

[rob27]

This is the one I got, come to think of it it may have been slightly more than a tenner, comes with the counterhold bit already there. Could have sworn I paid less than that though!

http://pages.ebay.com/link/?nav=item...754378&alt=web

[DieselDoNicely]

Originally Posted by rob27

This is the one I got, come to think of it it may have been slightly more than a tenner, comes with the counterhold bit already there. Could have sworn I paid less than that though!

http://pages.ebay.com/link/?nav=item...754378&alt=web

I bought the Sealey set, in fact did mine yesterday. D5 V70 2003, take the alternator off the car, screw the special tool nut part ( the bit which the torxs bit goes though) into the pulley. Place the special tool nut in the vice, get a 600mm breaker bar and connect it to the torx 1/2 inch socket end and turn anti clockwise.

Off it comes, I didn't need to clout mine.

http://www.amazon.co.uk/Sealey-SX400...lternator+tool

DDN