940 Turbo randomly stalls and wont turn on

[ThermalShark]

It's a place in Finland and the gas is more specifically 95 E10.

[aardvarkash10]

The code you are getting could be a red herring. If it wasn't cleared when the MAF was replaced (presumably because the original had failed), the system would continue ot remember and spit out the code when asked.

[Laird Scooby]

Originally Posted by aardvarkash10

The code you are getting could be a red herring. If it wasn't cleared when the MAF was replaced (presumably because the original had failed), the system would continue ot remember and spit out the code when asked.

That really confused me Ash when you said that. I thought "Code? What code?" but checking through the OP added the code into the first post after i'd already replied the first time.

Getting back to this strange petrol, i hadn't heard of 95E or 95E10 so i looked online. Here's one of the things i found :

http://www.telegraph.co.uk/travel/tr...ench-fuel.html

Granted it's about France and not Finland but presumably as it's called the same and on the same general land-mass then it is the same. I'd suggest using the 98 stuff for two reasons, first lower ethanol content (so a lower water content) and second being a turbo will probably run a lot better on 98 anyway.
Then there are the reasons cited in the report. Luckily the Volvos have plastic fuel tanks anyway so won't be effected by that part of it but the fuel hoses etc could be effected and potentially cause problems.

I reckon the first thing will be to clear the fault codes and then drive it to see what happens then pull the codes again.

[ThermalShark]

Originally Posted by Laird Scooby

I reckon the first thing will be to clear the fault codes and then drive it to see what happens then pull the codes again.

I tried to clear the codes but it wouldn't let me. I know I did it right since it let me do it on port 6 but not on port 2 where the error shows.

[ThermalShark]

I changed the Lambda sensor and went on a test run. This time I just saw the RPM meter drop to 0 when going 50km/h, and I got the car running without the MAF trick I described. When on idle the engine is really shaky, don't know if this is normal.

The Lambda dashboard light is still stuck on and I'm unable to clear the codes (the light doesnt come back on after holding it like it's supposed to).

[ThermalShark]

Might want to add (incase its useful) that the way it shuts off is very sudden, it doesn't sputter to a stop but just instantly cuts out.

[Laird Scooby]

That really suggests the Crankshaft Position Sensor or maybe the ignition amplifier module. If you refer back to that other thread i linked to earlier, Ash did a test procedure in there for at least one of those components but if memory serves correctly there's a fair bit of information where to find the CPS, change it etc.

I no longer own anything with a B230 engine and didn't have any troubles with the CPS when i did so i have no photos or anything i could definitely say "it's here" with but i did find this on youtube :

https://youtu.be/hMdot4GK_24

Also this one which is probably more useful for you :

https://youtu.be/wgojsj5qHZg

Having watched the video, i'd suggest before you start get a length of string, wire, fishing or strimmer line or similar and tie a loop on one end. Drop the loop over the end of the string/wire/line to form a noose and when you remove the CPS from the bellhousing, slip the noose onto it and tighten so when you pull the sensor out with the cable, the string/wire/line runs in place of the sensor cable. Transfer the wire/string/line onto the new one and use that to help pull the new one into position.

Apparently this is the new one you'll need if that is the problem :

https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/vol...780-940-271949

I've used FCP a few times now, excellent service, delivery and so on. Also their prices are (usually!) much better than most other places but feel free to shop around if you have another supplier or if someone else can suggest a better price.

[ThermalShark]

I changed the CPS and I didn't manage to stall it on the test run, however the engine still runs rough when on idle. At the start of the run the RPM needle did odd drops for a split second then got back up but the engine revs didn't seem to change with the drops of the meter.

We tried unplugging each spark plug wire one at a time when the engine was idling, and on the cylinder at the far front the running didn't really change, though the plug did spark and the cylinder was getting gas.

Truly a mystery.

[Laird Scooby]

Have you tried clearing the fault codes since changing the CPS? If you read all of that other thread the guy on there had both problems, CPS and MAF/AMM so it's possible to have both.

Not saying that is your problem, just mentioning it.

[ThermalShark]

Still unable to clear the codes.